how do i squeeze a little more power out of my 3.0 5sp....for cheap...any trick of such...got a k&n and exhaust..dont wanna do headers. anything ?

 

nothing.... k and n wont even do anything.

 

get a 3.4

 

it seems my 3.0 has more balls that the 3.4 in my dads 4runner though...and i know k&n dont do nothin...it was a freebie

 

i was just being a smart ass. there isnt much you can do.

 

If you can't get a drop more power from a AM muffler, cut the thing off at the cat. I'll swear by it.

 

You gotta be kidding me, your 3.0 doesnt even make over 200hp/200tq (150/180), the 3.4 makes 190hp/220tq.. that extra 40/40 is alot of power..

 

how much you wanna bet the runner with the 3.4 is an automatic? that could explain a little of that

 

wont matter, you still loose power at the wheels with the manual 3.0 and its still gonna be less then the loss of power from the 3.4 auto.

 

Exactly, your losing way to much power at the wheels..

 

To actually answer your question to get more pep out of your rig for not much cash you can:
1.lean out your afm
2.pots mod for iat and ect
3.bypass throttle body coolant hose
4.remove any and all excess weight from the vehicle
5.disable emissions equipment (egr, pair, catalytic converter)
*****not intented for use on pollution controlled vehicles*****
6.advance ignition timing
7.route cold air to filter
8.wrap exhaust and headers
9.wrap intake pipe
10.cooler t-stat
11.disable power steering/ac
12.use synthetic oils in transmission/differential/engine
13.install engine oil cooler
14.electric fan
15.basic maintenance items you may have neglected (plugs, distributor cap/rotor, plug wires, etc...)

Thats all I can think of right now.

The reasoning behind his '90 3.0 std cab being faster than the 3.4 4runner is weight. The 4runners have at least 1000 lbs on the early pickup trucks.

 

good luck

 

Do you have stock 4.10 gearing, or even 4.56? 5.29 gears would make a big difference. Otherwise the 3.0 isn't worth spending money on.

Robb

 

I tired to squeek out hp from my 3.0. Headers, new exhaust, intake. Not real impressive. The headers made more noise than HP.

I dropped in a 1999 Tacoma 3.4 2 months ago. That's what I'm talking about. It will lay down 20' of rubber from both 31" back tires on dry concrete street and be ready to hit second. I drive around town in 3 gear cornering without downshifting. I can do stop and go traffic in second gear no sweat or third gear if I am a little easy on the clutch. I got 14-18 MPG with the 3.0, with the 3.4 I get 17-21 MPG.

1995 4Runner 5 speed 4:56 gears. I have installed Stock Toyota tubular exhaust and matching tubular crossover from 2002 3.4. Now it is very torqy but still fast to 100 MPH. This is fine for me because I don't normally 4x4 more than 100 mph. lol

Go ahead a try the things listed above, but if you want real power that is always there put in a 3.4 or regear the 3.0.

 

ditch the k&n and get an $10 adapter plate for the MAF, this way you can remove the entire airbox and run a 3" cone filter right off the end of the MAF. helps the high end a bit.

 

The tbody coolant hose is there to pre heat the fuel correct? Does disconnecting it make a noticeable difference?

 

The t-body coolant hose is there to heat up the throttle butterfly valve, to prevent it from icing in extreme cold conditions. Does disconnecting it make a noticeable difference or not on the 3.0 I cannot say, I have yet to do so myself. The LS1 crowd has seen a 5 horsepower at the wheels difference, yet their engine is quite a bit more efficient than the 3VZE. You may be hard pressed to notice a difference with a few of the aforementioned steps, but the combination of them with supporting mods does add up. One of the main focuses of the list is to keep your engine running as cool as possible and your intake charge as cool as possible, allowing you to run more timing advance.