lol, i got a little heat awesome and sad for me at the same time you got this to work. im working on the exact same thing i thought you had dropped this, and i was going to be the first to do it, oh well i can tell that its the 3vze block from the pics, got one one a stand right now. i notice that you dont have the timing belt on yet, and from what ive discovered, this is the somewhat tough part. if youve figured it out, cool, if you want some advice let me know. but basically from what ive found out, you should have to run the entire 3vzfe timing belt system. also, i have a 3vzfe ecu, and should have the electrical wiring supplement manual shortly, so i might be able to help on the wiring part. but in response to your post, unfortunatly the 1mzfe heads are not a direct bolt on. most everything matches(water jackets a bit off but not to bad) but the oil drain holes are way off. each head has 2 oil drain holes on the outside of the heads, but on the mz series, the rear most hole is in a different posistion than the vz series block. there may be away around that, but would be some work.

 

What are you guys planning on doing with the distributer?

 

My thoughts as well... Putting a cap and rotor on during routine maintenance might be a bit of a challenge if it were sticking through the firewall. Not to mention keeping the stock heater fittings and controls.

I'm thinking it would have to be relocated to a custom fabbed bracket on the front, driven through the cam cover by the cam sprocket. Or, go with a DIS system and use a crank trigger / cam trigger for timing.

 

This ignition system hasn't been addressed fully yet, but I am going to put it on the back of the head where it is on the 3VZ-FE stock. If you think about it, the engine sits alittle bit forward because of the cross-over pipe. I'm going to recess the firewall in a way that I can change the distributor for routine service. You can put the ignition on either head. If all else fails, I'll do a crank trigger or something.

As far as the timing belt goes, I'm open to your thoughts. I was planning on using the 3VZ-FE timing belt.....the water pumps are very similar and I should be able to make it work. I think that I need to get the timing belt covers from a 3VZ-FE though. I have been looking at that before I go any further with that.

As far as wiring, I'm going to use the stock 4Runner wiring harness. The injectors are the same size, so it should all work out. I might get a check engine light though without using a cold start injector. I guess we'll see, but it should all work out fine.

That's some good info about the MZ heads though. It was just a thought that I hadn't looked into. I just want people on this board to think about things more. Someone turbos a 3VZ it's like the world has come to an end.......someone does it on a 5VZ and it's cool. The issue with the 3VZ is the cross-over pipe for the most part. Without that, it's a very strong engine.

 

i was most likely going to run stand alone ignition. most likely megajolt lite jr. allowing me to run ford edis-6

 

Let me know how that works out. I read into it and am curious about this myself. Accel makes point eliminators that would solve alot of the problem with a stock ignition in this engine. Too bad they don't make them for Toyotas.

How far along are you in this project??

 

Does anyone know anything about the Pertronics Ignitor? Could I use one of them on this project? Would I need a different ignition module or could I use a stock module and coil?

 

well actually a little ways off. i decided to just rebuild the short block thats in the garage, unfortunatly my slipping clutch is pushing up the time table on the engine swap. once i get the spare engine rebuilt and in the rig, the one thats coming out will be the test engine. i was planning on trying megajolt on the stock 3vze, after is broken in.

 

i agree, but ill be honest, i dogged on the 3vze at first, mainly because of fuel consumption (its hp and tq per liter #s are close to a 5vzfe) but i did diss the motor some, but after some searching, i realized that its not that bad, just needs some tweeks(well maybe alot, but should be fun
1.cross over pipe is ÅÅÅÅ, dumps all the passenger bank thermal energy into cylinder #6= probably why #6 is prone to burning exhaust valves. headers will fix that.
2. angle of exhaust valves in head(angled towards intake) is not so great, causes the exhaust gasses to make a sharper turn to exit the head=more heat dumped into exhaust valves and port(helps contribute to burned exhaust valves, and maybe overheated cylinder heads=blown head-gaskets, who knows, but it sucks for flow and there's no way to fix it im going to ceramic coat the exhaust port from the valve back to help fight it.
3. cross drilled mains to provide full time rod bearing oiling, should eliminate the chance of rod knock. and probably increase oil pressure a tad with a relief valve spring mod
4. im going to do a basic port job, nothing crazy just good street/strip head prep(3angle valve job, probably manganese valve guides if enginebuilder has any left)
5. might, oh hell i know im going to, play with combustion chamber shape. again nothing crazy, hopefully i dont ÅÅÅÅ that up.
6. modified plenum.
7. maybe oversize valves, i dont know if these will really be beneficial with stock cams, but im going to run some #s to be sure. they are not very expensive from enginebuilder, and id have brand new valves, so i might put them in regardless.
8. probably get the stronger rods that engine builder has. im missing one in the short block i got, and when u factor the time and money to prep the stock rods correctly, id rather spend the money on stronger units.

that's the main modifications im going to make on the rebuild, i decided to do this first as the truck is making me! and i can get everything from one source fairly economically(rebuild kit-385,rods 210,o/s valves-70, i think the manganese valve guides were 30-40 and then just a water pump, and machining costs. i think i can do it all for about 1000-1300, depending on how much machining costs are and other little stuff(replace all hoses and crap like that while im at it) and i think i can hit 180-200hp with stock cams and programmable ignition and fuel. although i will start with completely stock fuel and ignition, go to standalone ignition first(megajolt) then fuel if needed or i can afford it!

 

dan, here is what ive seen on the timing belt situation. first, i am basing this of of these pics, so not saying im correct, but i think im close. from what ive seen and read, the main problem is the timing belts are different between the 2 engines(different lengths) because of cam spacing, and idler differences. from what ive seen, to make it work, the best way would be the entire 3vzfe timing belt system. belt, both idlers, backing plate, and cover. the problems is see, is that it would appear that on the 3vzfe, the upper idler is bolted to the very top of the block, or lower down on the lower plenum than it is on the 3vzfe. if it is indeed in the block, i dont know if the 3vze block could be modded to work as the webbing in the v of the block is taller and to a point on the 3vzfe, where the 3vze is flat, and lower. if the bolt hole is in the lower plenum, should be no worries. the second problem is the lower idler. the 3vze lower idler appears to be much higher up than the 3vzfe, and maybe the 3vzfe lower idler(which is hydraulic) maybe bolts onto the oil pump. you might have to use the oil pump from a 3vzfe, but ill bet money(not much, im broke that the oil pumps are interechangable. i believe the water pumps are exactly the same, the only difference being the water inlet cover, 3vzfe points right when looking at the front of the engine, but i believe the inlet cover is interchangalble between both(both secure with 3 bolts that "appear" to be in the exact same places. but again, im guessing that the 3vzfe belt, both idlers, oil pump(but use 3vze pickup as it picks up toward the back of the block,see pic below), tensioner, backing plate, and front cover should do the trick. heres some pics that im basing this off of. brad
3vzfe

3vze

3vzfe

3vze

 

SO where does the cooland come out on the fe system? Seems like you basicly need both complete engines to make it work.

 

well, like I have always said.....this is a good project for a rebuild. If you just want to swap in an engine for more power and be done with it, go with the 5VZ-FE swap. However, when finished with this project, it will be more reliable than a salvage 5VZ-FE because it will be basically a new engine. Sure you can rebuild the 5VZ, but then you would have way more into that kind of a project.

BUT, to answer your question...I have no idea where the 3VZ-FE water outlet is.....on the 5VZ-FE it's in the intake riser and that is where it would be on this project. You don't use the 3VZ-FE intake, you use the 5VZ-FE intake. If you use the one from the 3VZ-FE, it'll put the throttle body facing the firewall at about a 45degree angle. This can be done, but would make a really sharp bend in your intake making it very restrictive.

 

anything new?

 

I'd really like to hear how this is going. any news?

 

I apolgize for this thread dying out over time with no resolve. The engine is sitting in the same spot as in the pictures. I work 48+hrs a week and go to school 16hrs. I haven't had time to work on it and since it's not a daily driver, it's taken a back seat. I was thinking about this the other day and decided that I'm going to try and make someheadway after finals. Lets all keep our fingers crossed.

 

I'm really interested in hearing how you make it work. My parents have a camry that they are looking to retire in the next year or so and I could pick it up cheep. I'm planning on using megasquirt for my current build so removing the dist might not be that bad afterall.

 

Alright, I ordered a few small parts this week. Maybe that'll get me rolling on this over my break between semesters. I looked at that megasquirt some and it seems to be an awesome idea. Not sure if it will help my distributor issue or not, but I need to read more on it. It'll help out in the long run if I supercharge it.

Anyway, I'm shooting to have the engine at least back in the Runner by the end of December. Maybe that will get things going to get this complete. We'll see........school is expensive.

 

With MS you can run EDIS (ford IIRC) and not need a dist at all. There is a guy on the boards who has done an MS instal on a 3vzfe that he dropped into a MR2. I really like all I read about MS but its the initial learning curve that really takes some research. It'll be a while till I start on that.

 

So I've done some fast reading and found something that said you can use the EDIS system alone. Is this true? Could I use the EDIS system for the timing and the stock ECU of the EFI? From what I was reading, it made it sound that way. That would solve my issue and make this swap very easy to duplicate by someone else.

I do like the MS system though. Might be something to upgrade to later when I jump the engine up with a supercharger.

So does anyone know about the EDIS system?

 

I don't really think the stock ecu is up to the task. My opinion only but I think it runs lean in certain circumstances with increased flow. Plus how would it control the timing of the EDIS system? MS is cheep and you won't be the first to do it, I'd go MS.