LiveCountryWorkCity

So my 1992 Pickup 22re has been giving me some problems lately. It has a missfire to it, when it first started happening I changed distributor cap, wires, and plugs. Did help, so I checked compression, got about 130-150 in each one so thats fine. I did a timing check, that was also fine. Now Im working on checking the vacuum hoses but need a better diagram of the hoses and which each one is.
Dose anyone have a idea on what the problem could be? Anything would help at this point.

yayfortrees

130 to 150 PSI is not great. In fact, I wouldn't say that's fine. It should be a minimum of 150, should be closer to 170 when everything is tight. With a difference of 20 PSI from one cylinder to the next, I would be checking rings, valve clearances, etc.

rangerruck

try the old standby first; Seafoam treatments. 2 treatmenst, rest of it down the tank, then recheck everything. I like to suck my seafoam in through the master brake cyl hose, but you might like another place; one easier to get to, or more flexy.

LiveCountryWorkCity

Seafoam? Never heard of it untill now, but Ill give it a try (Well if I can find it) Thanks,

rangerruck

go to the searchbox and put in seafoam treatment, and you will see lots of responses. Basically, warm up your truck first, or car, to normal temps; pull the brake booster hose, or some other vaccuum into the top of the plenum hose, suck in 6 oz. just fast enough to make the engine cough, but not stall out. as soon as done, kill the enigne keys quickly, or get someone to sit in the seat, and kill the engine as soon as done. let sit for 15 mins, and then crank back up, with the hose just sliglthy back on. you then get in and rev the engine up and down; for about 5 minutes, clouds of smoke will billow out the back, VERY HUGELY!!! when the smoke starts to die down, redo the above treatment, and repeat above steps.
when done, hook hose all the way back up, and put in last 6 oz into the gas tank, all done. You will immediately notice a pickup, and jump off the line, and throttle response, like you have never known it to be. you may also notice , while doing this, a lot of sludge/goo/moisture coming from the tailpipe. You may wanna treat with another can, as this will indicate it is cleaning out your exhaust pipes and CAT, which usually means your CAT is full of crud...

toyota4x4907

FSM compression specs: max- 171. min 141. No more than 14 PSI difference between cylinders. Did you do the compression test correctly? Did you have the throttle propped open to WOT? Try putting a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder through the sparkplug hole. If it changed, most likely you have bad rings. If it doesn't, then probably valve seats, carbon build up on one or more of the valves not allowing them to seat properly, etc. Which cylinders had what PSI?

What is the misfire like? A stumble? An actual misfire where one or more cylinders don't fire?

LiveCountryWorkCity

Will redo compression test tomorrow. But ya its like a stumble, the engine shakes/stumbles a idle and when you start reving it a bit. If you rev it a lot the engine stops shaking but dosen't sound right, and once you go from a high rev to idle it almost stalls out. I also tryed putting blocks in front of the the front wheels and given it. When it was working fine it would spin the back tires and just drive over the blocks, now it just bogs and almost stalls.

mattaway

Any CEL codes?

LiveCountryWorkCity

If I remember right I got a 12, which I think has something to do with rpm. And I also got a 42 which I think is the speed sensor, which makes sense cause my speedo stopped work a while back.

mattaway

I actually just fixed that problem with my truck... I tried everything, and finally figured out the igniter or "ignition control module" was bad.... Not saying that's you problem, but it's a start. My truck would die if you moved the grey wire on the top of the igniter.

It's a $200+ part, so don't rush out and buy one, make sure that's your problem first.

Hope that helps...

Kiroshu

Check coil. Sounds like the famous toyota ignitor to me. (any haynes or chiltons manual will tell you how to check the ignitor and coil for resitance with an OHM meter) If its out of spec at all its bad and needs replacing. With those compressions the 22re will fire fine.

CrazyEye

My work truck had a misfire to it, and was surging like you are saying. Its a ford though. I checked the plugs and found one was running lean. Linked it back to a faulty injector. Replaced injector and all is good now.

LiveCountryWorkCity

So finally got a around to redo my compression check and I got, #1-150 #2-150 #3-160 #4-155, but did find that #1 psi would go down by its self slowly without me letting it out of the gauge. As well I found that when I pulled out the four spark plugs that #1 was clean and the rest were a bit black.
So I looked at my injectors and I think my #1 is leaking pressure.

Oh and I used that seafoam stuff, holy smoke, and dirt that came out. It helped a little but not much.

yayfortrees

The PSI leaking out of the gauge would have to do with the gauge, not the cylinder. More than likely, the valve core is coming loose, but it could be the hose or any connection on the gauge. Those compression numbers sound a lot better.

Looks like it's time to take the others advice and check that ignitor. Do you have an ohm-meter? You will need it to diagnose. That and your trusty manual.

rangerruck

why would plug 1 be clean? should it not be a slight blackened , like the
others?

LiveCountryWorkCity

So it was a really long time before I got to work on my truck again.

But did a bunch of stuff today, I removed the intake today to get to my injectors. Turns out my injectors look pretty clean. Dose anyone no how to clean injectors when there out of the truck.
So when I pulled it all apart I found the plug on the first injector wasn't getting power and the plug on the 4th injector was really dirty.
I'm pretty sure when I fix that it'll be good to go.

LiveCountryWorkCity

Oh and that would be why the first plug was clean. It wasnt getting any fuel to burn.

hilandfrog

I believe they are one of those parts to be sent in....

I used RC engineering, took a few days and it was right around $100 including shipping.

Repo

Kiroshu

If that #1 plug was just about "clean" sound like an injector.... THey make testers for injecters but thats prob what it is. You can take it out and see if its damaged. You said they look clean? No damage...? Hmm No power to Injecter #1? You may need to start tracing wires... Get some electrical contact cleaner and try cleaning the plugs and see if it helps.

LiveCountryWorkCity

Ya the first injector plug dosen't get power, the pin inside isn't any good cause when you test it lower down its fine. Going to get some new pins for the plug.