I have a friend who is the Sales Manager for Toyota, I got a deal on em... checked that ground, nothing... I am truly stumped

and yes, 5btdc with the jumper

 

one other thing I can suggest and I have seen it a few times. Check the crank pulley/balancer groove, it should line up with the key way, if it does not, your gonna need a new crank pulley. If it's not lined up then your timing will be off.

 

ok, so the marks are on the pulley and where else? I am trying to have this thing running like it was before, by monday.

 

both would be on the pulley. Here is a recent thread.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...-right-243169/

 

If that is not it you can try having a friend start the truck and you can push the flap of the maf (part on top of the air box) open when starting the truck. It will turn on the fuel pump and send a signal to the ECM for fuel injection to work. You might also try looking up how to test it to. And if there is Any leaks in the intake from maf to throttle body it will not work corectly or at all. can you start it with carb clean?

 

Truck wont start with carb clean, just put on the new hoses or ehatever you want to call them from.the maf.to.the throttle body..

Just thinking about it, do our trucks have a cam sensor?

 

If it won't start with carb cleaner, that means you're not getting spark (most likely) ....or compression (less likely).

 

Holy geezus...did you replace the injectors without even testing them? Now I remember why I unsubscribed from this thread back on page 2. Replacing parts for the fun of it is going to get you NOWHERE. How much have you spent on new parts so far? No offense, but I bet you could have paid someone who knows what they're doing to look at it for ya by now.

 

No cam sensor, they are pretty stupid compared to todays stuff.

The distributor times everything just like the old days.

 

Check if there is spark at the coil. Also make shure you have power and ground to the coil.

 

My money would be on a leak between the AFM and the throttle body. The AFM is the most important sensor on the entire engine, but surprisingly only a few posters mentioned this. The rest sent your off troubleshooting things that would not prevent your car from starting and idling. If the "door" on AFM doesn't open far enough your fuel pump will not turn on. I'd recommend cutting the silicone and removing the lid on the AFM. Manually move the AFM arm with the ignition on. You should hear your fuel pump turn on when you move it far enough. If that works, have someone try starting it while you look and the AFM lever. It should move a good amount, not just a little bit. If it's still starting and dying then go ahead and try holding the AFM just past where it was moving when you were cranking the engine and see if it improves . The amount of fuel that the car gets is directly related to the AFM reading. You've pretty much changed everthing else and your AFM is most likely not bad, but it's just not registering the correct amout of airflow so you engine is starving for fuel; which would explain why you can't give it any throttle. I just fixed a leak in my intake tubing and I was quite surprised that a small leak would cause such a major change in the way the car ran. Awhile back I changed my intake tubing to the crappy Spectre stuff they sell at Autozone. The kit I bought used plastic clamps to hold the tubing together. These plastic clamps suck ass and broke. I replaced the broken clamp with a proper rubber coupling with two hose clamps. It completely changed how the car runs. Good luck.

 

well, got it going, after 3 BAD ignition coils from schucks, I FINALLY got a good one and the darn thing fired right up and ran like a top, but now that someone stole my cat conv. I need a new one, anyone have one?

 

1.5 month, loads of $$$ to diagnose a bad coil LOL, a good mechanic with an oscilloscope will find that in 5 min,4 installing the osc 1 to take the readings.

 

Post #12 on this thread.

 

Actually the coil was replaced when I did the plugs cap rotor and wires, so it was a faulty coil, and if you read the thread, the truck had been running before the replacement of the coil,plugs,rotor and wires... Therefore it was a fubar'd pump/filter and a burnt out tps.

 

To everyone that offered HELPFUL suggestions, thank you! Def was a big help!

 

This is different from what you originally told me.

My reply was after seeing yours in the very beginning. So when you brought it to us, it wasn't running and that coil had already been replaced. And I said never trust the fact when you replace something electrical that it is good. If you had used a multimeter to check the coil as well as every other piece of electrical equipment you replaced (as helpfully suggested), you would have seen that it was bad during the testing. We tell you these things to help, I don't know why so many people do not use troubleshooting techniques before replacing stuff and testing new stuff to make sure it's good before using it.

Also having a hard time understanding with a bad coil how a timing light would work properly.