Just because it's a new fuel pump, doesn't mean the ecu or other components are operating that properly. This is why I had asked did you attempt to run it with the jumper installed.

 

if you're asking if I ran the truck with the fuel pump jumped, then, no.

 

Did you attempt to start it with it jumped?

 

no, i have not

 

have you tried removing the cat and running the truck? it could have been partially blocked before and now is totally blocked keeping it from running.

 

Okay, I only scanned the thread so I might have missed something, but I'll relate an issue I had with my 22 as advisement.

My truck was running fine, then developed a slight miss. Miss turned into barely running, finally truck dies and would not run. I had just replaced the injectors with reman's so I dismissed them as a cause. Turns out after weeks of head scratching and part$, my injectors were plugged solid.

I had filled the truck with fuel at a newly opened gas station and suspect I got a load of dirty fuel. When I found the injectors plugged, I cut my fuel filter open and found it was packed with fine powdery dirt. Same dirt I found clogging the injectors! The filter was only about 2000 miles old, but it was a cheap Autozone filter. I suspect bad (dirty) fuel plugged the filter, but the pump overpowered the filter causing it to burst internally and send the silt to the injectors and plug them up solid. I cleaned the fuel rail, drained and flushed the tank and lines, and replaced the injectors again. problem solved.

I might suggest you pull the injectors and have them professionally reman'ed. I understand witchhunter is good at this. (I used injectorwarehouse and they actually warrantied the injectors even though it wasn't their fault).

edited to add: To me it sounds like fuel starvation. Even though your fuel pump is putting out the correct pressures, the fuel might not be getting past the injectors...

Just sayin...
John

 

John, thanks for that, how do I test Injectors to see if they're clogged..

Also, anyone know how to test a distributor?

 

test a distributor for what? shaft end play?

i reckon you havnt replaced your cap, rotor, wires, etc. im re-visiting this post to see if you made any progress. you havent. you've gone backwards.

your waiting for a magic answer. its not there, the best thing to do, is READ. quit asking and just READ. as i said before, BUY A BOOK! HAYNES, CHILTON, TOYOTA i dont care! the questions you ask are silly and irrelevent because you are UN-EDUCATED IN THE PROPER WORKINGS OF THE 22RE AND ITS ACCESSORIES. LEARN FIRST, ASK SECOND.

ALSO, WHEN SOMEONE SAYS TO TRY SOMETHING, AND IT SOUNDS LOGICAL, TRY IT. IT MIGHT FIX YOUR TRUCK. YOU HAVE NO IDEA WHERE YOUR TIMING IS SET. I BET YOUR TPS IS INCORRECTLY ADJUSTED, AND A VOICE JUST TOLD ME THAT YOURE INTIRE TRUCK IS ASS BACKWARDS IF YOU'VE BEEN WRENCHING ON IT FOR 5 YEARS.

TNRABBIT SOUNDS TO ME LIKE YOUR BEST SHOT. EGR. THE BOOK YOU BOUGHT WILL PROPERLY EXPLAIN HOW TO TEST.

UNTILL YOUR NEXT COMPLAINT: GOOD DAY

 

Someone pissed in his cheerios this morning.

I HAVE A BOOK AND USE.IT FREQUENTLY. Care to see? Before being an ass, make sure you have all facts.. Thanks.

 

The only difinitive way to tell if they are actually plugged is to pull them out and look at them. You can check for power using a noid light, and/or you can use an automotive stethiscope to listen for a crisp click, but that may not tell the whole story. There is a very fine mesh screen at the inlet of the injector. They tend to get gunked up easily over the years. Best practice would be to pull them and send them out to be cleaned.

To answer your other question, ohm out the pick-up coil in the distributer and compare your readings with the FSM. Out of spec? replace. Cap and rotor just get replaced. They're cheap enough.

John

 

John thanks for that, I am going to start the tear down now

 

Put BRAND NEW OEM injectors into this piece, and still not working......

 

Once again, what dose the fuel jumper do when you put it in? What is your timing set at? And if you don't have a multimeter, I highly doubt your TPS is adjusted correctly.

Only thing in the distributor you can check is the air gap which isn't correctable. How have you checked too see if you have spark? By replacing plug wires, cap and rotor? How have you checked to see if you have fuel? By replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter? Your throwing parts at this thing and not testing ANYTHING. If you are, you aren't coming back here with your results.

Which book are you using? A haynes? A Chiltons? Both SUCK. Get yourself an FSM they are free and 100% better then those two stupid books.

 

Take the cat off the truck and respond with results please. This check will not cost you anything but maybe a half hour of your time. It will not hurt to try it.

 

Timing is set to 5btdc, I am gunna roll it in the garage and pull the cat off and see what that does

 

5btdc with the jumper right?

 

Ok pulled the cat, no start, put it back on, nothing, made sure the tps sensor was correctly positioned, with the multimeter etc, ran for a bit, then died, now wont restart

 

sorry bad post

 

thank you for the response. i am sorry it did not help. it might be in the higher rpm's for that problem. have you checked all the grounds on the motor especially the one on the intake? you might have a bad connection there. it controls your injectors add other sensors i believe. you can try cleaning it and making sure the bolt is tight.

 

Sorry this didn't help, but dude, you didn't need to spend that much $!, www.witchhunter.com would have done it for less than a c-note including shipping...

John