RoadRageRock

I un screwed the two screws on my airflow meter while it was running and it sparked and started to smoke now cel on and runs like ˟˟˟˟.
Its a 22re 91 toyota pickup please help any ideas thanks

Gevo

Search google for ' yotatech mass air flow sensor two screws' you wi find a few threads with people who did the same thing.

But if it started smoking, you may have damaged it beyond repair. But when I opened mine up it didnt look to sensitive,

scope103

You removed the screws that hold the connector to the case; with the connector loose you just broke the wires internally (hence the sparking). You probably have a diagnostic code, which you could use to estimate which wires are broken internally.

It may be possible to disassemble the VAF and re-solder (or replace) the broken wires, assuming that you didn't do more extensive damage. But since you removed the screws, with the engine running no less, this might be a task that is more than you want to take on. Consider getting a replacement VAF from a recycler.

PS: you don't have a mass air flow sensor. That's a different technology.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It does not even look like a MAF

If you have to ask what you did no doubt all ready over your head.

RoadRageRock

I put in new afm did not fix the problem now it wont go over 10mph with full trottle. pulled codes an got 22 24 31 41 put in new tps and still cel is on and pulling same codes tryed to clear codes by unhooking - cable on battery wont clear

scope103

Maybe I should ask what the problem (including codes) was BEFORE you broke the VAF?

Do those four codes have anything to do with the TPS? (Hint: one of them does: do you know how to check it? Two of them have to do with your "new" VAF.)

RoadRageRock

I had no codes befor it all went ˟˟˟˟ and yes code for tps and repaced no change

RoadRageRock

Could this have burt a relay or maybe my ecm iv checked my fuses and my ocr and all good

Gamefreakgc

Those wires went straight to the ECU with no fuses I think, so it's possible you might have short-circuited your ECU or other components... I think you might be out of luck man.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Fried is the technical term or melt down.

those ecu`s should be easy to come by.

not like the newer 3.4 ones.

scope103

If nothing was wrong before, why did you mess with the VAF?

While a damaged ECU is an outside possibility, if it were me I would just run the diagnostics in the FSM for each code. For instance, you have two codes relating to your "new" VAF. Only if the VAF (and the ECT sensor and TPS) all pass the diagnostics would I even think of the ECU.

RoadRageRock

How do i test it for right voltage

Darryl01088

Try replacing the MAF. ..that's where the problem started. I doubt you fried the ECU, they are more durable than you would think. I had a 92 with a 22re engine. I tried to take the MAF out to clean it and destroyed it. I put in an aftermarket unit from autozone and it ran fine for a year. Failed again car was basically undriveable, went and got another MAF and it ran great. Good luck

RoadRageRock

I put a new one in and same problem. Now im testing the ecm pinout for voltage need spec for them i really think my problem is it but just want to check it to make sure

jbtvt

I just finished packing and ECU out of a tundra for shipping and the conversation during was about how IMO the guy was wasting his money because of the dozens of times I've seen them replaced I've yet to see it solve anything. But if you're testing it you're taking the right steps at least. Who knows, maybe you'll be the first... They're easy to pull apart, see if there's any obvious shorts on the board.

RoadRageRock

I did take back plate off and did see a little spot that looked kinda burnt just a spot on the back of the main board but was super small not for sure

RoadRageRock

Could that one lil spot be my prob or would i be geting a code for my ecm

scope103

Sure. You might even be able to tell, if you were a top-notch electronic designer from the 1980s, and you had a lot of time. But if you were a top-notch designer, you wouldn't bother trying until you followed the FSM diagnostics for each code. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf

You can replace the ECM on the blind without following diagnostic procedures. I would guess your odds of fixing the problem that way is about as good as the odds that 1 million monkeys with typewriters could write the FSM.

Good luck!

RoadRageRock

Ok all fixed and running strong was my ecm one lil burt groung copper strip broke just took small peace of copper wire and put in the spot of burt area and soldered it and presto

Gevo

You are saying that it was a wire at the ECU that was burnt? Or a wire that goes to the ECU was burnt but somewhere in the engine bay?