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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

manifold bolts

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Old 01-15-2013, 08:23 PM
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manifold bolts

90 4runner
22re
5 speed
4x4
ac/ps

so i had to drill out some broken studs that were on the truck when i got it. replaced the manifold gasket, crossover tube gasket, and collector gasket.

stock manifold

put new studs in place of broken ones, lower front and rear studs.
did the job with the truck cold, didnt damage any threads what so ever, but now the nuts wont stay tight! torqued em to 33ft/lbs as instructed on the interwebs, and they dont stay tight. i refuse to use loc-tite,or anything like that. i did grease them a tiny bit when i put all of them back on. nuts only, studs went in dry. anyone have this problem?? its driving me insane. i im pretty sure by this time the gasket is destroyed cause of all the times ive had to do this.(three times in the past two weeks)

any help at all is greatly appreciated.
i love this truck and it runs great. this is just annoying. then again any vehicle with 236k miles on it and still runs like a swiss clock can have its occasional hiccups every once and again. it doesnt effect anything really, i think i can tell a slight difference in torque but thats about all. i know if it gets bad enough itll warp or destroy a valve. thanks again guys

tyler
Old 01-15-2013, 10:45 PM
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It's not unheard of to get the wrong parts in the right box, make sure they are metric studs and compare them with whatever you have left of the originals. Do they have any play, you may have damaged the head side threads. PO might have had them re-tapped, or added 'serts.

Grease and oil are not "anti-sieze", it might be as simple as cleaning them off, baked oil/grease is worse than loctite you can't torch or torque them loose.

You'll need to figure out if it is the stud or the nut loosening.

Try throwing some lock washers at it, if it already had some they just need replacing they're worn out and tired.
Old 01-15-2013, 11:12 PM
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Red face

Go to your Toyota dealer and get the all metal lock nuts .Made just for the exhaust studs:jessica:

Also their studs have a male torx on the head that makes them so much easier to install.

I locktite the studs and never seize the nuts.
Old 01-16-2013, 08:44 AM
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You are using real Toyota exhaust nuts, are you not? They have a distorted thread to lock them on. They don't cost much. Conventional nuts, torqued to 33 with lock washers and Loctite, or whatever will never stay tight.

If you are using the correct nuts, you may now need to replace the studs since you've backed them off so many times (the distorted thread in the nut pushes some of the metal on the stud).

This is a high-temperature location; I would not use Loctite, and certainly never any oil or grease.
Old 01-16-2013, 09:24 AM
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are the studs in tight? are the nuts comming loose or the studs backing out causing the nuts to come loose?
Old 01-16-2013, 09:45 AM
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It's definitely the nuts coming loose. The studs are staying tight. No play in studs. Werent previously drilled and re tapped. So lock washers won't help?
Old 01-16-2013, 09:51 AM
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The studs from Toyota have a loctite compound on them. The all metal lock nuts from Toyota work great. I just picked up some yesterday. $1.98 for the studs, $1.81 for the nuts. Although I think I have some stripped threads in my head, which was the cause of the whole stud missing... Helicoil or LCE Perf. complete head...? Hmmm.... That's todays question....
Old 01-16-2013, 11:24 PM
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Red face

Thread locker comes in a bunch of different specs and brand names

There are high temp versions that work quite well.
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