Yes, they can be cleaned. But that's not the only problem that happens to them. There are a pair of roller bearings that support the flapper vane that corrode and stick over time. The good news is that they can be replaced. The entire AFM comes apart actually. It's not too hard to do, but it's a job not for the faint of heart. I completely rebuilt mine for the cost of a couple of bearings and some time. Looks and works like new with no problems. Woot!

At $180 replacement cost for an AFM, the MAF conversion is looking better and better.

 

How would one replace said bearings?

 

You have to take the AFM *completely* apart to get at them. It requires some skill soldering to remove the circuit board and you need to make sure you mark everything so that it goes back exactly where it was.

As it turns out, the bearings are the same as the ones used in roller blades. Just maket sure to get the all stainless steel, sealed versions.

 

I would run a 20 year old OEM maf anyday over a New Napa unit but thats just me.....

If anyone is looking for good cheap used MAFs I have them...

 

This must be some shade tree rite of passage... I did this recently and is a great example of why should SLOW DOWN when you're under the hood. Take off the harness retainer clip, not the screws. I fell for the screw trap and ripped it out, panicked, of course truck wouldn't start. Mt. Goat was on par with solder advice just be careful to not over heat the board. I'm sure you could melt through it by over doing it. Also, if your solders hold and it still won't turn over, check your fuse box! I almost ordered a new afm until I realized I had simply blown a fuse. Started right up still running good. Here's some pics to illustrate pre fix and post fix. Short wire to closest prong and long wire to furthest. I had no soldering experience prior. Easy.

 

Nice job! Lol 7 year thread resurrection too!

 

if you are not experienced in soldering, it may be best and cheaper to have an electronics shop repair it real quick. grab a box knife and take the top off first. you aren't gonna screw anything up cutting the silicone off now. the one long terminal goes on the wire to the sweeper arm, and the other 2 short to the sensor to the left, otherwise the others just solder on, except the 2 on the left: those are pushed together by the arm.

 

btw: this afm is an adaptation of a much older bosch unit used on old german cars. that little 1/2" cap on top used to be a bypass air adjustment.

 

Thank you so much, I searched for about half hour and this is the best, most informative post on this topic. Nice!

 

I just took screenshots so I can try soldering mine back together tomorrow!! Haha.

Then put epoxy in each screw head!
Stupid ass screws instead of rivets🙄

 

FYI. I had to get a new one, and got one at Napa for around $150. Beware there is a 50 buck core charge.

 

I fell into the trick when trying to clean the throttle body and came across this MAF thing, decided to take it out to clean as well. When worked on previous VW, the MAF is just taken out with this similar two screws, then on this car the whole thing just screwed up. I figured out if you don't have a soldering gun/iron, the middle three contact can be bent towards the PCB board to ensure the contact (pic3), solder is better (pic4). It's on a 92 Lexus ES300.

 

Does anyone have an image of how this is supposed to look?

 

I ended up just buying a new one. Solid wrenching session. Really leaving the garage with my head and spirits held high.

 

In your case I'm pretty sure the fix is simply soldering those pins to those pads right where they sit. Then you will have a viable backup for when that new one fails. Hang onto it. They are not so easy to source as they were when this post originated!
Speaking of, where did you get your new one?

 

Thanks! I found one on eBay