taikowaza

I tried to clean the MAF sensor today and I screwed up really bad.
I took off the cable, unscrewed the two screws, and pulled, gently.
something 'snapped' inside...and I ended up with what you see here.
Please tell me my next course of action. worst case scenario- a new MAF costs $360. I cannot believe my stupidity...live and learn though and I hope that I can fix it.

What did I do wrong? other than being a total &%^^^$!
if I can recover from this mistake, and have a clean sensor to boot, that would be awesome.
3vze, k&n FIPK.
thanks a lot everybody for your help-
T
1992 SR5 3.0 v6

taikowaza

another pic of the damage

Snorkeldepth

You're not the first . . .

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...hlight=maf+afm

I haven't touched my AFM yet . . . . . don't have the courage yet.

mt_goat

Oh boy, you ripped it off good. At least when I did that it was still connected in a few spots I still can't believe Toyota put screws there, of course people are going to think that the screws should be removed to take the plug out.

Have you pryed off the top to see the damage inside yet? Got nothing to lose now (except your time) by trying to resolder it back together. How are your soldering skills? It helps if you use a small soldering iron with a pointed tip and NOT one of those big ass solding guns. Get some fine solder at Radio shack too. I'd recommend some thin .032 dia, 60/40 Rosin-core solder. Don't let your solder cross over to the tracks next to the one your working on. If you're an old goat like me, you will need reading glasses or an optiviser (best thing ever, http://www.icon.co.za/~numisphil/pichtm/Optiviser.htm) to see what you're doing. If you get a big glob of solder that crosses over to another track get some solder removing braid and try to remove it.

My repair has lasted about 2 years now with no problems. IIRC I soldered one torn foil strip back together in the middle.

taikowaza

mountain goat thanks for your help.
some questions-
there are 3 CABLES still inside the MAF, where do they plug in?
so, the 3 foil strips have to be soldered...
and the cables have to be attached again.
dude what ^&*% design by Toyota, why the hell are screws there when if you remove it it rips the circuit board in half??
and, how the hell could I have cleaned my sensor anyway? once I take the top off, I will need silicone to put it back on again I guess?
also, can I ORDER a new circuit board?
waskilly mentioned that he had sourced a new OEM for cheap.
also, I can't get the FIPK off the MAF. I took off the clamp but it just won't budge.
before putting this back together at least I should try to clean the sensor (my goal in the FIRST PLACE!)
thanks GOAT!
T

if I want to order a new one from yotayard, what can I ask for? I don't need the whole MAF...just that board...does it come out?
and where is the MAF sensor located anyway?
and, while I have the top off, do you recommend turning the gears (rich/lean) like it says in the downey catalogue? now that I have U&*&@^@ it all I am feeling more adventurous.

mt_goat

I was able to tell what connection went where just by the way the pieces of the puzzle fit together, I guess no piece of foil rips excactly the same way Yes you will need some sensor safe RTV for putting the top back on.

I know it's almost like the Toy engineers were trying to set a trap for shade tree mechanics so they could sell more AFMs

I never cleaned mine, sorry I don't have all the answers.

I would try to find a used one from one of the many people selling 3.0 engines in the classified forum here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f107/

Don't try to buy just the board, just get the whole AFM so you can just plug it in and go.

If you have a 3.0 you don't have a MAF that needs frequent cleaning (especially with oily air filters), you have a spring loaded flap inside that moves open to measure the air flow.

I never tried changing the A/F ratio calabration either.

Godzilla

ya my buddy did this on his 92...pop the black top that has the silicon stuff around it...insert the connectors back in and screw it in, then solder away..it will take some time and alot of PATIENCE! youll know when its on right when the truck starts... also check the thing (not sure of the name ) that some use to adjust the afm to make sure it is where it should be. good luck...that sucked

05prerunner

dont have a clue how much diff. there is b/t 3.0 and 22RE but if you could use something out of it, there is a 22RE MAF on Ebay for only $12 so far w/no reserve. again, might not be of any use to you but IF you could use some of the inside parts it would be well worth that

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...QQcmdZViewItem

regularguy412

I've seen 3.0 AFM's on eBay for about $45 (and up). Just get the whole unit, if you don't get yours soldered back.

Mike in AR

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

You can get an aftermarket AFM w/ a LIFETIME warranty at a local auto parts place for a 1/3 of the OEM price. Ebay IMO for such things is hit or miss as to how long it will work. Buy it once and forgetaboutit.

LIQUID

when i did the afm mod bout 5 years ago, the gear sprung back on me so i put it where i thought it was. i hear a loud ping now and im sure it needs to be set back to stock area just dont know what that would be, maybe new afm would be a good idea but thats the least of my problems right now

taikowaza

WASKILLY IS THE MAN!!
yes, waskilly is the man.
I called NAPA autoparts and they have remanufactured, fresh clean AFMs, which correspond with part number 22250-65010
for $187.
DEAL OF THE CENTURY
i am picking it up today. I messed up, but who knows, a new one might improve my performance, and for a 1992 this is just what the doctor ordered. maybe a blessing in disguise.
thanks everybody for all your help. you ROCK
T

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I am the wabbit.

taikowaza

yeah!
hey any tips for when I install the new one?
(like...don't rip the board apart again?)
but...I can't get the old MAF off...it is in the FIPK tube and won't budge!
I can spin it...but can't for the life of me get it OFF!
what an adventure this is!
Oh...and by the way, all my mentions of a MAF should have been AFM. (this is a 2nd gen 1992 3vze afterall! oh yeah...never listen to Chilton's. should have them buy me a new one! check out their illustrations and instructions in their 4runner book. makes it look like taking out the screws in the AFM is ok.
hey...gotta blame someone!

Cebby

To get the AFM out of the K&N tube, I held mine in front of a torpedo kerosene heater to warm up the pipe a litle. Or do it on a nice hot day.

When cold, the K&N pipe has a death grip on the AFM.

taikowaza

totally. i can not get the maf out of the fipk at all.
I tried. would you recommend prying it off with a screwdriver>
I mean, I tried HARD to get it out, and at one point felt like there was a major flange or something caught in there...
I don't have a kerosene heater...any other thoughts? it was hot and sunny yesterday but no go. I get my new MAF tomorrow morning so I am gonna want to get it off pronto
thanks!
also, to install the K&N to the MAF,(other side, filter side) any issues>
thanks
T

regularguy412

Forgive me if you've already done this, but there 'is' a second tube directly beneath the main FIPK tube. It , too, has a circular band clamp on it. If you don't loosen it, you prolly can't get the bigger tube off. ( Don't ask me how I found out. I was pulling like heck, and then realized I had another screw to loosen)

Mike in AR

taikowaza

that ends well.
got the new AFM on there today, shiny new for 187 after I have my core back to Napa. seems to idle very well, started with no hesitation. this may have been a problem of mine re. idle!
feels good, the old one was covered with crud, so perhaps it was a good thing that I ripped it in half. I will never forget the feeling of pulling out those 2 screws and looking at a ripped circuit board. I could hear the KA-CHING$ in my head!

by the way- to get that FIPK off...I had to remove the secondary pipe near the throttle body...take everything out of the engine bay...put it on the ground with my feet on the old AFM...and pull with all my might. (no screws holding it on)..it just had a deathgrip on that AFM!

pwd

Thread resurrection time!... any way: I almost did this to my truck today, but I didn't pull it all the way out. If the truck starts up, is it ok? Also, can you actually clean the MAF on the 3.0?

mt_goat

Maybe, maybe not...mine idled just fine, but when I gave it gas it didn't go over 5 mph. BTW the 3.0 doesn't have a MAF, it has a VAFM and no there is usually nothing to clean on them since its totally sealed up. Usually only the flap can get dirty.