JEBSR5

OOPS, mean LSPV

Here's my theory.

Recently replaced rear wheel oil seal a few months ago and inspected brake shoes while there. Figured with 210k, they gotta be worn. Well, they look like they got about half their pad or more left, wow after 210K? They are the originals.

Here is my theory.

After years of sagging in the back, then maybe the LSVP needs to be adjusted to compensate. Well how about just replacing rear springs instead and that should raise it back to the correct adjustment.

I figure after sagging, all the brake bias has shifted to the front with little brake pressure to rear. The sag in back i not real bad as some I have seen, but it's down a little. Front seems high to me, though. I haven't taken any measurments, anyone know what they would be? I assume the best way to measure is between bump stops.

What do you think, my theory sound?

Tdubbs05

i actually had this exact same question/theory when i redid my rear suspension w/ the downey hd kit. the kit actually came with a lsvp bracket extended but since then i haven't been able to lock up my rear brake. someone told me that you have to have weight in the back to get the rear to sag a little, which opens the lsvp and allow the rear brakes to be applied, but i haven't been able to test it. even then i'm thinking i'd need a lot of weight in the back to bring down the down HD springs. The only thing i can thing of is adjusting the lsvp bar's height and see what happens. anyone else agree w/ that?

JEBSR5

Actually, I thought the more weight you put in back the more brake bias went to the front. I may have it backwards and if so, then that shoots my theory in the foot.


The reason I posted is that noticed when wet and turning with brake on, I have to be careful as too much brake makes front slide while turning and braking. This has gradually got worse. Tires got plenty of tread.

ChickenLover

The rear brakes are supposedly 'self adjusting.' In reality, they aren't. They need to be tightened up manually once or twice a year.

Tdubbs05

well the reason i thought i made sense that you need weight in the back was to help the car brake...you don't want ur front brakes doing everything when you're hauling something. and if you've got no weight in the back you don't want your rear brakes locking up and taking you for a ride.

but as much as that makes sense to me, don't quote me on it.

i haven't done much driving in the rain/snow/ice recently and i'm never hard on my brakes so i've never really noticed that, but it sounds like i'd definitely look into getting that lsvp adjusted to give the rear drums a little action. plus you could get a little rear anti-lock action...

jibs187

I'm not positive, but I believe the sagging would actually add pressure to the rear brakes. Same idea as a loaded down rear end. I recently added a 4" lift all around and I'm still trying to get my LSVP exactly right. As far as the front goes, from everything thing I've read over the years, if you measure from the top of a 15" rim to the fender it should be approx 13.5" - 14" for stock. If you've got wide tires it may bow out that measurement a little, but that's essentially where you want to be.

JEBSR5

That makes sense to me now that you explained it, but curious as to why the increase in front braking due to sag? HMMMM.



ChickenLover

I already tried that, I don't think any auto adjust brake mechanism ever works as you think it should. I suppose it depends on how many times you back up to kick them up.

Adjusted those each year as per my maintenace list for yearly to do's.


Another note:

Also started to notice if getting on brakes hard, there definately is a slight tire squeal in the front, no lock up though. So, I'm getting a lot of bias to the front.

All lines and fluids changed and air free. No change after flush.

Tdubbs05

good point about the sagging... you know what we need is someone to play with the bar height this weekend and see what works.

i'd be down to do it, but my runners in the shop...damn headgasket...
any takers?

JEBSR5

By that method I have 14" in the front and 11 1/2" in the rear. With 15" rims and with Michelin LTX 10.50 x 30, I think.

Jdizzydub

I read somewhere on this forum that you could drive in reverse down a hill or coast?..less than ten mph or so and engage the ebrake several times and this adjusts the brakes in the rear, granted that they are drum brakes. I did that after changing out leaking axle seals and shoes and it seems that they adjusted fine.