I am lost beyond words...

1994 Toyota Pickup, 22re engine

Driving home about a week ago, (after it took a couple tries to start) I was driving down the road, and it seemed like someone just shut off the fuel to my truck.

Replaced the fuel filter, it would crank, run for about a second, and then die.

Put old filter back on, same ole story.
Replaced MAF and cold start sensor (bc i noticed it broken) and same story.
Jumped fuel pump and same story

Pulled codes via paperclip method and got:

12
RPM SIGNAL-NO SIGNAL TO ECU FROM DISTRIBUTOR ("Ne" OR "G") AFTER ENGINE HAS BEEN CRANKED
--DISTRIBUTOR/CIRCUIT
--STARTER SIGNAL CIRCUIT
--IGNITER/IGNITER CIRCUIT
--ECU
--
13
SAME AS ABOVE BUT AFTER ENGINE HAS RUN AT 1,000-1,500 RPM
--DISTRIBUTOR/DISTRIBUTOR CIRCUIT
--ECU
22
WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL--OPEN OR SHORT IN WATER TEMP. SENSOR SIGNAL
--WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT
--WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR
--ECU
41
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL--OPEN OR SHORT IN TPS SIGNAL
--TPS SENSOR
--TPS SIGNAL/CIRCUIT
--ECU

Just trying to figure out your guys thoughts before I start buying parts... any thoughts helps at this point.

 

Did you verify proper operation of the fuel pump...?

Fuel pressure to the fuel injector rail..?

Does the engine operate on starting fluid...?

That code 22 is a pretty big flag. Possible coolant temperature sensor damaged/faulty..?

These EFI engines rely heavily on coolant temperature signal for proper engine operation.

Check wiring harnesses/connectors for damaged.

 

Did you verify proper operation of the fuel pump...?
When I installed the fuel filter my dad tried to start the truck and fuel poured all over me haha
Fuel pressure to the fuel injector rail..?
No idea
Does the engine operate on starting fluid...?
It ran for roughly 3 seconds after I pumped some starter fluid in it and then died out
That code 22 is a pretty big flag. Possible coolant temperature sensor damaged/faulty..?

These EFI engines rely heavily on coolant temperature signal for proper engine operation.
I replaced the cold start which is the one next to it, because I noticed it was broken. The other one hasn't look like its been messed with

 

"Runs for a while then quits" is commonly a sign of a problem in the VAF-COR circuit. This can be checked by jumpering Fp to B+.

But you've got an awful lot of codes; trying to start your truck without resolving them will be a long, costly waste of time. It could be as simple as knocking the connector loose on the temp. sensor when you replaced the CSI Timer Switch. Follow the procedure in the manual; this is easy to check.

A sudden failure like you described, plus the codes 12/13, sound like a problem with the distributor or igniter. Run the tests on the distributor. You can't test the igniter, so I'd leave that for last.

Stop. Take a deep breath. The manual gives the procedure for responding to each code, and "buying parts" is usually the last step. You don't want to be one of those guys ....

 

By a while I mean, it will start, run for a second, and then die lol

 

X2 scope103.

Re-check connections at Cold-start injector and Cold start-time switch.

-Make sure you didn't cross/swap their connections. They are both the same besides they are color coded.

 

The sensors that sit in water tend to get alot of hard water build up on them. Usuallly a good cleaning of the sensor and making sure the electrical connection is good will fix those issues. I put a dab of dielectric grease on my connector when reinstalling any electrical connection.

Check for air leaks, the AFM connected like others have mentioned.

Here is the FSM test for the igniter with the Key On.