Long-time Lurker Goes Public
01-13-2017, 08:44 AM
#21
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Here's what they (some of them?) mean: http://www.toyotareference.com/truck
01-13-2017, 09:07 AM
#24
There should be a paint code on the door-pillar sticker.
Here's what they (some of them?) mean: http://www.toyotareference.com/truck
Here's what they (some of them?) mean: http://www.toyotareference.com/truck
On my 86 there is the metal tag on the center of the firewall. This gives the paint code and trim level, but I've never ran across anything that says which decals it would have had.
In theory you can get a factory build sheet from the dealership, but I've not gone through the process. It might not contain the dealer add-ons.
My 2wd 94 is somewhere between the deluxe and sr5 trim level, the one thing that I recall clearly is carpet it had the lower trim level vinyl under the carpet. Things like that were dealer options.
01-13-2017, 09:18 AM
#25
There's nothing lazy about that reply! Striking gold right out the gate! Also, it's good to meet another yota dude from CO. I'm actually from there, moved to NOLA a year ago. I saw that truck with the pastel eagle and the sun on the hood, it actually looked like a pretty solid truck. Not sure what part of CO you're in but maybe you saw me getting around in my old 88 PU years ago. The cab was covered in astro-turf and the bed skirts were cut off and what was left of the bed and the camper shell were painted in crazy day-glo murals. That truck was an absolute rust bucket so I painstakingly applied astro-turf to the exterior, looked like it was painted on. I've got some pictures of that monstrosity kicking around somewhere.
I'm gonna get her to a manual carwash this weekend to blow crud out of as much as I can and start isolating any fluid leaks that will lead to ongoing crud build-up; I've already identified one coming from the power steering pump.
I've used polyester resin heaps in fibreglass fabrication and glazing putty specifically in fibreglass form construction. Should I use give the holes a couple of little taps with a conical punch to recess them a bit first?
I was thinking something along the lines as you said for the gate, thanks for the specific info. The driver door's a bit clunky as well; I'll pull both panels this weekend and inspect all the hardware and mechanisms.
Thanks again for all the good advice!
I'm gonna get her to a manual carwash this weekend to blow crud out of as much as I can and start isolating any fluid leaks that will lead to ongoing crud build-up; I've already identified one coming from the power steering pump.
I've used polyester resin heaps in fibreglass fabrication and glazing putty specifically in fibreglass form construction. Should I use give the holes a couple of little taps with a conical punch to recess them a bit first?
I was thinking something along the lines as you said for the gate, thanks for the specific info. The driver door's a bit clunky as well; I'll pull both panels this weekend and inspect all the hardware and mechanisms.
Thanks again for all the good advice!
I've got leaks in my PS also, primarily I think it's the hose from the resivore on mine. It is ATF so not really to worried about rust as long as it's wet all the way thru whatever gunk it collected.
For sure pean down any puckering at the screw holes so you don't have to do any build up around them to blend them in.
I've got either a loose mount or a blown bushing on the passengers door too and can hear it "pop" about 1/3rd open.
01-13-2017, 09:27 AM
#26
Registered User
I am super worried about safeguarding the truck from the Louisiana climate. I'm considering removing body panels and applying a finish on the back side to prevent rust. I wonder if anyone out there has done this and can recommend a good finish for this purpose.
01-14-2017, 07:53 AM
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
High Idle
So I'm trying to figure out this high idle and I'm starting with the vacuum lines. I have almost zero vacuum pressure anywhere besides one end of the VSV, where I have 22.5 hg. The truck is warmed up, shouldn't I be seeing vacuum in all the lines? Is there a problem with the VSV perhaps?
Last edited by Heironymous Josch; 01-14-2017 at 07:58 AM. Reason: Typo
01-14-2017, 08:08 AM
#28
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http://web.archive.org/web/201004010...14layoutan.pdf
I don't have a 22re, but it looks like you get NO vacuum on the EGR/Evap lines until the throttle is opened.
Here's information that should tell you whether the PAIR VSV should be open at warm idle: http://web.archive.org/web/201311071...20pulsedse.pdf
Keep in mind that the rest of us don't SEE what you see. So saying you get no vacuum "anywhere" makes us guess. Tell us what you find, and someone (much more knowledgeable than me) might be able to lead you in the right direction.
I don't have a 22re, but it looks like you get NO vacuum on the EGR/Evap lines until the throttle is opened.
Here's information that should tell you whether the PAIR VSV should be open at warm idle: http://web.archive.org/web/201311071...20pulsedse.pdf
Keep in mind that the rest of us don't SEE what you see. So saying you get no vacuum "anywhere" makes us guess. Tell us what you find, and someone (much more knowledgeable than me) might be able to lead you in the right direction.
Last edited by scope103; 01-14-2017 at 08:10 AM.
01-14-2017, 09:11 AM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
There should be a paint code on the door-pillar sticker.
Here's what they (some of them?) mean: http://www.toyotareference.com/truck
Here's what they (some of them?) mean: http://www.toyotareference.com/truck
01-14-2017, 09:13 AM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Agree about clearing the drain passages first. The inner panel coating isn't a bad idea, but you can focus on just a couple areas that will rust no matter how well the drains work: the inner wheel well to quarter panel seam and around the inside of the fuel filler panel, shown in this photo from mine. It's been in Northeastern Ohio for 4 years and needed some attention. I used KYB rust seal which is a moisture-curing urethane similar to por-15 and rust bullet. Any of them should do the job as long as the prep work is good.
01-14-2017, 10:19 AM
#31
Registered User
Thread Starter
http://web.archive.org/web/201004010...14layoutan.pdf
I don't have a 22re, but it looks like you get NO vacuum on the EGR/Evap lines until the throttle is opened.
Here's information that should tell you whether the PAIR VSV should be open at warm idle: http://web.archive.org/web/201311071...20pulsedse.pdf
Keep in mind that the rest of us don't SEE what you see. So saying you get no vacuum "anywhere" makes us guess. Tell us what you find, and someone (much more knowledgeable than me) might be able to lead you in the right direction.
I don't have a 22re, but it looks like you get NO vacuum on the EGR/Evap lines until the throttle is opened.
Here's information that should tell you whether the PAIR VSV should be open at warm idle: http://web.archive.org/web/201311071...20pulsedse.pdf
Keep in mind that the rest of us don't SEE what you see. So saying you get no vacuum "anywhere" makes us guess. Tell us what you find, and someone (much more knowledgeable than me) might be able to lead you in the right direction.
I'm a little rusty, haven't been wrenching or running diagnostics on an old toyota in a while. Thanks for your advice.
Josh
01-14-2017, 10:41 AM
#32
If you want to test the vacuum, for say a burnt valve or general health check use the multi port tap at the rear of the plenum. It's referred to as the "gas filter" in the literature.
iirc you have the high idle that doesn't change much if any when you start pulling lines.
You'll need to clamp or plug off the larger hoses, the brake booster, the power steering/AC, and the air valve. Do them one at a time while it's running, untill the idle comes down to you run out of hoses..
iirc you have the high idle that doesn't change much if any when you start pulling lines.
You'll need to clamp or plug off the larger hoses, the brake booster, the power steering/AC, and the air valve. Do them one at a time while it's running, untill the idle comes down to you run out of hoses..
01-14-2017, 11:00 AM
#34
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... I've got an intermittent reading at the coolant temp gauge in the cab. I pulled the wire off the water temp sensor and grounded it out using a test probe. The test lamp came on, which means I've got continuity in the circuit but the gauge didn't move so I think there's a problem there. The reason I mention this, is that perhaps it's a bad temp sensor that's giving me the high idle ...
If you actually GROUNDED the the gauge sensor wire, it would destroy the meter (this comes up when someone swaps in an SR5 combination meter but doesn't replace the water temp switch with a water temp sensor. As soon as they power the new combination meter, the grounded water temp switch wrecks the gauge.) But it looks like you had a test-light bulb to ground, which is the correct method to test the meter. http://web.archive.org/web/200910150.../6combinat.pdf
01-14-2017, 11:18 AM
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
The THW (water temp) signal doesn't come from the gauge sensor; there is a separate ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor for that. So a non-working temp gauge has nothing to do with idle.
If you actually GROUNDED the the gauge sensor wire, it would destroy the meter (this comes up when someone swaps in an SR5 combination meter but doesn't replace the water temp switch with a water temp sensor. As soon as they power the new combination meter, the grounded water temp switch wrecks the gauge.) But it looks like you had a test-light bulb to ground, which is the correct method to test the meter. http://web.archive.org/web/200910150.../6combinat.pdf
If you actually GROUNDED the the gauge sensor wire, it would destroy the meter (this comes up when someone swaps in an SR5 combination meter but doesn't replace the water temp switch with a water temp sensor. As soon as they power the new combination meter, the grounded water temp switch wrecks the gauge.) But it looks like you had a test-light bulb to ground, which is the correct method to test the meter. http://web.archive.org/web/200910150.../6combinat.pdf
Also, I wonder if that's what's wrong with the gauges in my cluster, a bungled SR5 gauge swap. I thought my truck was an SR5 when I bought it. It has the SR5 gauge cluster, door panels, rear glass defroster and gas door pull in the cab but the VIN search I did said that it's a DLX.
01-15-2017, 05:24 AM
#36
Contributing Member
I did get it in the knick of time. Beyond the screws in the pillars, there are 5 holes on the roof above the windshield where someone must have previously installed a visor. The screws have been removed and big globs of silicone put in their place. I may give these areas attention sooner rather than later before rust gets into them. For all the screw holes I plan to weld in small backer plates, filling the holes with the weld before filler, primer and paint.
I am super worried about safeguarding the truck from the Louisiana climate. I'm considering removing body panels and applying a finish on the back side to prevent rust. I wonder if anyone out there has done this and can recommend a good finish for this purpose.
If you want a more oil based product that will creep into seams, crevices and inside the frame, check out a product called Fluid Film. This is more of an annual application type oil, but is far better than using say WD40. Fluid Film is sold everywhere. I think I saw a can at Lowes the other day.
01-15-2017, 06:25 AM
#37
ECT sensor (EFI water temp) is located on the front of the lower intake, see the two horizontal plugs? The one closest the engine block is ECT to your right that is the cold start.
The gauge one is in the center of the intake next to the block.
And I'm drawing a blank for the thermostat housing. I think the single is air-conditioning, and the dual one goes to the transmission controller. Or maybe reverse those.
The gauge one is in the center of the intake next to the block.
And I'm drawing a blank for the thermostat housing. I think the single is air-conditioning, and the dual one goes to the transmission controller. Or maybe reverse those.
01-15-2017, 06:38 AM
#38
Decal strips stripes.
I poked around some.
The decals as we know are discontinued but there is the after market ones from http://www.jamesdeancreations.com
And jp-carparts has a very good list.
I think just maybe, you have a special edition and should go pester the dealership until they find your build sheet or have a trespass order served on you.
The decals as we know are discontinued but there is the after market ones from http://www.jamesdeancreations.com
And jp-carparts has a very good list.
I think just maybe, you have a special edition and should go pester the dealership until they find your build sheet or have a trespass order served on you.
01-16-2017, 01:44 PM
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm not certain which year they moved the build info from the engine bay to the door jam. Something like 88 or 89?
On my 86 there is the metal tag on the center of the firewall. This gives the paint code and trim level, but I've never ran across anything that says which decals it would have had.
In theory you can get a factory build sheet from the dealership, but I've not gone through the process. It might not contain the dealer add-ons.
My 2wd 94 is somewhere between the deluxe and sr5 trim level, the one thing that I recall clearly is carpet it had the lower trim level vinyl under the carpet. Things like that were dealer options.
On my 86 there is the metal tag on the center of the firewall. This gives the paint code and trim level, but I've never ran across anything that says which decals it would have had.
In theory you can get a factory build sheet from the dealership, but I've not gone through the process. It might not contain the dealer add-ons.
My 2wd 94 is somewhere between the deluxe and sr5 trim level, the one thing that I recall clearly is carpet it had the lower trim level vinyl under the carpet. Things like that were dealer options.
07-06-2017, 08:43 AM
#40
Registered User
The THW (water temp) signal doesn't come from the gauge sensor; there is a separate ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor for that. So a non-working temp gauge has nothing to do with idle.
If you actually GROUNDED the the gauge sensor wire, it would destroy the meter (this comes up when someone swaps in an SR5 combination meter but doesn't replace the water temp switch with a water temp sensor. As soon as they power the new combination meter, the grounded water temp switch wrecks the gauge.) But it looks like you had a test-light bulb to ground, which is the correct method to test the meter. http://web.archive.org/web/200910150.../6combinat.pdf
If you actually GROUNDED the the gauge sensor wire, it would destroy the meter (this comes up when someone swaps in an SR5 combination meter but doesn't replace the water temp switch with a water temp sensor. As soon as they power the new combination meter, the grounded water temp switch wrecks the gauge.) But it looks like you had a test-light bulb to ground, which is the correct method to test the meter. http://web.archive.org/web/200910150.../6combinat.pdf
I actually think that my temp gauge needle may just be sticky and maybe a little lubrication will help, but I'm also wanting to cover my bases.
