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Load Sensing Proportioning Valve

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Old 03-04-2018, 02:26 PM   #1  
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Load Sensing Proportioning Valve

I have found a lot of good information on this fourm, I am a new member and thanks in advance for the feedback. I am working on a 92 pickup for my wifes grandpa. The issue I am having now is with brakes. From what I have seen on here the lspv is a major topic and is one of the major leaks in the brake system. The lsvp in this truck has been leaking for a while the boot is shot an around the valve is rusted in some areas. The truck has over 300,000 original miles and I'm just trying to get it back on the road for him safely, budget minded. Being such a small truck and small tires I did get a manual proportioning valve that I can set so the rears will not lock up. The new proportioning valve has a single in and single out port. The truck now has three brake lines one being the in the other to the rear brakes the other I would think is a return line. My question is how can I keep this return line? Do I need it or should I cap it off somewhere? Can I just put a tee fitting on to my new proportioning valve and keep the return, if so what side of the port do I use the in or out side of the new valve?
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:44 PM   #2  
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Welcome. Just use search. I know I've explained the how to on that setup 3 times in last 2 months. Starting to get carpal tunnel syndrome from typing it out. Or maybe someone else will explain.
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Old 03-04-2018, 05:10 PM   #3  
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I went to the pick a part and picked up 2 for $20. I would really like to find a seal kit to rebuild it but to date no luck. I cleanup mine and used a good piston seal and reassembled. Works like a champ. Much easier than re plumbing, IMO.
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Old 03-04-2018, 07:03 PM   #4  
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Old 03-05-2018, 05:54 AM   #5  
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Originally Posted by NYHumpinUtah View Post
WOW, the China versions looks good. Thanks! How about a rebuild kit for the Toyota LSPV. 3 rubber seals. I can not find these anywhere. You can find kits for the M/C the calipers the wheel cylinders but not the LSPV.
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Old 03-05-2018, 07:42 AM   #6  
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I did look at this item on ebay. In the description it states for righthand drive models only tho.
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Old 03-05-2018, 07:48 AM   #7  
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I have all the parts just need to know if I need to tee the return line on one side or the other or cap it off somewhere. I'm a newbie still trying to navigate the forum lol. If anyone has already answered my question in a different thread could you put a link to it?
​​​​​Thanks!
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Old 03-05-2018, 02:21 PM   #8  
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I replaced the 3-way T at right passenger side just forward of passenger door on frame with a 2 way L. I sourced it from a boneyard, 2wd toyota truck. I cut T off and tacked L into it's place on bracket. I ran new hard line and routed new line to the bracket in the rear that holds the upper soft line. Used Nichol copper line to replace hard line, nice and easy to work with,probably didn't need to replace it but didn't like the idea of bending a 34 yr old steel line. Plus I had gas tank out and currently live in the rust belt. NiCu doesn't rust.
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Old 03-05-2018, 03:34 PM   #9  
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Originally Posted by SportsterSport View Post
I did look at this item on ebay. In the description it states for righthand drive models only tho.
Good catch, I missed that..........Glad I didn't buy it, now to search for a rebuild kit
Is it me or are these replacement parts getting harder to find.....
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Old 03-08-2018, 08:11 AM   #10  
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Thanks I found this today
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...delete-257369/
I think this is the same setup you described. I have a plug I am going to use on the T at passenger side wheel well to delete the return line. Then just put the new pv where the old lspv was. Thanks for the help!
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Old 03-08-2018, 02:36 PM   #11  
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Some pros and cons mounting manual valve in stock LSPV location.
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Old 03-11-2018, 07:23 PM   #12  
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Fixing the LSPV seems to be a quicker more proven solution. Once I cleaned up my pick a part replacement, bled and adjusted the brakes they work excellent. Much less hassle IMO. I would like to find a source for new replacement seals.
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