94' 3VZE (Auto)

I just finished a small tune up (V-power spark plugs, Autolite 5mm spark plug wires, cap/rotor, etc.) so I decided to take her for a little spin. When I am in park I idle around 800-900RPMS super smooth, as soon as I go in gear it drops to about 400-500RPMS and the truck starts to shake just a tad bit.

Since I am close to a highway I went for a little cruise, on the way back to my house my CEL came on. When I pulled into my driveway I smelled a strong gas odor. I looked underneath and there was about a half dollar size puddle of gas on the ground on the passenger side. I am going to guess that my CEL is going to be "Engine Code 25". I just wanted to get a quick list of what to check of why I could be leaking gas.

Tomorrow morning first thing I am going to double check my spark plugs to make sure they are torqued to 30ft/lbs, then replace the injector seals since I am sure that has not been done in a couple years.

Cliff Notes:
- V-power spark plugs (gapped 0.32)
- Autolite 5MM spark plug wires
- Ran Injector Cleaner when I filled up tank
- Seafoam treatment through vaccum lines (pulled the line from the brake booster)
- I now leak a small amount of gas and car doesn't idle great

Thanks in advance!

 

from what ive read, when using seafoam you disconect any gaslines?

if so, make sure they are all good and not leaking.

 

For the seafoam I disconnected the vac line from the brake booster. No fuel lines/gas lines would have been touched (can always correct me if I am wrong)

 

it may be the fuel pulsation dampner on the passenger side fuel rail. is the fuel leak under the passenger side of the engine?.. if it is, you need to remove the upper intake plenum and fix it ASAP!.. or take it to someone who can.. your truck should NEVER leak gas, the fuel injection system is under high pressure.. and if the leak is coming from where i suspect it is, then it is leaking all over a hot exhaust manifold and poses a very serious risk of fire. i have heard of a few 3vze toyotas that have died this way.. mine had the same problem, but i was able to fix it before it was too late. buy a fire extinguisher, and carry it in your lap while you drive to a mechanic to get it fixed!

 

Or hell...just don't drive it!! LOL!

Pulse dampener is a plausible culprit, but fluids do run around so it can be from somewhere else. Fuel line may have just gotten knocked loose, too. Check it all over. Powdered foot spray is useful to spray on connections, if you find it difficult to pinpoint the leak.

Just to confirm....no fuel lines ever need disconnected to run Seafoam or anything of the like. It's all vacuum lines so that it is drawn through the air intake. If doing a fuel treatment, then through the gas filler tube.

 

Yes I am not starting the truck until I find the culprit of the gas leak. Like I mentioned it's not pouring from the truck when it's running just a slow leak and it's not continuous which is why I am so puzzled.

I will check all the fuel connections as mentioned above, any way to test the pulse dampener so I can have a better idea that's the culprit?

 

As already mentioned, Fuel leaks are nothing to mess with.

If it is dripping on the ground there should be no problem finding it. Use a flashlight not a droplight. and look for your leak.

If you find a wet area, dry it off while the engine is off and then have someone else start it up while your eyes are trained on it. pressurized fuel leaks often spray a fine stream and unless you use this method you can be mislead and think it is leaking where it is not.

The damper is simply a diaphram with a spring, if it leaks it is bad. It is located where the fuel pressure line connects to the fuel rail, and actually fastens the banjo fitting to the fuel rail.

Keep us posted

 

Very wise! But how will find the leak then? Answer: you can run the fuel pump without starting the truck. Turn on the key (engine off), and with your Special Service Tool (paperclip) connect the FP to B+ on the diagnostic connector. This will close the fuel pump relay and pressurize the fuel system.

Good luck!

 

I just have no clue what it's called or how I would go about replacing it...


View from underneath the truck:


View from above the truck (looking down):


Hopefully I got some good shots so that maybe some of you guys could recognize it and give me a clue on how to replace it/find another. If not let me know and I will try to explain it more and get better pictures.

 

Thats the metal fuel line that goes from the fuel filter (by the trans crossmember) to the underhood line. Obviously you'll have to replace that section of line. The challenge (by the looks of the rust under the truck) will be getting the connections apart.

 

PB Blaster is my best friend...is there any special name it goes by?

 

I'd say what it was called before is enough to describe it. Getting that connection separated might not be too hard, just remember that there is probably fuel in the line above that connection that will be coming out.

 

it's definitely a long metal line that runs into the fuel filter. I will check my manual to see if I can get a product number/description. Hopefully this doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

 

Just checked the service manual I have and not much mentioned about the fuel system other then the EGR and fuel pump/gas tank. I guess I will have to make a stop at the stealership and try to describe the part as best as possible. Sorry my MS Paint skills suck:

 

Remove the fuel cap before you disconnect anything, this will releive the vapor pressure in the tank and reduce the amount of fuel that leaks out while you are working on it.

PB Blaster..... It's been my friend on occasion.

Soak everything you'll need to dis-assemble at least once a day until you go to take it apart.

 

use can use 3/8 fuel injection rubber rose and clamp .. use a small pipe cuter take out 4 inches and use 2 clamps per side...

also thrust is way better than pb.blast

trust me i have 3 candian toyotas i used so many pb blast bottles before i found thrust and MAN you can use it as a cutting fluid for drilling and alot of other stuff.. some diesel mechanics told me about it.. and i never looked back

 

Here was the culprit:



Thanks to bigt for the idea I am hoping this can be a permanant solution -
3/8" rubber fuel hose:



The only things I am worried about is that it does get hot in there, so I am hoping that the rubber hose won't melt. Also, there will be a lot of vibration so I don't want the hose to rub on something and burst open. Just wanted some opinions on if you guys think I would be good to go as if. I don't do heavy wheeling, rock crawling, or anything crazy like that. This is my DD for now.

 

should be fine. check it every oil change and see how it wears.

 

I hope that is high pressure rated fuel injection hose and not just fuel hose.

I would also recommend double clamping in this application.

 

MY SUGGESTION WAS FUEL INJECTION HOSE AND 2 CLAMPS perside....please do this... best route is to go steel lines but this does work..my trail rig is practically all rubber lines... but please double up on those clamps.. and congrats on saving yourself some cashing and fixing your truck by yourself... feels great!!