Green93

Hey,

I am just finishing up my engine and needed a place to ask all these little questions that are popping up.

First off, I am aligning the crank and the cams so I can get the timing belt on. The FSM is kind of vague and I want to make sure I only have to do this once. Will these steps work or are there any others I should take?
-first turn the crank until #1 cylinder is at top dead center. (is it possible that this could be 180* out?)

-next turn the cam gear until both the #1 valves are closed and line up the timing marks.

-then just turn the other cam until the timing marks line up.

Will everything line up using these steps or is there something else to do to get the second cam into sync with the rest of the engine?


Thanks guys for any help you can give me. I'll surely be posting more questions later.

Jason

justinking060310

I am assuming the 3.0 here, Get a SIG man!


***EDIT - here is a link to the FSM that I always use, might have some more or less detail than what you are using... http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html ***

You have outlined everything correctly.
Tip 1 - put your finger over the spark hole on the number one cylinder and turn the crank at the same time, when it blows your finger off, you are on the compression stroke - Then, what I usually do is CAREFULLY put a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole and turn the crank until you hit the top of its travel, then stop - you are for sure at TDC. I only tell you all of this because or your reference to being 180* out.

Tip 2- start the timing belt at the crank on the bottom and keep it tight going to the upper right cam and then to the upper left cam -- make sure you keep it tight!!

Tip 3- when you have the belt on and you think it is good, before you put the timing cover on, you need to rotate the crank exactly 2 revolutions clockwise(to the right) using the timing tab for a reference. If you did it correctly, your two cam marks should line up straight. If they do not, you probably did not keep it tight enough and you need to do it until you get it to pass the 2 revolution test. It usually takes me twice.

Good Luck!
Justin

Green93

Thanks for the help, and yes it is a V6. I added a sig now since I always seem to forget to add that info.

I've been looking at a few other things today since I need a few parts to continue with the engine. I tested my plug wires and found one is broken. Also the ignition coil is not passing the tests with the multimeter. My question is does the coil need to be hooked to power to give the correct readings or should they be the same if the battery and engine are out of the truck? If wires and coil just happen to both be screwed at the same time...does anyone recommend a particular brand of replacement? I think OEM would run me about $250 or so. Would I see a performance gain with something like MSD or Jacobs?

Jason

Targetnut

If you use a Toyota timing belt it should have marks on it to make it easier to get everything aligned.

dcg9381

The coil specs can vary quite a bit and the coil will still work. If you want to replace it buy a non-OEM replacement.. It'll be fine. Typically you disconnect wires to test, but as the ignition isn't on, it shouldn't make a difference.

If you get zero readings - closed circuit or open circuit then you have a problem.

Green93

I tested the coil as outlined on page IG-7 in the FSM. Primary coil resistance is supposed to be .36-.55 ohms cold. I got 1.1 ohms. Secondary coil is supposed to be 9.0-15.4 ohms. I didn't even get a reading.

The coil was obviously working when the head gasket went. It's been sitting ever since. Just seems weird it doesn't work now. I guess I'm in the market for an aftermarket coil and wires.

Jason

Jay351

Hey Jason I got a spare OEM coil+ignitor, pulled it outa my truck, not sure if it works. You're welcome to try it though

Green93

Thanks Jay, I just may take you up on that. So if you pulled yours out does that mean you're running aftermarket ignition? I don't know much about ignition but would something like this work for me? http://www.shopatron.com/product/par...0.9435.0.0.0.0

Seems to be a cheap easy alternative and more power to boot. Would I need an MSD 6A or 6AL box in addition to this coil?

Jason

Jay351

Actually, when I got my truck it was not running. I had gotten a friend of mine to help me out since I didn't know SQUAT about these engines.
He said the coil was probibly gone, so I went and got a used one, no difference, but since we got it under the table (no tax) I couldnt take it back.

Turns out the t-belt snapped Im pretty sure my old one still works, I dont know how to test it though.

Green93

When my headers get here maybe you could bring it over and I could test it like I did mine and compare. I'm pretty sure I'm doing it right but not 100%.

Jason

Jay351

Sounds great! I know Scott wants to come by too

shoot me a PM when you get the headers well.. I will probibly see you post it anyways

Green93

Ah what a pain in the ass. I got in too big of a hurry and forgot step 8. Forgot to turn the crankshaft pulley and align it on 0*. I have it together at 5*. I hate taking things apart again.

I'm still not 100% certain on my method of finding TDC on the #1 cylinder. I didn't use the screwdriver but turned it over by hand until the piston was trying to push my finger off of the spark plug hole. With the piston at the top of its stroke I turned the crank bolt to align the mark on the crankshaft timing pulley to the mark on the block.

I guess it's a non-interference engine so if I am off a little all I have to do is take it apart and adjust.

Jason