tacozod

Ok before I get started, I searched for my issue here and did not find any topics that seemed to relate.

Ok when I got my 1994 4Runner 2wd 3vze it had a bad trans. I replaced it with a used one. Then I was taking it to get an emission test and the engine light came on. Checked the code it was a 52. Knock sensor I replaced the knock sensor with the help of many posts on this board. But now after I put it all back together, I get pinging really really bad. It pings and seems to misfire through the entire rpm range. The truck ran great before I did the Knock sensor repair. Some people call it spark knocking or Spark rattle. The only thing I can think of is that I didn't replace the fuel injector O-rings when I put it back together. Wondering if that could be the culprit. Or the other thing is the vacuum hoses. I followed several peoples posts on the vacuum routing and I feel its something simple I have just over looked.

Anyone have any ideas as to what would cause this. Like I said before I did the knock sensor the truck ran great. It had a head gasket and new heads on it before I got it.

edit: I forgot to mention I did do the new knock sensor lead as well as new knock sensor. The lower intake gaskets were in good shape so I reused them as well as the upper intake gasket. When I put it all back together I had a major fuel leak on the front passenger injector. Also I did break the TVV on the back side of the motor. I bypassed it and hooked the hoses directly together. Should I have just capped them both?

This is the thread I followed to get the vac hoses straightened out. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-here-230638/

here is a video of what it is doing under load. skipping and generally running like poo

tacozod

Today I went through all the vacuum hoses again. Fixed a couple that I thought might be leaking. Found a hose that goes from the metal tubes on the front to what I think is the fuel pressure regulator. Apparently someone used a wiper hose which collapsed due to the vacuum. Thought that was the issue. But nothing changed. So I looked further and found that my driver side fuel rail was not tight on the front bolt. Still didn't fix the issue. I guess I will remove the entire upper intake again tomorrow and replace the o rings just to be sure that isn't the issue.

bpealer

Check the timing. Cam and ignition. Previous owner of my 4runner advanced the timing to compensate for the the code 52.

mxoliver115

I wish I could help you. I have my own code 52 issues.I also broke the vsv valve. I super glued mine since it was going to rain and it would be a few days out. It sounds like it could be anything. Vacuum leak or wrong hose hooked up., fuel air mixture, leaking gasket. Or maybe a spark plug wire mixed or broken.I just spent a week and replaces the knock wire from the sensor to ecm with rg58 coax. Code went away and came back after 2 trips to the store. I'm thinking the heat got to the wire.

tacozod

Thanks guys for the replies. I used the old O-rings for the fuel injectors, probably should have changed them. Think I'll do that tomorrow. Also I have propane tested everything and get no change in engine rpms. Checked out the cap and rotor tonight and cleaned up the contacts a little. They were slightly corroded. I again triple checked my vacuum hoses I found that the little orange and black check valve was in backwards according to my schematic on the hood. Changed that to the correct way and nothing changed. Also found my trans line leak after a week of searching for it. Whoever wrenched on this 4runner didn't use the front bracket to secure the lines and one had a hole rubbed into the metal line.

I will check the timing tomorrow as well. It appears that the heads are either new or rebuilt and the timing belt was new as well. As I said before it MUST be something I did, the truck ran great before I took it apart. Ran great until the 52 came up and lost power. But after sitting all night it would run great again. Then same spot on the way to the store the check engine light would come on. 52 I get no codes now other than a 41 which was the damn TPS was not hooked up when I first put it back together. I reset the ECM thinking the 41 might be causing the issue but its not. code is gone but still have the issue.

I'm still digging into the issue I will post results. Hope its just a cracked O-ring.

Edit for this question... If I got the 2 power steering hoses hooked up backwards could it cause the stumble? ITEM 5 AND 13 ON THIS PICTURE.

mxoliver115

Yes. Power steering pump doesn't go to 5 and 13. 5 and 13 connect together. I can look on mine but one goes to a hose before the throttle body and one strait into the plentum. And rumor has it if you mess them up your engine will sick up your PS fluid

tacozod

The guy had the best writeup on the hoses that aren't covered in the FSM.
Here is his diagram and layout .

1. Reed valve
2. Fuel return hose
3. Brake booster
4. Rear air hose at the AC idle up
5. PS pump valve
6. Front air hose at the AC idle up
7. Vac hose #1 to pass side of rear VSV
8. Vac hose #2 to pass side of center VSV
9. PCV hose
10. Vac hose #5 to driver side of center VSV
11. Vac hose #3 to pass side of front VSV
12. Vac hose #6 to driver side of front VSV
13. PS pump valve

Vac hose #4 goes from driver side of rear VSV to the reed valve

AC idle up vacuum hoses:
- pass side to diaphragm (very short hose)
- driver side tee's into vacuum hose #2 (item 8 in your picture)
__________________

mxoliver115

I apologize 4 and 5 go to the same place which on mine is turned horizontal so mine is set up that way.wish I can help more. So I'd Glue that Vsv valve back together. Check all your injectors and replace any ugly o rings. Maybe can timing is off. Did you use a new pigtail for your knock sensor?

Gamefreakgc

I was going to ask the same exact thing. Sometimes when you do any top-end engine work, just moving the knock sensor pigtail will cause it to disintegrate! Definitely replace the pigtail when you have it open. That would best explain the pining you are experiencing.

I think you've got your hoses on right though, that's an awesome picture and diagram outlining the whole thing.

tacozod

Yes new OEM pigtail but after market knock sensor. Im in the middle of tearing the top off the engine right now. When I took the TB off I noticed some gas that looked like it had been leaking out of the bottom of the TB.

Which would in fact suck air if not seated correct. Might be part of the issue.
About to pull the rails off and check each injector for ware and clogs. Double checking O-rings. Will post pictures of anything questionable.

mxoliver115

You shouldn't get gas out your tb I replaced my while coax from sensor to ecm with rg58 from radio shack. 12 box and I soldered it all together with no splices. Its all better now.

scope103

Hooking them up "backwards" doesn't matter; it's just a vacuum valve that opens when the PS pump is at higher pressure. 5 and 13 are correct

No, that only happens if the valve on the PS pump fails, and has nothing to do with how the vacuum lines are hooked up.

I can't tell much from a video, but it sounds much more like an exhaust leak than any sort of pinging. And exhaust leaks rarely cause performance issue (the exception is if you're sucking air in before the o2 sensor).

The TVV is about $65 (dealer); some have successfully repaired them but the plastic on mine was too crumbly. As a temporary measure you can splice the two lines together; the truck will just run poorly when cold. If you don't hook them up at all the canister will overfill, you'll get a fumes smell, and eventually drip out gasoline.

Ignition timing is very often the cause of performance issues, and is so easy to check you should always start there. Did you check it?

Do I understand you have cleared up all your codes (52, 41, ?) and your issue now is just performance?

It is a sad fact of working on any vehicle (especially an older one) that even though you only "worked on" one thing (the knock sensor) just putting your hand on a vacuum line (for instance) will affect something else. You might have had a loose vacuum line that was compensated for by mis-set timing. When you put your hand on the line it "fixed" it, and now your mis-set timing is apparent. Check things systematically and in order (checking the vacuum lines like you have is excellent.)

tacozod

Well things didn't go well today. Bought a new upper intake gasket,TB base gasket and new o-rings. Well everything went well getting it all installed. Even bought new bolts the the previous wrencher didn't install. Got it all back together and FML front driver side fuel injector spraying like there was no o-ring. So I tightened up the fuel rail and pow snapped the stud off broke a spacer and cracked a fuel injector.. So I guess im just going to buy a new set of injectors and be done with it. Found some remans on ebay for 100.00 or so. Also thought I fixed the trans line leak but that too failed and proceeded to pump out about 2 quarts of the finest trans fluid all over the driveway. Didn't notice it due to the large amount of fuel I was dumping. So my head was more about the gasoline leaking everywhere and not noticing the trans fluid dumping. Got it fixed now though. GRRRR I HATE THIS TRUCK.

If anyone wants to buy it let me know. 1000.00 gets it. I have that much in it. I can post some pictures if you might be interested.

mxoliver115

The book says to lube the injector o rings with some gas. I got an injector for 20 bux at the auto wrecker since I broke the green plastic tip installing. At least you know where to start.

tacozod

Yea I'm going to look for the TVV thing as well. I did lube the O-rings have no idea why it didn't seal. I will check it again once I get the repair parts. I do know the truck that's out there in the boneyard already has been raped of the knock sensor and the wire. It was not me but that's why I went out there in the first place. Anyhow the intake is off on it I just have to see if the parts I need are still there.

I guess I can look for a 3.0 camry if the other truck was picked clean. But usually those types of people leave the bolts and crap laying where they took them out.

I have not checked the timing yet. Because of all the damn leaks. LOL anyhow I will do that once I get it where its not leaking gas and can get it to run for longer than 3 seconds without nuclear meltdown.

Just to make sure I understand correctly. Jump e1 and te1 then check timing. 10 degrees before tdc should be the correct setting? I have to paint the crank pulley line so its easier to see like on a 350 Chevy.

NEED A SOURCE FOR NEW FUEL INJECTOR CONNECTORS. All of mine are brittle and have broken. No locks on any of them. I guess I will also look at the junkyard truck for these as well.

tacozod

The TVV was crumbs on mine as well. Code 52 has not came back The 42 came due to the fact I forgot to plug in the TPS. I know that's why it was there. The issue with the truck now is that it skips while running at all rpms. If you listen to the video you can hear it stumbling. It has new catback Magnaflow High flow cat and muffler. 02 sensors are in place and working. The exhaust you hear is the catback. Its the erratic rpms that are causing me the headache. The pinging was hard to hear in the video but I know what "spark rattle sounds like" and that's what it was. Could have been the gasoline. But that's all gone now and I just put fresh gas in it. Once I fix the injector leak I will check the timing.

Gamefreakgc

If you're looking for a new set of injectors, Flamethrowers are good. But if you want to just replace 1, junkyard is best bet.

Did you happen to mess with the distributor at all? Wires to and from ignition are in good shape with no shorts?

tacozod

If I can get just one injector I'll be ok with that but if the injectors continue to be a pain in the butt I'll replace them all.

Didn't mess with the dizzy or anything ignition related. Other than popping the cap and rotor off to check for damage or corrosion. So its possible that the ignition is still set at whatever the previous owner did to it. Once I get the leaks fixed I can move on to timing.

FWIW I was curious about where you could get the TVV and wanted to cross reference it. So this might help someone that has a badly busted one that might want to scrounge around a boneyard for one.

These are all the models that use the same TVV.... So you don't have to search for JUST A 4Runner. Now you have other options.

4Runner 1992.02-1995.01 6cyl 3.0L MTM DLX
4Runner 1992.02-1995.01 6cyl 3.0L ATM DLX
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM STD T1
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 T1
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 4D
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 2D
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 T1
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM DLX T1
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM DLX T1
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM STD T1
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 T1
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 4D
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 2D
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 T1
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 4D
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM DLX T1
4Runner 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM DLX T1
4Runner 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L MTM STD T1
4Runner 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 WG
4Runner 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 V
4Runner 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 T1
4Runner 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L MTM DLX V
4Runner 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L MTM DLX T1
4Runner 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 WG
4Runner 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 V
4Runner 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 T1
4Runner 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L ATM DLX V
4Runner 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L ATM DLX T1
Truck, Pickup 1992.02-1995.01 6cyl 3.0L MTM DLX
Truck, Pickup 1992.02-1995.01 6cyl 3.0L ATM DLX
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM STD T1
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 T1
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 4D
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 2D
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 T1
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM DLX T1
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM DLX T1
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM STD T1
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 T1
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 4D
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 2D
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 T1
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 4D
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM DLX T1
Truck, Pickup 1988.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM DLX T1
Truck, Pickup 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L MTM STD T1
Truck, Pickup 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 WG
Truck, Pickup 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 V
Truck, Pickup 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 T1
Truck, Pickup 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L MTM DLX V
Truck, Pickup 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L MTM DLX T1
Truck, Pickup 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 WG
Truck, Pickup 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 V
Truck, Pickup 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 T1
Truck, Pickup 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L ATM DLX V
Truck, Pickup 1987.11-1989.03 6cyl 3.0L ATM DLX T1
Corolla 1987.08-1989.08 4cyl 1.6L MTM GTS
Corolla 1986.09-1988.08 4cyl 1.6L MTM Q
Corolla 1986.09-1988.08 4cyl 1.6L MTM GTS
Corolla 1986.09-1988.08 4cyl 1.6L ATM Q
Corolla 1986.09-1988.08 4cyl 1.6L ATM GTS
Corolla 1984.08-1987.07 4cyl 1.6L MTM GTS 3D
Corolla 1984.08-1987.07 4cyl 1.6L MTM GTS 2D
MR2 1984.12-1989.12 4cyl 1.6L MTM GT TBR
MR2 1984.12-1989.12 4cyl 1.6L MTM GT CP
MR2 1984.12-1989.12 4cyl 1.6L ATM GT TBR
MR2 1984.12-1989.12 4cyl 1.6L ATM GT CP
Celica 1982.08-1983.08 4cyl 2.4L MTM ST CP
Celica 1982.08-1983.08 4cyl 2.4L MTM GTS LB
Celica 1982.08-1983.08 4cyl 2.4L MTM GTS CP
Celica 1982.08-1983.08 4cyl 2.4L MTM GT LB
Celica 1982.08-1983.08 4cyl 2.4L MTM GT CP
Celica 1982.08-1983.08 4cyl 2.4L ATM ST CP
Celica 1982.08-1983.08 4cyl 2.4L ATM GT LB
Celica 1982.08-1983.08 4cyl 2.4L ATM GT CP
Celica 1981.08-1984.08 6cyl 2.8L MTM SPR LB
Celica 1981.08-1984.08 6cyl 2.8L ATM SPR LB
Celica 1980.08-1981.07 6cyl 2.8L MTM SPR LB
Celica 1980.08-1981.07 6cyl 2.8L ATM SPR LB
Celica 1979.01-1980.08 4cyl 2.7L MTM SPR LB
Celica 1979.01-1980.08 4cyl 2.7L ATM SPR LB
Cressida 1980.09-1984.07 6cyl 2.8L MTM SED
Cressida 1980.09-1984.07 6cyl 2.8L ATM WG
Cressida 1980.09-1984.07 6cyl 2.8L ATM SED
Cressida 1979.08-1980.08 4cyl 2.7L LG SED
Cressida 1979.08-1980.08 4cyl 2.7L L WG
Cressida 1979.08-1980.08 4cyl 2.7L L SED

Kiroshu

Um.. no with terminals jumped timing should be at 0* TDC.

Terminals not jumped timing at 5* ATDC.

tacozod

Ahh I got it. Thanks going back into it later today hopefully I can figure out why the injector is leaking like it is. Couldn't find one in the junkyard so I may have to buy a set.