i will do that Johnny, I am going to the boneyard in the morning to look for some stuff and i will grab all the cams I can find...

 

yah id defiently get them to look at that and machine when necessary cuz you've got quite a bit of leakage... make sure they look at all the cylinders! better safe then sorry... anything over 5% leakage makes me nervous

 

hehe dont get them all! Im saving up for my valve order now as well so money is tight here..

 

UPDATE - 4crawler body lift is in - 2 hour install time

front before :


front after :


rear before :


rear after :


The jacking point we used - make sure you use a 4x4 and not a 2x4


Overall Driveway Shot :


before we started I :
1. sprayed the bolts twice over 2 days, didnt have any problems with them.
2. already had the front bumper off
3. already had the airbox out
4. unbolted tranny/tcase linkages
5. unbolted steering rag joint

Things I encountered -
1. my positive battery cable is 3 inches to short
2. nothing else yet.


Kat and Justin

 

Is that the only spot you used (per side)? Just one lift point to get all 4 mounts per side? Nice!

 

thats the only one I needed - didn't have anything bind and it went quick!


if you look under there, there is a notch that a 2x4/4x4 will fit in perfectly

 

My cable was too short, but we looked under the truck and we where able to twist it in a way that gave us some slack.

 

UPDATE - I have not been able to get the spray gun to work, so Katie got bored and rolled it in - well, is in the process of rolling it on - Still not our favorite look, but we will see how it turns out...

 

looking good so far. i'm diggin.

Glad to see you used the proper 4"x4". That way you know it's good.

 

2 untaped shots

 

Looks good.

 

Are you parting that?

 

if i were you i would replace everything my 91 runner had a similar problem and i had to to replace guides, seats,etc. and i dont know how much they cost where you live but i purchased new stainless steel valves for 5 bucks a piece because the 3vze has a bad problem with heat on no's 5 & 6 because when toyota manfactured the block something happened during the maching process that caused the block to contour on those cyl's but just my personal experience maybe you can have the cam ground but i still think that by the pics that the marring on the lobe may still throw off the valve lash another place to suspect cause is on the front of the cams there is some dowels that hold the cam in balance if the fall out look out they will cause the cam to be out of balance and throw the timing off. also the screws for the caps that hold down the cam on no 1 & 3 are a little short from the factory so look at the threads when you assemble make sure these are not stripping and are torqued to spec otherwise it can have the same effect on your cam. good luck utah 4runner

 

utah - I am assuming you meant to post that in Corvey's thread about valve shims.... lol


and no.. not parting that one out - it's in the middle of a HG change

 

looks very nice, i am subscribing!

 

wow! That looks really good

Paint your frame rails!! Looks 100x better when they are painted a nice gloss black

 

That's why I bought a valve spring compressor, to put new valve guide seals in! My stealeship wants $11.69 per shim!!!

Didn't mean to hi-jack this thread! LOL!