Katie's Project RedRunner!(very, very, very long)
#24
I have 2 separete ones and never really found ones that have 2 in 1.Kat,
Yes when the lobes are pointing up or at least make sure the lobes are not touching the shim.
#25
New valve clearances -- I made sure this time that the lobe was 90* from the head surface - IE lobe straight up...
cyl 5 in - .011 cyl 6 in - .011
cyl 5 ex - .009 cyl 6 ex - .007
cyl 3 in - .011 cyl 4 in - .011
cyl 3 ex - >.035 cyl 4 ex - .008
cyl 1 in - .010 cyl 2 in - .010
cyl 1 ex - .007 cyl 2 ex - .010
analysis?
The FSM says that intake should be between .007 - .011 and exhaust should be .009 - .013
So, it appears to my uneducated self that the intake valves all look good. All of the exhaust valves are "tight" (is that the correct term?). If my leakdown test does not show anything out of the ordinary, can i safely adjust my exhaust valves to within spec, put a new passenger side cam on and put her back together?
Kat...
PS - Leakdown tester shipped today and should be hear about the end of the week. I have the fancy craftsman compression gauge and it says that it can hold air in the cylinder.... dont i need to be able to gauge how much is being lost, hence i need the two gauge setup of the leak down tester?
Thanks as always
cyl 5 in - .011 cyl 6 in - .011
cyl 5 ex - .009 cyl 6 ex - .007
cyl 3 in - .011 cyl 4 in - .011
cyl 3 ex - >.035 cyl 4 ex - .008
cyl 1 in - .010 cyl 2 in - .010
cyl 1 ex - .007 cyl 2 ex - .010
analysis?
The FSM says that intake should be between .007 - .011 and exhaust should be .009 - .013
So, it appears to my uneducated self that the intake valves all look good. All of the exhaust valves are "tight" (is that the correct term?). If my leakdown test does not show anything out of the ordinary, can i safely adjust my exhaust valves to within spec, put a new passenger side cam on and put her back together?
Kat...
PS - Leakdown tester shipped today and should be hear about the end of the week. I have the fancy craftsman compression gauge and it says that it can hold air in the cylinder.... dont i need to be able to gauge how much is being lost, hence i need the two gauge setup of the leak down tester?
Thanks as always
Last edited by justinking060310; Aug 21, 2007 at 02:15 PM.
#26
^ Well yea you defiantly have a problem on #4 exhaust
I talked to cam grinder and he said he can reweld that cam lobe if you wanted as well. Brings the cost up $50 but you will have a perfect grind done.
Of course thats if you are going with the same cams as before
Leak down has 1 or 2 gauges....pressure hold is a different thing.
I talked to cam grinder and he said he can reweld that cam lobe if you wanted as well. Brings the cost up $50 but you will have a perfect grind done.Of course thats if you are going with the same cams as before

Leak down has 1 or 2 gauges....pressure hold is a different thing.
#27
Opposite direction = 180 degrees (I assume straight up means straight away from the valves)
Defiantly = insubordinate, rebellious
Definitely = absolutely, certainly
On the other hand, impressive and interesting project you have here. Just saw somebody selling a 91 4runner for $500 here with bad compression in 2 cylinders.
Defiantly = insubordinate, rebellious
Definitely = absolutely, certainly
On the other hand, impressive and interesting project you have here. Just saw somebody selling a 91 4runner for $500 here with bad compression in 2 cylinders.
#28
With a leakdown tester you will be applying air from your compressor constantly and the gauge will show you what % of the air is leaking... then you determin where... quite different from a compression tester.
#29
yes, the leak down tester uses a higher psi than you will attain during a comprettion test and also does it in a manner that does now turn over the engine so the valves will stay closed.
#32
Leak Down Test Completed! I think the motor has a problem, but I need you all to let me know....
I am going to put the readings up from the test - I started each cylinder at TDC(I learned the put a screwdriver in and bring it to the top method, after it blows my finger off of the hole) and both gauges at 76 PSI EVERY time.
Cyl 6 - 60---> 56 = 6.6% from intake (a lot)
Cyl 5 - 63---> 58 = 8% leaking below intake valve area
Cyl 4 - 70---> 63 = 10% leaking from intake (little)
Cyl 3 - 60---> 24 = 60% leaking from EGR (a lot)
Cyl 2 - 54---> 50 = 7% no leak or too small to find
Cyl 1 - 65---> 57 = 12% no leak or too small to find
HELP - what does all of this equate to?
Kat
I am going to put the readings up from the test - I started each cylinder at TDC(I learned the put a screwdriver in and bring it to the top method, after it blows my finger off of the hole) and both gauges at 76 PSI EVERY time.
Cyl 6 - 60---> 56 = 6.6% from intake (a lot)
Cyl 5 - 63---> 58 = 8% leaking below intake valve area
Cyl 4 - 70---> 63 = 10% leaking from intake (little)
Cyl 3 - 60---> 24 = 60% leaking from EGR (a lot)
Cyl 2 - 54---> 50 = 7% no leak or too small to find
Cyl 1 - 65---> 57 = 12% no leak or too small to find
HELP - what does all of this equate to?
Kat
Last edited by justinking060310; Aug 23, 2007 at 03:30 PM.
#37
great, thanks for being the bearer of bad news
-- I think I am going to have my shop do them for me - they said they would put the new cam and rebuild the heads for $300 - Time to order some HG's from Ted...
-- I think I am going to have my shop do them for me - they said they would put the new cam and rebuild the heads for $300 - Time to order some HG's from Ted...
#39
Just one new cam - yea, hes a pretty decent guy - he charged me 350 when i had him put Johnny's cams in and rebuild my heads with OS valves.... all i had to do was bolt them back on...




