Hey all,
First time posting here. I have a 1988/89 4Runner. Bought it new in 89. Years ago I put a short-block in it after the cold of Jackson WY killed the engine - after I moved out of the area, I spun a rod bearing. It has a 22R E Engine.

Started to notice oil blowing out the tail. Compression is good so figured it must be valve stem seals. I pulled the head, replaced the seals and reassembled the engine. Timing seems right and it starts right away. However, after running for a few seconds, the engine dies. I can start it when it's cold but it dies when it just warms up. That was the initial symptoms. So to set timing, jumper T and E1... kills the engine. Start it cold, put in jumper, engine dies. Throttle position sensor tested good.

Been ˟˟˟˟˟˟ with this for a week and at my wits end...I suspect timing is the issue. How do you set initial timing if you can't jumper T and E1?

 

whats it idle at before you jumper?

 

I haven't put a tack on it yet but I am guessing around 1200-1500. It sounds like it has always sounded. Fast idle till it starts to warm up, then it normally slows down to a regular idle.

 

maybe a silly question but have you checked for good fuel pressure? how old is the pump/ inline filter? entirely possible that once pressure builds up the filter gets clogged, or even that the pump cant keep up and is weak. first things i usually try and check when an engine wont run are fuel/air and spark right..

 

Thanks Keycw... I don't have a way to check fuel pressure but I did an odd check by undoing the cold start pressure line and it is spraying VERY hard. Is it possible for the cam gear to be one tooth off and the car still run?
The way I replaced the valve steam seals and the head gasket (yes... new gasket) was to simply wire the timing chain up and reset the cam sprocket. When eying it, crank at 0 degrees, rotor pointing to #1 and the cam sprocket pointing straight up... well almost straight up. maybe a half-tooth to the right.

The block and chain has about 30k miles on it so I didn't change that. The chain guides look good and are not damaged.
It sure looks correct to me but I am a v8 guy... so what the hell do I know about Toyota 22RE's?

 

Maybe your ignition timing is set at zero or very little advance. Then when you jumper it, it retards and kills the engine. Without jumpering it, lower the idle and read the timing. I would expect it to read about 12* advanced if close to factory setting. You can adjust it without jumpering it or without the truck even running. Just don’t expect it to read the same as jumpered.

 

this is where my mind went when i first read, which is why i asked what his timing was before jumping. i agree with melrose i would pick up a cheap timing gun at autozone and start here. will be pretty hard to get very far without a gun on this issue.

 

Thanks Guys... I have a great timing gun and the timing advances to about 18-20* when it starts. I am thinking I may have the cam sprocket off by one tooth. Is that possible? Seems that would advance the timing, but I would have thought it would run really rough. Yet... it doesn't. No rough idle... it just stalls.

 

So, a little advise. I adjusted the timing by moving the chain one tooth over. When the cam gear is just past straight up, the crank timing is between 12* and 13*.



But when the crank is at 0* the cam seems way off.

 

I think it was likely correct before you moved the sprocket.
Most 22r engines show the dot near as much to the left as your first image shows it to the right. when the crank keyway is at vertical.
Your harmonic balancer may have slipped it's rubber so that it is not accurately indicating TDC??

 

Yea... I thought as much. Thanks for the directional help. I will put it back to how it was. With the crank at 0*, the cam sits just to the right of the vertical. It must be a vacuum leak then.