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Jumped Diagnostic TE1 to E1, spark, now no start

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Old 05-16-2018, 01:00 PM   #1  
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Jumped Diagnostic TE1 to E1, spark, now no start

I think I blew a fuse? I jumped te1 to e1, it sparked out for a second then nothing, I tried to start the car and now it cranks but won't turn over. Any suggestions?
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:42 PM   #2  
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yeah, check your fuses before asking for suggestions, that way you can tell us either that you found a blown fuse or that you tested all of your fuses with a meter and _____ (insert fuse description here) doesn't have any power to it with the key on.
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:42 AM   #3  
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Check the EFI fuse. Chances are you accidentally connected E1 to B+ instead of TE1 in the diag connector, which would definitely take out that fuse. Engine won't run without it.
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Old 05-17-2018, 11:43 AM   #4  
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The "much better" way to check fuses is with a multimeter. Almost all "blade" fuses (including the Standard ATO we have) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(automotive) have a pair of electrical contacts on the "back" (non-blade) side. Set your multimeter to volts, attach one lead to a ground, and put the other lead on EACH of the two contacts. You should have 12v on each contact for a good fuse. If only one contact has 12v, the fuse is open ("blown"). If neither has 12v you have an interrupted circuit upstream.

Laboriously pulling each fuse and "looking" at it not only misses all of the above, it's more work.
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Old 05-17-2018, 12:08 PM   #5  
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You can also check fuses with a test light instead of a multimeter if that is whats on hand (a multimeter comes in handy though, so if you don't have one, I suggest you get one). You can test the fuses the same way as you would for a multimeter as Scope103 has described with the clamp lead connected to ground. Touch the tip of the test light to each fuse test contact. If only one side of the lights the test light bright but the other does not light the test light, you have an open fuse.

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Old 05-17-2018, 03:17 PM   #6  
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Learn something new everyday. Thanks guys!!
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