I understand now what you mean by it feels like a race car! When my truck is at WOT, it roars like nothing else! And as a bonus, I didn't have to touch the screw on the AFM at all, only the idle speed screw. I also set timing at 15 degrees.

I am definitely satisfied with how it turned out! In regards to performance, the most noticeable improvement on my truck has been in the low RPM range. Before, my truck would be sluggish in the sub 2400 RPM range. I drove it around the city yesterday and I kept up with traffic with ease (streets in Roseville have 45-50 MPH limits and drive fast) without have to lay on the gas. I'm used to having to press the accelerator more than other vehicles I drive (it's my DD) and I was moving much quicker immediately. And when I need it... there was a significant improvement in power in the 2500-4500 RPM range.

I tested it on the freeway this morning too. There's a definitely "snappy" feeling to the throttle and it responds way better! Better acceleration and a HP gain, though I'm not a good judge of how much. Also, I used to have trouble accelerating 70+ to pass on the freeway, not anymore! It responds immediately when trying to pass. 22RE's having nothing on my truck! Can't call it a 3.slow anymore! Maybe a 3.go?

I will say, this is my fourth mod/upgrade to the air/exhaust system so those going from complete stock might notice more of a jump in power than I did, though mine was very noticeable. If I were to rank the most effective mods I've done:

1. Cat-back upgrade to 2 1/4" piping and Magnaflow muffler. Made a huge improvement. However, not fully utilized if you still have stock air intake and filters. Gave more power in the high RPMs, I could actually drive in the Sierras with my truck again. Also gave 20% better MPG's and comparable increase in power.

2. 7MGE VAFM swap. Added low RPM improvement, much quicker throttle response. Combined with cat-back upgrade, it's about as good as it gets! Was very simple considering the amount of parts changed. Also, I drilled 1/4" holes in the air box to add extra air flow.

3. K&N air filter. People rag on these all the time but they work great.

4. Air box spoiler removal (taking out the piece that goes from air box to headlight). The 7MGE airbox spoiler is already moved so this is a moot point now.

Granted, I went the Spectre route (wanted 3" intake and chrome finish) so all in all, the airbox, AFM, intake and breathers cost me $150. But it's worth it! I highly recommend this to anyone, and it's really not as bad as it seems. You can do the whole thing and adjustments in one full day. Also, I just used the universal kit and swapped some pieces around, fits fine. My PCV breather hose is still connected as well.

I'll post pics when I am home.

 

Im happy for ya man! im glad it went Above and beyond your expectations. your description of your improvement is well written and very similar to my improvements. keep track of your gas mileage. im curious to see if yours goes up as well, if you can keep your foot out of it... lol. you may want to start running higher octane fuel since you bumped the timing up. this will avoid pinging.... and this is the 2nd swap i have been "involved" in that you didnt have to touch the afm screw..... interesting

 

There are over 16,000 views on this thread. Go and do it, it's worth it!

Here's some pics of my rig with the 3" Spectre intake and the 7MGE AFM and air box:

 

I'm curious to see how this effects tailpipe emissions? Do you live in an area that requires emission testing? It would definitely fail a visual inspection where I live due to the breathers

 

I have no emissions test where i live ( thank God ) but you could easily plumb the hoses back into the airbox with some thought. btw gamefreakgc..... how great is the sound our trucks over 5 grand rpms? and the throttle response.....out of this world..... and yes more people should definitely do this mod. funny story.... i rode in a friends 3.0 truck the other day, i kept thinking to myself..... why is this thing so slow! oh ya stock truck. lol

 

Oops double post

 

Lol... yeah I know! When I went in to the auto parts store the guy was bashing the fact that I had a 3.0. I was trying to explain how much of a difference it was going to make but he kept going on about how his 22RE was much more powerful

In regards to smog testing, I live in the strictest state in the US. I just happened to need to smog my truck and it barely squeaked by the day before I made the swap (87 HC, 89 allowed!). There's no way my truck passing smog right now, I can smell a little bit of unburnt fuel when it is cold (it also pings ever so slightly, I think it might be a tad rich still).

However, the beauty of this mod is that there is no permanent changes! I still have the complete stock air assembly (currently in the back of my truck) that I can swap out in literally 10 minutes. The only thing that would need to be changed would be the timing back to 10 degrees, if your state requires it. After passing smog, slap the new intake back on, set timing and you're good to go!

 

i did this mod, but didn't adjust bypass screw or timing. i agree with throttle response and the grade climbing difference is worth it alone. i can do all the 5fwy(most of it at least, depends who robs my momentum) in 5th gear when i was ds'ing to 4th and sometimes even 3rd.

where are your cold/warm idles at guys?
will check mine again this evening.

 

22re more powerful that is good, my 3.0 in my 4runnet kills my dad's 22re powered pickup. He's obviously never had a 3.0

 

heres my setup. feel free to play with it as you will:
7mge afm 5 clicks rich, yes 5 not 6. I moved it back one
7mge coil... probably not necessary for everybody
8 mm spark plug wires
platinum ngk spark plugs gapped to .042 ( 7mge spec)
2 1/2 inch ISR pipe
cold idle 1050 rpm
warm idle 550 rpm

 

Do we have a place on this website to house modifications such as this one? It's definitely the easiest and most productive mod for the 3VZ-E and I think it's also compatible with the 22RE (don't quote me though). I would be a shame for this thread to just disappear and be lost to the infinite archives of yotatech...

 

Can you snap a few quick photos of your setup? I'm in SoCal also and still haven't done this mod. Trying to find the easiest way to set it up so I can pull it off when it's time to smog.

 

i would agree with this, or add it to the 86-95 FAQ. or better yet make a 3.0 mod sticky that includes egr delete, headers, exhaust elimination, stock afm going 3 clicks lean, etc etc..

 

My truck doesn't like low RPMs so my cold idle is 1400 RPM and my warm is 850 RPM. That's at 6 clicks rich on the AFM but I might be changing to 5 as well if the slight pinging doesn't go away soon. I might also try running 93 octane again (it gives my truck a boost in MPG's that offsets the extra cost).

 

Yes i forgot to mention that i run 93 octane as well. it does help with power and prevent pinging. it is basically a 20 cent difference in price between 87 and 93 octanes around here. so if you figure 20 cents over a tank fill up of 17 gallons its 3 dollars and 40 cents more to get better gas mileage and a cleaner engine. my trucks gets about 17-19 mpg's. my average is around 17 because i drive it like a race car. my best tank is 19 but i drove like miss daisy and that was boring. so let it roar and have some fun

 

Gamefreakgc, Have you bypassed the powersteering and airconditioning idle up?
The little blue airfilter would say that and creating a huge vacuum leak when you turn the steering wheel or with the AC on.

 

I don't have any issues or vacuum leaks if I understand the system right. The two hoses that are eliminated just went to the air box and they are not a closed system. They connect to a hose that normally would connect to the top of the airbox (downstream of the air filter but upstream of the AFM). The system is not under any kind of restriction or pressure. By removing the hose and placing a breather filter it doesn't change a thing on the system other than removing the resonator boxes and extra hosing.

EDIT: I tested the A/C and Powersteering again today and it turns out the A/C is no longer idling up like it should. I've had this problem in the past though for other reasons so it is possible it's just my truck. The powersteering does not create a vacuum leak. However, it only drops the RPMs from 800 to 600, so not terrible (before with A/C it idled at 1050 RPM)

 

Hey Bonecollector...does the 7mge coil just plug right in or is there some mod's involved?

 

in order to swap the 7mge coil you have to cut off the 3vze coil plug, and solder on the 7mge coil plug. I would solder and heat shrink the new wires on to the harness. It is a commitment to do that. Others have done the afm swap without the coil and had good results. If you are hesitant about cutting your wire harness than do not do the swap

 

Can't you just repin the connector? Seems easier unless the pins don't match up.