I recently acquired a 1986 Toyota pickup, and I am tired of troubleshooting and buying parts I don't need. It is an '86 4x4 with the 22r (I believe that's what it's called, correct me if I'm wrong. It's just the 4 cylinder.) I ONLY know how to work on my own truck, so I'm kinda at a loss when it comes to this Toyota. Anyway, I've been driving it for awhile now and it was running great up until about a week ago. I had been driving for about twenty minutes and it started cutting out like it was choking for fuel. It got progressively worse until it wouldn't run anymore. First instinct was the simple solution so I checked the fuel filter and it was clean. I let the truck cool off overnight, and then proceeded to try to run it the next day. Same story, it would run fine until it warmed up and then it did the same thing. Threw a fuel pump on it just for grins, but of course that wasn't it. Someone said to check the coil, which I wasn't sure on. (Seems like when my Dodge burns up a coil, it goes OUT, no spark at all. None of this kinda running and hit and miss stuff.) Coil is cheap though so I replaced it, but still having the same problem. The truck starts and runs fine for 10-20 minutes of driving, then starts to cut out and gets progressively worse until it dies. Let it sit for ten minutes and you can start it up and repeat the process. Someone said that it could possibly be the igniter? Does this sound fitting? That's a $400 part so I can't just throw a new one on to see if it is the issue. Any ideas? I'm driving this thing as a gas saver, but so far I'm contemplating just switching back to my full size, this thing is a headache!

 

Every Ignitor I have had go bad simply gave up while driving and that was it. Nothing at all.

Then of course, there is the price of one. Ridiculous!

I have found and bought them on Ebay for about $60-80 used (but guaranteed).


I would bet your problem is in the carb.

 

Check out this cheap gm module and coil to replace the ignitor http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?topic=85514.0. I havent tried it but many people have done this swap for $30

 

This replaced my stock coil and has a hot spark .Have you checked the sight glass on the carb to see if its full when it does this?And have you pulled a plug wire and checked for spark when it does this?

 

I tried the GM module trick and had little success. Others have, but I could not seem to keep the module more than a few months. Always had to carry a spare.

I like the D.U.I. distributor though. Last I checked they were like $400 but I believe it would be the best way to go.

 

So were they overheating?Did you mount it to large piece of aluminum for a heatsink and use the electrical grease on it?I was gonna do the gm module if mine ever failed but maybe not.

 

Not sure. I did like they said and mounted it on an aluminum bracket with the dielectric grease and all. They would just go bad. I tried different brands and got the most mileage from the Beck-arnley modules from Advance. Atleast they would warranty a few of them.

 

Oh and factory coil specs and testing is easy with a volt meter set to ohm. the primary resistance check is between the +brown wire and the - black wire and specs are 0.4-0.5k and the secondary resistance is between the +brown wire and the spark plug terminal on coil 8.8-11.5k and both test are done cold.Mine was out of spec and had the super coil just laying around.and the air gap of the pickup coil in the dist. is 0.008-0.016 in. if you want to check that too.

 

I did see were one guy used a computer cpu heatsink and fan to keep his cool and that worked out fine for him.

 

Is it a 22r (carb) or a 22re (efi)? Checking for spark on either would be the same. Wait until the truck dies out (and won't restart) and then check for spark. If no spark then you just solved half the problem and you don't have to waste any more money replacing fuel related parts. If you have spark then:

If it's carb then it has to be something in the carb not letting fuel into the combustion chambers.

If it's efi then it could be a number of things. TPS, AFM, ECU, injectors...you name it.

It's sounds to me like whatever it is it's something electrical that works fine for a while but slowly overheats and then quits until it cools off again. It doesn't sound like a fuel issue.