idler arm difference?
#1
idler arm difference?
ok i think this is my first post on this site. but anyways.
i am trying to figure out the difference between an 86-92 and a 93-95 idler arm. mine off of my 87 is shot i have a replacement that is from a 95 i want to put a gusset from downey but dont know which one to get. i can not see one bit of diffrance between the 2 (except the shot bushings).
thanks
jesse
i am trying to figure out the difference between an 86-92 and a 93-95 idler arm. mine off of my 87 is shot i have a replacement that is from a 95 i want to put a gusset from downey but dont know which one to get. i can not see one bit of diffrance between the 2 (except the shot bushings).
thanks
jesse
#2
zero difference, but if you go to a store like autozone you will find they give you a POS arm for the 86-92. If you ask them for 93-95 they give you an arm that looks exactly like the stock arm.
#4
Actually there is a difference, and the only time that it really matters (that I've found) is when putting on an idler arm gusset/brace or replacing the bushings in the idler arm. The later model one has a shaft that it rotates on and the two ears close to where it attaches to the relay rod are larger. If you try to put an idler brace for an 86-92 on an idler from an 93+, then you'll have to grind down the ears on the later/larger idler arm ears in order for the brace to fit. If you try the inverse, the brace/gusset may not clamp down on the arm properly.
The bushing/seal kits do NOT interchange if overhauling/refreshing an idler. All of the mounting holes DO interchange. I'm running a later/larger arm on my 86.
HTH
The bushing/seal kits do NOT interchange if overhauling/refreshing an idler. All of the mounting holes DO interchange. I'm running a later/larger arm on my 86.
HTH
#5
I just put on an idler arm brace, getting ready for the lift... Before the brace the car tracked a little right (bad alignment)... now it tracks a little left..? does this mean my idler arm bushings are bad?
#6
http://replacement.autopartswarehous...%20Arm&dp=true
is this what you are reffering to as the "ears" the little tabs?
as compared to the one in this picture?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/re...placement.html
is this what you are reffering to as the "ears" the little tabs?
as compared to the one in this picture?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/re...placement.html
#7
http://replacement.autopartswarehous...%20Arm&dp=true
is this what you are reffering to as the "ears" the little tabs?
as compared to the one in this picture?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/re...placement.html
is this what you are reffering to as the "ears" the little tabs?
as compared to the one in this picture?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/re...placement.html
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#8
Yes, those are the "ears". That's the first time I've seen a late 80's, early 90's idler arm w/o ears! The Downey brace/gusset uses the ears as a means of locking the arm to the brace. If they're not the right size or don't exist, the utility of the brace/gusset is substantially reduced.
#9
If you're idler bushings are shot, it won't stay in alignment very well and the shaft of the idler has some slop in it. Don't have the FSM here to look up what the tolerances are.
#10
#11
It's easy to tell if your idler arm bushings are bad, because if you have someone push on the side of the tire at the front (toe-in force) the idler arm will move around. If the bushings (and most everything else) is good, should be rock solid.
#12
Yes, those are the "ears". That's the first time I've seen a late 80's, early 90's idler arm w/o ears! The Downey brace/gusset uses the ears as a means of locking the arm to the brace. If they're not the right size or don't exist, the utility of the brace/gusset is substantially reduced.
just want to make sure i got itjesse
#13
IME the idler arm can bend 'up'... The arm itself has an angle to it but overtime the arm on my truck begins to bend up. It's obvious when its bad becuase the bushing will be smashed on the inner portion (towards the engine) and the outer portion of the bushing (towards the front of the truck) is normal.
I have Schucks replacement.. its about $60 with a lifetime warranty... It bends, i take it and they hand me a new one. hell, you could do the swap in the store parking lot.
*may not be everyone elses idea of a idler arm fix.. but for me its fine since im going to cut the worthless IFS off anyways, so till then i just get free idler arms =)
I have Schucks replacement.. its about $60 with a lifetime warranty... It bends, i take it and they hand me a new one. hell, you could do the swap in the store parking lot.
*may not be everyone elses idea of a idler arm fix.. but for me its fine since im going to cut the worthless IFS off anyways, so till then i just get free idler arms =)
Last edited by drew303; Feb 15, 2007 at 09:20 AM.
#14
#15
Drew, That's the most common direction that the arm gets stressed. Every time you put your passenger side front tire up against a rock at an angle where the tie rod has to push the tire out, that's applying pressure on the idler in an upward direction, particularly if you have BJ spacers or T-bars cranked. My last one snapped at the end of the shaft that the arm rotates on. With the gusset/brace, that is no longer the weak point. Now it's probably the head that connects to the relay rod.
#17
Drew, That's the most common direction that the arm gets stressed. Every time you put your passenger side front tire up against a rock at an angle where the tie rod has to push the tire out, that's applying pressure on the idler in an upward direction, particularly if you have BJ spacers or T-bars cranked. My last one snapped at the end of the shaft that the arm rotates on. With the gusset/brace, that is no longer the weak point. Now it's probably the head that connects to the relay rod.
Your keeping your IFS tho, this part doesn't exist on hy-steer hehe.
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