Chris_H

Hello all! My first post here. I have a 94 extended cab pickup 4x4, the suspension has been shot for a while. I use this car for road trips, which always entails offroad in the desert, often following drunk miners donkey trails, while carrying all the gear and supplies it takes to be self sufficient for a couple weeks. I have been thinking about what is needed for a couple years now. I put in an add-a-leaf abut 4 years ago, I can tell you how they suck, so no need to go there... Right now, the front fender is sitting 12" above the top edge of the tire rim and there is only about 1/2" of travel between the lower bump stop and the arm.

What I want is a full suspension makeover. As I mentioned, the truck is mainly loaded when it is used, starting with around 25 -35 gal of water before the fun begins, in addition to spare tires, and lots of other gear. Smooth, safe, comfortable highway travel is imperative. I would like a little more clearance than stock, as recently, we used every bit getting into the Maze, and needed a bit more off a side venture of the Cainseville Wash road.

In the research I have done so far, Alcan has come up for rear leaf springs, and I have spoken with them. The price seems fine, I am concerned with quality, and achieving my goals. Bilstein shocks all around, but which ones? I think the front torsion bars need replacing, I see Sway-a-Way makes some 25mm (?) bars. What should I be looking for? Any better torsion bars? How much additional lift can I get without causing any problems. I read something about an ADD system in the front of some Toyotas, I think mine included. This article said not to go over 14" rim to fender with ADD. I know there are bushings in numerous places, a sway bar, a steering damper.. probably some stuff I do not know about yet.

I will be doing all the work myself. My mechanical ability is strong, but I am not a professional automotive mechanic. Replacing the timing chain on this truck was a piece of cake. I have built about 30 VW motors, etc, blah, blah... can fix ( or render inoperable ) about anything.

Can anyone who has gone down this road please share some advise, and experience. I am looking for reliable, with as much performance as possible at the same time.

This truck has 167,000 mi. on it right now, and is running pretty well, suspension aside.. I will be going through parts of the drive train, wheel bearings, etc.

Thank you all in advance!

Chris_H

Oh, I guess I could also use a recommendation for wheels, as all 4 are currently bent, again... I do not need huge bling, just sturdy, and decent. I think I have bent about 10 wheels so far. ( I used to live on a dirt road...) The 4 current bent wheels were damaged while carefully driving into the Maze..

Chris_H

really? no one???

BMcEL

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-first-201994/

Chris_H

Cool... thank you. Thats what I needed.. I did search, and found a lot of info that did not pertain to me, which is why I started this thread. I joined this forum because I have found that forums are one of the very best way to find current, accurate, and cutting edge info.

Thanks for the links...

Am I correct in thinking that 33" tires will reduce highway performance, and are more of a PITA than a 31" except when that extra inch of clearance is concerned?

BeMiceElf

iTrader: (1)

Look into OME (old man emu), if you haven't already. Try and go with one of their complete kits.

As far as the 33's go, it depends on what gears you have and how much weight you are hauling around.

TNRabbit

How are you bending steel wheels??

Chris_H

I wish I knew.. Definitely it has something to do with rough roads, and carrying some weight. One of the local Les Schwab guys told me he sees it regularly. (Lots of serious dirt roads around here leading to peoples homes, including mine. The potholes in the Spring ice are not too friendly either) It shows up like a feeling of unbalanced wheels, when the wheel is put on the balancing machine, it shows itself to be bent, not out of round, but not true in the vertical plane anymore. Not like a catastrophe, but annoying enough to warrant replacing the wheel. This recent trip, a suspicion grew that my sagging suspension, and its limited travel might be a factor in the bent wheels.

Not from driving like a maniac, that's not me. I drive more like a granny, except that I tend not to turn around if I think there is something to see at the end of the road.

lastname_firstname

where are you located? when you say dirt road, do you mean dirt road thats been recently graded and has the occasional pothole here n there, or are you referring to some gnarly washed out trail roads that send you and everything in your truck up and down and all around?

donomite49

check out total chaos catalog and then look into blazeland for cheaper longtravel suspension.
its where i'm going when i do my suspension.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...tickys-242840/

:wabbit2:

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

Id probably go OME heavy leafs and OME t-bars if you're always loaded and mobbing down dirt roads. I like my OME medium leafs but don't always carry loads. When I carry a lot of weight it of course sags (load of damp compost maybe 1000lbs???) but handles the weight way better than before. On my truck I'm around 22.5" center of axle to fender in back and 22" in front. I also have OME shocks, bj spacers, and stock rear shackle.

I'd probably go with BJ spacers for extra down travel, but with OME tbars you could lower it down 1-2" that you added with spacers since the tbars are stiff. Rear I would keep stock shackle length to keep height down as well. If tou go medium leafs maybe go longer shackle to compensate drop with your load. With new, stiffer leafs and shocks you could probably remove or make disconnects for swaybar - way better ride IMO.

As for your wheel problem I dunno what to say. Dunno what size wheel you have now but maybe you have too wide of wheels and not enough section width to give the sidewall bulge that protects your wheels? Also, newer offroad tires have a fat lip to protect the wheel. Steel wheels are fairly indestructible but aluminum are lighter and easier on everything. If you're not needing bigger tires and the extra 1" clearance, and since youd need regearing - then maybe just stay with a 31-32" tire for now since they're cheaper, lighter, more readily available, etc. also I'd recommend a quality tire with thick sidewalls for the just in case factor. I like my Toyos since they have some of the thickest sidewalls and give me peace of mind. Lots of good tires to choose from these days.

Good luck!

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah you mentioned ADD...unless you need it for "4wd on the fly"; install some manual hubs, disconnect that system, and lock the actuator to always engaged. It'll have less moving parts and should improve fuel economy slightly for the hwy.