highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

Just weld the crack and the failed weld. Problem solved. If you get new get the DT.

grotto

Problem with re-welding is the collector leak is way inside where all the tubes join and impossible to get at without taking it apart. Plus, if patched, I'll still have an old header with proven unreliability. I was thinking DT too.

grotto

Look what showed up today:



Inside the box, Tri-Y goodness:



I ordered this a few weeks ago, had to wait for them to do a ceramic coating run. Going to have the install done by the shop I use as I'm not prepared to deal with the possibility of pulled or broken studs. Besides, one of the mechanics wants my old header to run open in his race car and is going to do the install in exchange, so no labor cost to me.

The header and transition pipe are supposed to be a direct bolt in to the stock cat. I'm thinking that after 170K miles my cat is probably getting plugged up and was thinking it might not be a bad idea to replace it with a new high flow cat. Then, as long as I've gone this far, I may as well install a new O2 sensor so everything down the line will be brand new.

Any thoughts?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I don't think you'll see 20 mpg ever again. But replacing the cat and the o2 is a good idea.

grotto

No more 20 mpg's? Bummer. I'm at just under 21 now. I don't know though, I'm a grandfather and tend to drive like one, usually a long line of cars with frustrated drivers behind me.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Well, with your grandfather factor it may be feasible. Most people who tend to do full exhuast or even a loud muffler tend to stomp on it just to make noise.

2DoorJoRunner

so much truth in that statement

2012MongolRally

grotto, I was facing a similar problem when I started building my charity rig for some future person to receive my truck in Mongolia.

I didn't want to weld the cracks (basically an entire separation at the collector) because personally I would feel bad giving the truck some farmer/ villager that would later have a truck fail on him (even though the exhaust leak won't kill the truck it certainly would rob some power he might need towing food to market).

I went with buying a new stock manifold and am trying to source a downpipe now. There wasn't anything trick about the engine in the truck that I bought so I figured it was best to go back to stock. I like the set of pipes you choose to pick up for your rig, and thanks for solving the problem of what brand your header was, you helped me solve who made my header that came on my truck originally too.

Picture A


Picture B

grotto

So true. While I enjoy a nice exhaust tone as much as the next guy, for road driving I like to keep it nice and smooth. Smooth starts, smooth stops, smooth shifts, keeping the engine RPM's in the sweet spot. Any lead footed ham fisted driver can stomp on the gas, stomp on the brakes and mash the gears. If my passengers head is bobbing or they're reaching for the grab bars I'm not doing it right. Smooth and fast always wins.

[QUOTE=2012MongolRally;51894923]grotto, I was facing a similar problem when I started building my charity rig for some future person to receive my truck in Mongolia.

I didn't want to weld the cracks (basically an entire separation at the collector) because personally I would feel bad giving the truck some farmer/ villager that would later have a truck fail on him (even though the exhaust leak won't kill the truck it certainly would rob some power he might need towing food to market).

I went with buying a new stock manifold and am trying to source a downpipe now. There wasn't anything trick about the engine in the truck that I bought so I figured it was best to go back to stock. I like the set of pipes you choose to pick up for your rig, and thanks for solving the problem of what brand your header was, you helped me solve who made my header that came on my truck originally too.

Hey Mongol, Glad this thread helped you out. That's what community is all about eh? Considering your trucks eventual destination, I wholeheartedly agree. That farmer will have a much easier time of it dealing with stock parts. BTW, your charity event sounds fascinating, I'll check out your link.

grotto

Stopped by the shop this morning to schedule the header install. Rather than buying a new cat first, we'll have a look inside the old one to see how she looks. Typically they'll start clogging or burning out from the inlet end. Gets back to the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mantra. Gonna hold off on the O2 sensor for now as well since it is an easy replacement. Install is scheduled for tomorrow.

grotto

Installation completed!!

Glad I had a shop do the install (especially since it only cost me the old header) as there were a couple snags to overcome. The header came supplied with a plug to cover an air port in the center of the head. The way I understand it, the plug is supposed to seat low enough for the header flange to overlay it, but on my truck the plug stuck out too far, so they had to re-use the old bolt with some type of pipe thread sealant. If that doesn't hold they said to bring it back and they'll get it sealed up..

Also, the transition pipe didn't quite line up with the flange on the cat so they had to put a slight bend in it. Plus, the slip joint in the transition pipe was extended out to where it was unlikely that a clamp would have held, so they welded it, which they were going to do anyway. The stock cat and O2 sensor looked perfect so we kept them.

So, what I ended up with is the Doug Thorley header and transition pipe which is at 2-1/4" going into the cat, then 2" pipe from cat to tailpipe with a cheap Flowtech Raptor turbo muffler tucked high and tight up under the bed. The catback portion was installed a few weeks ago.

The reason for the cheap muffler is that if I don't like the sound, I'm not out much if I decide to ditch it for something else. For a cheap muffler, the Raptor had tons of positive reviews with the only drawback being a probable shorter life. The reasons I went with 2" pipe from the cat back are A: After the cat, the exhaust gases have cooled enough that you don't need as much pipe volume to breathe B: Since I don't plan to modify my intake for increased air volume, there was no need to run larger pipe. C: After talking with several specialists, with my set-up there were no HP gains to be had with larger pipe. D: Smaller pipes are quieter.

So far I'm very happy with the way this system has turned out. The exhaust tone is satisfactory and there is very little droning, which only occurs at low RPM's and most noticeable while decelerating. In the end I spent almost $700 which is much more than I had originally hoped, but it was all for work that needed to be done. I'd have never done this if the repairs were not needed.

Here's the pics:

rworegon

Looks good.

It'll be interesting to see if you get a CEL due the 02 sensor sitting fairly high up out of the exhaust gas stream. I'm guessing DT has not had problems so it won't be an issue.