I will link this to may main thread later but I felt this needed its own topic.

I really do. The Album has many more pictures. But I'm thinking this is bad / to many problems.
There is my thinking.
head decked 40 bucks
head pressure tested 40 bucks
new valves 80 bucks
total 160 bucks.
Its my understanding that a crack does not mean it leaking "Yet" . Now i can get a new one Toyota 22R 22RE 22REC Cylinder Head Complete W/ Valves And Camshaft for $273.95 & FREE Shipping.
so put in 160 into a old head that might fail soon or put about 100 more for a new/ good one.



This is looks like a breach in the fire ring.


Cracked between the Valves?



Looks like each cylinder has it's own problem or 2.

So should i even bother the have this pressure tested and if it passes to have it milled? What about the fire ring problem. Or am i just confused on how all this works.

Also the block passed the feeler gage test so that is good.

 

I would just buy a new head instead of working with that one. Some heads can be bought with all new gaskets, camshaft and a complete seal kit.

 

Buy a head from someone who stands behind what they sell go with engnbldr

http://www.engnbldr.com/toyota-heads.html

 

Agree buy a new head .

The money you spend having those cracks welded then machining new valve seats.

Just get a new head from Engine builder

Complete new head with Cam win win !

Being this is a 22re low output engine you might get away just putting the head back on.

My luck it would fail

 

Agreed, time for a new head. Cracks only get worse with time.

 

that head's not worth fixing. i'd pull the valves and stuff out and make a mailbox holder or something out of it.

 

I think I figured out why the head failed. It was from some Metallic Seal Up stuff.

I'm not sure how to get this out of my system once i get the new head....Would a radiator flush do it?

Head gasket looks a little plugged up.
Top ( I think)


Bottom (I think)

 

imho, the only stuff one should ever use (as a temporary fix) is the heat cure epoxy pellets, followed by a back-flush, as it only sets up where the leak is and temps are higher than 120, or whatever the temp is above that that sets it. so, that being said, back-flushing is the best way without hot-tanking it. you need a faucet adapter for your garden hose (aquarium water change system or waterbed kit will have the adapter, but you can get the adapter separately, usually at pet stores and other places, so you can attach a garden hose. hot water for a bit and then detergent, even simple green and another flush. having the head off makes this quite difficult, but at the least you can back-flush the heater cores and radiator and use buckets of hot water with detergent flush right into the coolant jackets of the block. remove the lower radiator hose and drain the coolant, then a couple buckets of hot water into the water jackets, then detergent solution with a rubber glove tied, or rubber-banded over where the lower hose attached and let sit for 10 min or so, then pull off and flush a few more times. the cores you need to have heat selector on hot, and the hot water hose flushing where the coolant returns and draining where it attaches by the thermostat (from the hose, not the thermostat) it's kind of like painting a car in your garage. it get's absolutely everywhere, like you lighting and sockets, stereo/cdplayer, air compressor, heater, etc, etc... but at least you can flush out any loose crud to keep it from becoming more of a problem later.

 

New Cylinder head is in the mail and on its way

 

Ok the new head is here But its different

Old Head:
Flat where the valves are but if you look at my old one they are domed shaped. Did i get the wrong head?





New Head:



I went whit a cheaper head do to being broke right now.
Also its got ridges on the side.
Did I screw my self?



Here is a picture of my block and pistons at Top dead center.

 

Heres a couple shots of the engbldr heads.I would use it

 

The bottom on looks exactly like the one i got.

 

idk what you are talking about... they look the same to me, aside from the casting fins, but they mean squat other than added rigidity to the section.

 

Looks the same as long as the ports are the same. The exterior is somewhat insignificant. If you got it from Ted at Engnblder, he wouldn't sell you something that would work for your yota.

 

I would use it if it was me, from what I see it should work.