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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

I need fuel!

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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 07:16 PM
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From: Santa Rosa,CA
I need fuel!

Hey guys, fuel question..If the fuel rails were disconected from when the motor was torn appart on a 90 3.0 motor, about how long does the pump take to repressure the lines?

I understand the fuel pump doesnt come on untill the motor is cranking, but it seems I've cranked and Cranked, killed the battery twice and a couple sputters here and there, but its not fireing...?

Is there a schrader valve in line, I can see how much pressure im getting?
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 08:16 PM
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Hey, you should of had fuel there within 10-15 second after cranking. Is the air flow meter plugged in? The fuel pump is turned on when the AFM door is opened.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 08:37 PM
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yes air flow meter is plugged in, but Ill double check in the morning. ..Yeah, thats what I thought too, about 10-15 seconds of cranking, but no go yet.. ?
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 08:39 PM
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will the fuel pump come on, if I manually open the maf door when the key is on position?
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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yeah it should, i would check to see if u blew the fuse or a bad relay, switch the fuel one with a different one from in there.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 08:52 PM
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i am having the same problem on my 87 4runner.... fuel pump check is a placed jumper wire on B+ and Fp Terminal ( for a 1987 22re ) , with key to on postion u should hear the hum of the fuel pump pumping, no hum u got bad pump or bad wire to pump.

bad wire to pump = check voltage and continuity between wire from pump to fuse/battery
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 11:54 AM
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Ok if I turn the key on, (motor not running) and I jump the 2 connectors, the fuel pump manually turns on.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 11:59 AM
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From: tacoma wa
bad relay or door on afm not working. have u checked to make sure the afm is good?
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 12:40 PM
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
And there is fuel in the tank, right? Don't laugh...another guy recently was having a similar problem and, BINGO, the tank was empty.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 01:46 PM
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haha! yes, I have half a tank of fuel. I will check to see if the afm door is opening, it was resting about a month, on the worktable standing up, so maybe it got stuck? I will check and give an update. But I think we are on to something, it seems when I jumped the 2 wires and manually filled the gas lines it started to run better, but died shortly after, Now Im thinking the fuel pump is not getting the signal to turn on ..
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 02:24 PM
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u said u just got done doing a rebuild on the top end right? have u checked to make sure that both ground leads are hooked up on the motor too?? one back on firewall to top intake plentum and secong one from drivers side finder well to heads between 2nd and 3rd spark plug, one of mine broke off once and it stopped the fuel from coming.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 07:30 PM
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I will check the grounds in the morning, But that is a good idea of where to start, I had a 22re motor that would run, then would cut out, run great then cut out, turns out the ground to the coil was bad/loose. Now I think about it, the symptoms are almost the same, No fuel, No throttle response...Thanks Ill double check and retitghten the grounds in the morning...
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 07:17 AM
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From: Tobermorey, Ontario
There is more than 1 ground connection on the 22re and is it really necessary to have all three grounds connected. I mean as long as the main battery is grounded and the block is grounded, shouldn't eveything else be grounded too? only resason i ask is because i have starting issues too, and i have only 2 of 3 grounds are hooked up. The one ground close to firewall (rear of head) is really hard to get at.

Also how long is gas ok to sit in the tank? will it affect spark if it is old gas?

Last edited by deejaysterling; Dec 31, 2010 at 07:18 AM.
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 08:12 AM
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The reason for more than one ground wire is each ground completes a circut loop. Grounds are very important, bad grounds can make you think you're chasing ghost like symptoms
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 09:49 PM
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Thanks, I did more tests and I'm definatly getting fuel, I disconected the bolt on the fuel rail on the driver side, turned the key to on, manually open the afm door and it turned the pump on and definatly got gas! Lol bout 30 psi of it.

Yes thanks forcthe heads up on the distributor, just printed out the fsm on installing the distributor so I'll go through that tomarro
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 08:04 AM
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From: Tobermorey, Ontario
it should still start with distributor off 180 degrees, but it will run wacky.
i think u got a bad afm....and i think i have the same problem.. i'm going to look and see how much a new one is...i'm guessing it's going to be pricey. I heard the afm is not repairable?
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 08:53 AM
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Originally Posted by some drunk guy
Thanks, I did more tests and I'm definatly getting fuel
The rail is getting fuel, but if the injectors are not firing your engine is not.
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 05:44 PM
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OK guys, problem solved. Razed wins. The distributor was installed incorectly. The outer distributor marks were aligned with the block, but the inside gears were not bout 90* off. I removed the distributor, alighed the gear tooth mark, with the dist shaft mark, then installed at TDC. Bingo.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 09:07 AM
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From: Tobermorey, Ontario
congrats , on trouble shooting guys! i am surprised it was your distributor..

makes me think mine is in wrong too.... how did you know you got the distributor in right spot? marks? i wanna try this on mine. but i'm fairly confident that i put my distributor back on the exact way it came off...
( i marked it as well )
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 11:31 AM
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All distributors are marked to start at Top Dead Center TDC. Every distributor on the gear has 1 tooth that is easily missed which has to be aligned with the rest of the motor at at TDC. If your distributor is correct at TDC your rotor should be bout 11:00
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