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I know what problem I'm having with the running lights - now looking for a solution

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Old 02-12-2013, 01:35 PM
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I know what problem I'm having with the running lights - now looking for a solution

Ladies and Gentlemen:

My frankenstein truck doesn't have any running tail lights - like you turn on the headlights - they work fine, brake, reverse and over head lights work fine, but the night time running lights? No dice.

Tried tracking it for weeks, searched the forums here...wiggled wires, trailer hitches, connectors and came back to the fuse box and Eureka! The answer was right there in front of me the whole time, the tail relay was missing:

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...212_165253.jpg

See that part where it says "Tail Light" and it looks like the male parts of a plug? That's what I've been looking for high and low. It's two parallel male parts with one male part on the direct left perpendicular to the other two.

Now, I've tried hotwiring it twice, the first time worked till the connectors gave out, the second time damned near set my car on fire (if I cannot eat crow in front of you tinkerers then who can I?)

The fellow I bought the truck from in North Carolina (a Gent named Wild Bill) said when I got the truck that he had hard wired the running lights in (I'm half hoping he'll see this post and write and tell me how he did it)- only I have no idea how he managed to do it...my attempts...well...let's say I'd like to have a truck after finishing the job.

I've tried two link PAL fuses, neither one work, but they spark if something metal touches them, so I know they have electricity going to them. So I guess I'm asking: What goes there, and do any of you fine folks have a spare 3-pronged one laying about that one might be able to purchase or otherwise acquire? I really don't want to have to go to the dealer, and until I know what to look for on RockAuto/PartsGeek - you know? So if anyone knows what this piece or part is called and might be able to clue me in, it'd be much appreciated.

Thank you all SO much for your time and efforts!!!! I'd be lost without y'all.
Joel
Old 02-12-2013, 01:42 PM
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Oh and when I hotwired it to a manual on/off switch the dimmers worked, the dash lights worked, everything worked like it was brand new again...I don't know if that helps...
Old 02-12-2013, 01:53 PM
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Unless you are purposely trying to burn up your truck, hot wiring a relay is not the way to go!
The reason there is a relay in the first place is because the current draw of the tailight circuit is to high for a normal switch.
Go to the junk yard find the relay from a similiar vehicle and plug it in. The relay/fuse panel looks damaged in the picture you may have to replace that in order to get the tailight relay to snap into place and maintain connection like it is supposed to.
Old 02-12-2013, 08:42 PM
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Pretty sure the relay is attached to the back side of that cover. You'll need to source that three pronged connector from the salvage yard, parts store, or fab one up with three spade connectors some heat shrink tubing and yer whitlin' knife if you want to get fancy and put a seperator in the middle.

You'll also probably want to search for the 1990-1995 4runner FSM it has the wiring diagrams but they're also available on the autozone website.
Old 02-12-2013, 08:44 PM
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Thanks...so nothing actually "plugs" into (i.e. female connectors) to make those things work that I can go to a pick n pull and magically find?
Old 02-12-2013, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Psyfodeus
Thanks...so nothing actually "plugs" into (i.e. female connectors) to make those things work that I can go to a pick n pull and magically find?
Was just a guess it's a plug, the rest are plugs. It's too cold and dark I don't wanna go look to be honest.

Yeah if you got a salvage yard handy just go take whatevers there Take a look around in the donor if you need for locate the wires that go there so you have an idea where they're supposd to come from.

I'm not too lazy to look in the book atleast Yep relays are on the back of that plastic stuff. The terminals are..
1: to switch
2: from battery
3: to tail fuse

#1 is vertical, #2 is the bottom, #3 is the top.
Old 02-12-2013, 09:04 PM
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P.S. #1 is a R-B (Red-brown), #2 is white, and I dunno about #3 it is maybe internal. put a meter between #3 and both sides of the tail fuse to find out.
Old 02-12-2013, 09:09 PM
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Alright -was going to head to the picknpull on Thursday and just yank every fusebox they have that's close to my year - they have 4 Toyota trucks (including a 94, oh please let it be an SR5!) to choose from so hopefully, fingers crossed, they will have what I'm looking for.

Additionally, if they are nearly complete trucks - I might pull a couple of other things off - like leaf springs...oh my lord how that truck needs springs all around - maybe then I can actually take it on the highway without feeling like the damned thing is going to fall apart >55mph.
Old 02-12-2013, 09:22 PM
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hah that's a whole other issue..

Grooved pavement? Front right nose dives?

What you want from the yard is a spare torsion bar adjusting bolt, they're actualy pretty cheap from the dealer.

Find a nice flat and level(garage) and measure the distance to the pavement from the front of the bolt on the lower control arm. Right side will sag because of the fuel tank location. You'll need to lube up the torrsion adjusting bolt a few times in advance.

With measurements in hand, jack up the front end and jack stand the frame. Break the lock nut loose if you're able. And tighten the torsion bar adjusting nut, it's a fine thread 16-24(or so) threads per inch. So one turn for every 1/16th the right side is sagging.

Drop it to the floor bounc it a few times to settle it and measure again, repeat lift and crank as nessasary.

Just replacing the shocks will do wonders also but it'll still load the new ones unevenly if you don't get it leveled out.

The 4wd have better shock locations so get less body roll from this issue.

P.S. yeah I had that problem, people were scared to ride in it on the hwy

*EDIT* I use my four way lug wrench for that, no need to spend money on a socket yer hardly ever gonna use

Last edited by Co_94_PU; 02-12-2013 at 09:24 PM.
Old 02-12-2013, 09:28 PM
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Welcome to my world - I can handle her, but it's a white-knuckled experience. I know I need leaf springs because I've got negative bend in the front and it sags back and to the right when it's sitting there. Been like that since I got her.

I suppose I should mention (as I think you're the only one reading this) it's a frankenstein truck: straight axle frame of an 80's truck, front and and interior all from a 4Runner (I ignore the idiot lights after finding that fun fact out) 94 SR5 body with a 22RE (with no vacuum, air conditioning, etc. from a 1992 DLX, and she sits up on 30x10.5's New Rancho shocks in front, Monroes in back.

I love her to death - but the rattle and roll is troublesome. And getting parts for her is a serious pain, because I don't know which component was pulled off of what truck and when...she didn't exactly come with an instruction book - hence how my friends have dubbed her "Frankie Two-Trips." because when you get parts for her, you always have to return them to get the right ones.
Old 02-12-2013, 09:35 PM
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Ooohhh A classic, well the front end atleast, yeah you need springs. Sorry I just assumed, and just noticed you didn't say.

There should be some info floating around here on a between the rails gas tank swap, that is a big help for the uneven load. Damn sure I ain't putting on enough beer belly to even that out.

"Frankie Two-Trips." because when you get parts for her, you always have to return them to get the right ones.
Bahah. "yeah I need a doodat for an 81 er 92 er 94 toyota pickup" "Uhm which year?" "Yeah like i said this one that one or another"
Old 02-12-2013, 09:36 PM
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Alright - will report back here after the picknpull expedition - hope you have your e-mail alerts on...
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