Learning

I just finished putting on the head on the cylinder block, timing chain, water pump, oil pump and the timing cover. I am also in the process of putting on the harmonic balancer and tighten it up with the crankshaft bolt. I understand the crankshaft bolt needs to be tighten at 119 foot lbs. How can I tighten the crankshaft bolt while the motor/engine is on the engine stand without the engine stand falling? I thought about having the cherry picker or engine hoist on top of the two hooks on the head cylinder as a safety support measure to stop from the engine stand from falling. On another hand, after completing the necessary components on the engine prior to putting the engine back on the engine bay, I could put the engine on the ground and tighten the crankshaft bolt to avoid any mishap of falling off the engine stand. Could I use a strong bar to slide inside the camshaft gear sprocket openings to prevent from the crankshaft moving while tightening the crankshaft bolt without any damage to the engine components? Any comments on this issue is greatly appreciated. Thanks to all for reading.

scope103

The same way you always do. And no, it's not with it hanging on an engine hoist or sitting on the ground. And I certainly wouldn't risk wailing on the the webs of the camshaft sprocket.

You need a tool to hold the crank from turning as you tighten the bolt. There are many excellent variants found on this site, but I am partial to this one: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/ To make it cost me approximately $0.00; if I had to buy the angle iron it would have been a little more. FWIW, I've also used it on a Subaru.

Other (usually) good methods, like sliding nylon rope through the sparkplug hole to fill the crankcase above the piston, won't work for you as the engine is "loose." A fabricated tool will work every time, in or out of the vehicle, going in or coming out.

In 1993, the crankbolt torque for a 22re is 116 ft-lbs. http://web.archive.org/web/201210231.../8timingch.pdf Put your make/model/engine/transmission/body style in your signature, so you don't have to keep repeating it. No point making your readers guess.

Learning

Hi scope103, Thank you for your comments/feedback/advice.

Right now I have ordered a new timing chain cover because the two threads, one for the water pump and oil pump, (inside the hole threads) were stripped while I was tightened to the appropriate foot lbs.. The bolts themselves were fine and no stripping. I tried to use the helicoils methods, only to make it worse. The lesson I learned is to be very careful when bolting any aluminum to avoid stripping threads as well as the bolts. Will follow up on the tightening crankshaft bolt as soon as I get the timing cover and the gaskets. Darn it!!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

If you use the servicing tool there shouldn't be any force trying to tip the engine and stand over.

Without the SST you want to put your wrench handle vertical between the feet of the stand. If you have your foot on the leg of the stand and pull towards you any tipping force is negated in this configuration.

You can use the same stance with your SST if it's long enough to brace behind the engine stand leg.

se7enine

iTrader: (2)

I used a spanner wrench once. Bolt the hole side to the back of the crank and use another bolt somewhere on the block to lock the spanner end.

T&Z_Auto

My suggestion for tightening crankshaft bolt, is to use a pry bar wedged between engine mount bracket and hold as you tighten bolt. I've used this method many times and it hasn't failed me yet. I'm open to other suggested methods of doing it. Also, if you're changing out and/or replacing timing chain cover, I suggest you replace head gasket as well, you're already half way there. Oil leak between timing chain cover and cylinder head will occur. Guarantee. Good luck and hope this helps.