snap-on

So for those of you who may know, ive been working on a rebuild of my 3vze sence last fall in my 4runner.

Its been quite the journey.

so this afternoon, after more hrs of F'n with the EGR and Reed valve hookups than i care to admit, i finnally got everything hooked up. After i finished with that nighmare the rest fell into place with in like 30-45 min.

so with great trepidation i had the wife turn the key. AND! ....

it growned as it cranked over at about half speed about 7 times.

great, half dead battery....

so get the bat charger out.... let it sit for about an hr. hit it again..... this time it cranks better, but after 7-10 times i stopped to let it charge some more. (no signs of life)

So i was kinda hopeing that i would hit the key, it'd turn over a half dozen times and roar to life... (open headers at the moment)

So not to get to discourged, how long should it take for the system to "reset" ie reprime the fuel system all that kinda stuff.

ie how long till it should start?

(i really want this to work!)

dwh91102

This is how I do it, with the coil unpluged from the distributor, crank the motor over untill you see the oil pressure come up then stop. Hook the coil back up, and also the fuel system will be primed now. The motor should fire right up now. Make sure you have everything hooked up, even the air intake hose to the afm. If it doesn't even attempt to fire, make sure your getting spark and fuel at the cylinders. If you are getting fire, and fuel, then make sure you have the distributor installed right... Check all this and get back with us. Just my .02, but i'd go get a new battery.

snap-on

thanks for the heads up, its an optima red to btw.

yes everything is hooked up that it should need. including intake, afm etc.

i havent put the radiator/fan/front plastic on in till i veryify my timming is correct.

ill report back this afternoon.

anyone want to weigh in on breakin? Its something ive searched and havnt come up with any good suggestions. (ive got some google info though)

AH64ID

Thats what we do with our motors that sit a long time, usually takes about 20 seconds of cranking on the RE for me to feel I can fire. We also do this on our 3406 CAT diesel in our fishing boat in alaska, that sits 9 mo a year.... about 30 seconds and she has oil pressure, and the fuel pump is ready to go.

As far as breaking, the only thing I have heard deals with new cams, which you probally have. You are supposed to rev it at like 2000 or 2500 (I think) for several minutes to prevent mishaping the lobes. Call a local engine shop and bug 'em...

Thats gonna sound sweet open header.

dwh91102

as for breaking in a rebuild, just first 500 miles don't drive it at a constant rpm, and drive up and down hills and let the engine do the breaking when going down hill, this helps seat the rings. Other than that just don't go out rippin the %$&* out of it till after about a 500 miles. Change your oil after 500 miles to.

Asha'man

Above 2000-2500 rpms for at least 20 minutes is what I've always heard for new cams.

Brian

snap-on

thanks guys... no new cams, but new rings.

i pulled the coil and cranked it for 20 sec or so. put the coil on and it didnt sound right.

Its raining now and the weather has helped dampen the spirits.

i might have the destrubtor out 180 but i was virtually POSTIVE i had it right when i put it back together. Even went to the trouble of cutting an old distrubtor cap in half to check the location of the rotor when i had a screwdriver stuck down the #1. I could have sworn i had everything right.

well try again this afternoon if the rain lets up.

and yes an oil AND filter change are scheduled between 4-500 miles.

dwh91102

after you put the timing belt back on, did you crank the motor over twice and check your timing marks again. Something is way off if its not even trying to fire, just remember stay clam, and it will all come together

snap-on

ya after i got the starter hooked up before i had all the other vacume hoses and crap hooked up i hit the key and turned it over a few times to make shure my starter connections were good. (kinda tight around the headers). After that i took the front crank pully off again to double check the marks as the mark on the crank pully to black plastic doesnt seem to right, but the crank gear lined up perfectly with the oil pump mark sooooo....

dwh91102

I wished you lived a little closer, i'd come help ya out.

snap-on

ITS ALIVE


damn it sounds like a big block with open headers!

god its great to hear.

what did i do you ask?

nothing

i just trusted my gut that i had everything together and just kept cranking, it sounded weird as it was trying to fire... then put.....

put crank put

put put put cank put and she lit off!

ill see if i can grab a sound clip.

oh btw the throttle response (just a small blip) is ausome with no accessories.

idled well, and throttle pick up is correct so im confident my timming is close enough for now. Ill do a tune up after breakin.

dwh91102

yeah they sound like a p-51 mustang with open headers, you'll notice if you drive it like that they have noooooo lowend power. Yeah when we first fired mine up, we were pretty amazed a 6cyl could sound like that. Congrats on gettin it fired up!!

AH64ID

Congrats!!!!!

breknraj

Snap-On,

I didn't notice if you said the Red Top Optima was new, or the one you had when you started your rebuild. I've been using Red Tops for about 18 or so years, now, and if it hasn't been cycled regularly, chances are that it is dead meat (if it's the old one). They are great batteries, but if they are allowed to go flat, they don't seem to come back from the dead, in my experience.

The symptoms that you described in the first post sounds a lot like the couple of times that I've had them go bye-bye. Not even chargers or jumpstarts seem to help, much. I'm glad to hear that you got it going, but if it is an old Red Top, you might want to trade it in for a new one (if there is any warranty left on it!)

Good luck on finishing up and wheeling soon!

snap-on

ya the red top doesnt look like it will be around long. It doesnt take to a charge real well ... we will just have to see.

I think it has to do with the sealed design. YOu can hear it vent H through the breathers and normally you would want to check your water level after it vents... so its probibly low on water which is why it wont hold a charge like a new one.

mmmmm sound clip

http://snjschmidt.com/video/4runner.wmv

thanks for all the help guys!

AH64ID

My yellow top is indestructible!!! I have had it in 3 rigs... and in 2004 I left my runner parked for six weeks, with the dome light on, before the battery died it melted the dome light cover. When I got home the battery registered .010 volts. It took 3 battery charges before an expensive marine charger realized it was a battery. 24 hours later it started my rig, and had been running strong since.