Hi, just wanted to start a post and see what tips I could get on better fuel mileage. I have a 1995 4x4 pickup 22re that is ok on gas but there is always room for improvement. Fuel is expensive.

Has anyone had any luck with the tornado fuel saver that goes in your air intake?

 

u could just not have a lead foot u know lol tune up restore gas mileage to whats your mpg

 

I drive trying to save my brakes, when I know I have a stop or turn ahead I let off the accelerator long before I get there. I know it annoys some people but...

Keeping it tuned, drive 55, keep tires aired up, and make sure the O2 sensor and other emission controls work properly. That is about all there is.

 

Like the idea. I know theres lots of other posts on this, and its kind of over talked about. But doesn't hurt to get some more input. Ive noticed a lot of people claiming better MPG's than I know to be even possible with yota's. What are you getting right now?

 

. . . . . . . . . ummmmmm for some reason my truck wont run regular fuel at factory timing. so i usually run 2-3 deg. btdc with 87 octacane

i recently switched to factory 5deg. running premium 91 octane fuel.

unless some other variable changed, i got better fuel mileage with slightly retarded timing. sounds retarded (lol) but give er a try i guess

 

You see that long skinny pedal? Yeah that one... Keep your foot off of it :p:

But seriously. Like posted. You want to keep the fastest speed at or below 2000RPM on the highway, as that is normally when engines are most efficient.
Make sure you have good quality spark plugs and wires. Good cap and rotor.
I've heard of a fuel additive that people I know swear by. Its call star-tron. Supposed to be an ethanol cure. I've never used it though.

Can anyone here tell me if the bosch platinum spark plugs actually gain any fuel mileage in these trucks? I've heard they do. But again something I've never tired.

I've never had any luck changing my timing. Factory always worked best. Although now that I've deleted my EGR and PAIR valves that might change. I wont know till I actually get it put back together.

 

and btw i think the tornado thing is a joke, i dont care what it does to the airflow, i see it as a blockage and therefore, a flow inhibitor.

even with more airflow, your computer will throw more fuel in to compensate. increased fuel efficiency is claimed because "theoreticaly", your gained power/torque will allow sooner shifts, maintaining lower rpm, hopefully consuming less fuel.. . . .

 

and dont forget when factoring your fuel mileage, added tire size increases not only your actual speed relative to the speed-o-meter, it increases your miles relative to your trip meter. this is without a corrective gear ratio.

for instance i run 31" tires on a truck that came factory with 28" thats about a 9% increase. i thought my truck got horrible mileage untill i factored that 9% into distance traveled per tank. my corrected average is about 18mpg, all city

edit: and mountains

 

Botch platinum has always given me less per tank. I haven't tried them in a toyota but I had a few vehicles i put then in and always seems to get about 20 miles less per tank. I always got better with denso or nkg.

 

x2 denso or ngk

stick with factory, without somehow upgrading to sequential port injection, i see no aftermarket anything that would increase mileage

 

keep tuned up, advance the ignition if possible, air filter clean, etc
use only as much throttle as you need to keep speed even if you have extra power-
something my mom told me was imagine an egg under your left foot- don't squish it
'cause you'll have to clean it up
anticipate gear changes- choose the gear that keeps your engine near the torque peak,
don't use the engine for braking unless you need to, even if you can hold speed on a hill
in 5th with it floored downshifting to 4th and letting up on the pedal will save fuel
coast with the clutch in when possible (driving in neutral is illegal in some places)
only carry as much weight you need to-extra things add up

and my favorite
fill up the gas tank when its cold out-
the pumps measure volume and gasoline is more dense when cold so you get more for
your money.

 

Lets see some gearing/tire instances

 

woah i forgot the trip meter thing so how much difference is my 84 with 36s say i have 600 miles o n the trip meter how much is that actually

 

if your getting 600 miles per tank i wouldnt complain. 600 for 2 tanks is better than i get lol. . . . .

am i sincing sarcasm????

 

with 5.29's you should be about dead nuts

 

no not per tank i kinda went off subject a lil i ment since the speedo is off so the trip meter would be off to so with my 36s whats the ratio to figure out how many miles are actually there say i drove ten miles on the meter how many miles in real life would that be

 

im cheating: www.4lo.com cool calculators

lf your truck was stock with 28" tires and 4.10 gears, 36" tires with 5.29s is very close

 

Loose every pound of weight that you don't need.
Throw out the 7 pound pipe wrench and the 60 pound floor jack.

Dead weigh = wasted energy to move it.

The Tornado is a gimmick. The only way a Tornado will help you get better MPG is if your truck is caught inside a Tornado and pushing you.

Go with synthetic fluids all around. Motor, Trans, Transfer and Axles.

Since these trucks have the aerodynamics of a parachute never drive over 55on the freeway... Remember were talking MPG here.


Turn off the AC, turn off the Defroster, turn off the 1.21 Gigawatts of stereo and dont drive with your headlights on in the day time.

 

dont do this, ever

i'm out of gear down every hill including on the freeway. stay far away from me.

edit: regarding weight, the difference in fuel economy between unweighted and having a 235lb dirtbike, all my riding gear and tools, and the 45lb carrier on the bumper of my 4runner is marginal at best... under a mile per gallon, and I have numbers to back that up if you want them. the biggest contributing factor is how far my foot is into the pedal and for how long.

 

2000 or below is super slow for a 22re. That would be lugging bad at 70 mph. I run 3000 with 4.10s on 31's at 65 or so.

Low RPMs doesn't always mean better mileage if you have to have the throttle mashed all the time. I would rather have higher revs than lug the engine.

I had ˟˟˟˟ty results with bosch plugs. NGK or Denso Iridium plugs are the way to go.