Nice! Those must be hella loud!
Im just using one Hella that cousin gave me. Thay and stock shud be good

 

Nice improv on the fuse casing

OK.
With this connector off the horn but battery, fuse and wire good:
G-W shud hav steady 12V
G-R shud hav 0V
Put pos probe on G-W and neg probe on G-R. Shud read OV or close. Push horn button, u get 12V.
RESISTANCE CHECK:
One probe on G-R, other on gnd. Shud be open. Push horn button and u shud get as close to zero ohm as possible. Higher resistance means problem with connections or horn button.
HEY! Nice FJ60 passed as I was typing.

Standing on a corner in Ocean Beach, Californa, it's a red FJ60!...

Suweet 60.

Yes, manufacturers often fix what are not broken, including wire color coding that it makes things harder to troubleshoot.

 

AHA! You missed what I had highlighted.
Happens when you're too eager to jump into the water before checking.

 

I added relay to my horn circuit so it doesn't sound like that little guy with big ears from Anaheim, CA with his balls caught in a trap - LOL!
No need to tear into steering column contact because not that contact carries low current.
HERE

 

I have an account here but havn't posted and can't even figure out how to post a new thread. Hoping someone can help me with my horn issue....if this thread is still alive....
Short version of it is: on my 1985 22re pickup I used a test bulb and still had power on my wire to my horn. Did the .22 trick for the brass spring on the back and it worked. Then i took off the old horn and put on a new one. nice and loud! then bolted and mounted everything back up and went to test my horn. Nothing. put on the old horn. Nothing. checked power with the bulb tester. Nothing. Fuse blown. Put new one in. Nothing. Tail and hazards werent working. Put in new relay. No horn still but tail and blinker and hazards are back but they are goofy. Only work properly when i turn my headlights on. Is there something i am missing? Thinking maybe its the switch in the column but is that related to the horn? why isn't my hot wire out where my horn hooks up not lighting up since i replaced the fuse and relay? my fusible link is still connected throught the plastic glass. Truck starts just fine... Any help is much appreciated. Thank you.

 

oh and i forgot the most important and embarassing part that i pulled on this. i was too lazy and hurrying to disconnect the battery, which i think is the culprit why everything went wonky...

 

How did you 1985 have a horn relay?

Please do checks I suggest on original post above. (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52381275)
It applies to normally-functioning STOCK horn circuit.
If you tell us what you see different on yours, we narrow down where to look.

Did you mean to post a picture here? Any update?

 

Thank you very much for your reply. I really appreciate it! I will try those checks tomorrow since im working today and its raining. And everything is stock for the horn circuit except that moment i beeped the aftermarket horn. I guess i assumed the relay for the horn was apart of the tail relay? The only reason I think this is because after the fuse was blown and horn not working, the tail and hazards wouldn't work either...maybe that indicates something greater got blown? Im trying to wrap my mind around electrical and just when i think I have a grasp it gets more challenging.

Curiosity question: the wire I tested with my bulb tester is green with red stripe. It lit up before the fiasco. Now afterwards it will not light up (on the horn end or steering wheel end), and the fuse has been replaced. I am wondering if that indicates something else then? I looked at the fusible link under the hood and they are still connected.

No that wasn't suppose to be a picture, that was just something that I forgot to add in my original post, that I did not disconnect the battery when i fixed the horn...maybe that overloaded the circuit? I will try and post pictures tomorrow when i tear back into it. Right now i have steering wheel plastics off to see the wires. Thanks again for your help!

 

Tails are different from hazards.
Please list all that work on truck.
And all that do not work on truck.

Hazard and horn take power from Hazard and Horn fuse.
If you replaced fuse with a good one G-R wire should have 12V up to horn. If Horn is good, you should see 12V all the way to one side of the horn switch in steering column.
I do not trust using test light. Spend $6 at Beijing Freight if you plan to work on electrical system of your truck. Pls see signature.

 

I started hearing a kitten in my steering column so I decided to inspect. Sorry , no pics. IIRC there is a detailed write-up on this on Yotatech or at T4R dot ORG.
The ring/plate still looks good but the grease (not silicone) had hardened, and the lack of lubrication was causing the meowing sound when I turned. I cleaned the ring with alcohol and scouring pad. Will re-install later and lubricate with silicone grease.

Because I had already bought replacement contact pin, I proceeded to work on that.

LESSON LEARNT: If nothing's wrong with the contact pin, leave it alone. If it is worn down were it does not press hard enough on the brass ring use the .22 Caliber shell method, instead. It's covered on Terry's thread.

WHY? The retaining E-clip is so easy to lose and difficult to re-install, especially if the assembly is still on the column. That is what I'm stuck on tonight. Need to find where the clip fell and/or buy replacement for it tomorrow.

 

Working on the truck the other day, I added washers to the ring instead of the 22 shell casing on the pin. Maybe I’ll get a few more years before I need to replace the ring and pin. RAD, are you in San Diego?

 

Big magnet.

 

Thanks, guys!
Found the worn out snap-ring. Pin came with a new one. Worst-case, the whole thing can be assembled without the snap ring. The flexible wire connector holds it in place well, and the steering wheel contact ring will push it back. The snap ring is absolutely need only for handling during manufacture and when shipping the assembly.

Shimming is also a good remedy. I would use shims cut to same shape as the brass ring so the contact surface would be well-supported and stay flatter. Perhaps use sturdy plastic sheet like that used on blister packs.

 

This will test if the wiring to the pin, the horn and the wiring back to battery are good.

 

Hey guys I’ve got a ‘85 22R.

Horn wasn’t working so I took the wheel off and put some washers under the brass ring.

It now works intermittently but I saw some corrosion at the horn connector & snipped the 2 wires back until they were clean.

Now the horn doesn’t work at all. When I press the horn button i’m getting 2.5v on my multimeter at the connector (I’m assuming that’s too low).

My guess is that the ground at the horn button isn’t solid but I’m not fully understanding where / or how the button makes the short.

any advice would be appreciated!

 

A picture paints a thousand words.
Washers to space a big ring? Then it wud warp and the contact wud be like riding a baby roller-coaster.
Try this.
https://youtu.be/nqhiDSErpE0

 

I would add a plastic shim as thick as those washers but shaped same as that ring so ring stays flat, instead of just washers.