hah, Dude it took me all of 5 mins to get those studs out

Good luck !!

 

Two of the studs are totally mushroomed. I was beating on them with framing hammer, a hand sledge, and finally a 8lbs maul... they didn't budge.

 

gotta love our trucks that have no rust!!

 

There's not much rust at all really, I just don't think the truck has been aligned in many many years and its probably on its original ball joints.

 

I had heard about using "used brake fluid".

 

PB Blaster is ok stuff, and it compares to the majority of penetrants out there. It is more readily available than before so you should check again. I can find it at a Canadian Tire or Napa in Canada, so it should pretty much be everywhere else by now.

 

Look for a real penetrant. There's a whole thread here or on pirate about options.

For stuff that isn't really stuck, the Blaster or whatever they have at the auto store is fine, hell, Seafoam makes one. For stuff that's really really really stuck, I prefer Kroil, but there seem to be several options in that tier that I'm unfamiliar with.

 

Lordco has never heard of it.

 

You in BC too? If so, I just found some the other day at Crappy Tire. I have to restock since after the move.

 

Brake fluid has the added benefit of damaging/removing any paint it comes in contact with...smart!

 

Yeah. I'm in N. Van. There's a tonne of people from BC on this board.

When you install BJ spacers, you have to repaint part of the UCA anyways. I appreciate your concern
PB blaster also damages paint- turned some of the black on my frame to goo.

 

Yup!

(clearly you need to be careful with the application, should you choose this route)

 

As mentioned, Kroil is pretty good stuff. Also, it looks like Kroil maybe a supporter of these forums, which is a nice thing. They are currently offering two 13oz cans for $12 including shipping. It smells good, too, so can double as after shave. A dab behind the ears -- better than 90 weight gear oil.

I recently saw a discussion (here or somewhere else) about using a mix of 50/50 ATF and acetone. I haven't tried it, but I intend to. I don't know if acetone will eat paint like brake fluid, but it does dissolve/soften a bunch of different plastics and the like, which would help in penetration, I would guess. Acetone is pretty volatile so I suspect you don't want to mix more than you'd need. Also, it will dissolve some plastic containers. Also flammable.

Many penetrating oils seem to have a kerosene base, so that would likely be a good starting point for home-made penetrant. Something like stoddard solvent would likely work too and isn't as flammable as kerosene, I think.

About PB Blaster -- I saw it at a Walmart not too long ago so it's probably available almost anywhere.

 

Ok, lets get this straight. It does not instantly dissolve paint, if left on a painted surface overnight, yes, but not in the time it takes to walk into the house, have a coffee, grab a rag and wipe it of the UCA.

I often drip brake fluid on the inner fender when changing the brake fluid, I don't always bother wiping it up, and guess what!? There's still no exposed metal or even exposed primer.

 

if your paint is fresh brake fluid will buble paint faster than you can walk across the shop to grab a rag, one time i painted a vehical and dripped some break fluid on it less than a week later! it was horrible, but 20 year old factory paint, probably wouldn't do anything to it. still a good idea to wipe it off as soon as possible however. speaking of being in a pinch, iv always found the dip stick a good way to get a little oil on a bolt that is giving you some trouble lol.

 

THRUST GET IT ANYWHERE THAT SELLS CASTLE PRODUCTS!!
PART SOURCE!


refridge mechanic,farmers and real auto mechanic swear by it