I broke the steel line off my fuel sending unit and had to replace it. Hit it with PB Blaster several times throughout the week but 2 of the bolts still snapped. Any advice on getting these out? I would REALLY like to avoid drilling them out if I can help it...

The barb connected to my fuel line is also rusted closed. Can you get a new barb for your fuel line or any advice to getting these unscrewed frm one another?

 

Use 6points and quality line wrenches when dealing with those. Often times you have to give the wrench a good smack at the nut more than just turning force. might need someone to hold a buck block o the other side. You can match it up at a parts store, like autozone or carquest/napa etc. How much thread is kn the tank? Ive seen people just put in self-tapping screws next to the broken ones, too.

 

Cover the hole with tape and get a sanding disk on a grinder and flatten the bolt sticking out. Then with a sharp center punch make u a punch dead center. You can drill through the screw and not get into the tank. Then just step the drill bits up til you get to the size that starts showing the threads in the tank and you should be able to pull it out pretty easy then. I always start with a small bit to make sure my pilot hole stays center.

 

I have been able to get a pair of vise grips on the stud sticking up and twist them out in the past.

 

Replace the tank, How i fix mine that broke all bolts. But i had allot of rust inside the tank.

 

Well good news and bad news...

Good news is a good pair of vice grips and line wrench got the fitting undone from the fuel line.

Bad news is the studs wont come out of the tank. I tried a screw extractor and it broke off in the stud. Would it be a terrible idea to just lay down a bead of gasoline approved silicone or RTV underneath the sending unit and torque it down with 5/7 screws? or drill and tap a new hole right next to the broken ones?

 

Well i got one of the holes retapped but the one the screw extractor broke off in is just fubared. Ill just order a new tank.

 

In the long run you will be better off with a new fuel tank.Pumps are expensive but I get mine off of ebay for about $30 shipped and have never had one to fail yet.

 

Yeah this is a DD and I don't want to risk anything in terms of reliability. I'm just impatient.

 

like i said: i've seen people put in self-tappers next to the broken bolts (and they didn't leak with the stock gasket)

 

I dont doubt that the self tapping screws would work fine, but it would always be in the back of my mind and for the cost its worth not worrying about gas fumes. I smoke in my truck so its a little scary thinking about it lol.

 

Well I got the fuel tank replaced with a Dorman tank and this morning on the way to work I am having fuel issues. My fuel sending unit did not fit quite right on this new tank. The sending unit is OEM from Toyota. You can see it is rotated clockwise a little and that causes there to be a kink in my fuel line. It seems to work fine once I get going but in the low gear off the line its stuttering. I filled up the tank to full and it stopped so I am guessing the sending unit is mounted in a funky position thats affecting fuel pick up. The gauge doesnt work right either because it was showing half full and the tank took 14 gallons of fuel this morning.

Not at all happy with this Dorman tank. I can only rotate the sending unit in a way that allows for 6/7 screws to be installed on the sending unit. No leaks but I am wondering if the sending unit needs to be rotated more to allow for better fuel pick up and to fit all 7 screws? But I cant rotate the sending unit anymore because the filter contacts the baffles inside the tank. It seems like this is not the tank for my truck but the part number matches correct? Maybe its a case of a one size fits all aftermarket part? The filler neck also contacts the frame...

Here you can see the fuel sending unit is rotated clockwise too much and makes a kink in the line.

 

The part number I ordered for the tank is 576190.

 

I think I found the problem.

Here is the OEM fuel tank:



Here is what I ordered:



Here is what I think I should have ordered (part# 576-210) This one has a much more similar shape to the OEM tank. Can anyone confirm?

 

sure as heck looks like it. you might have ordered a pickup tank

 

Yeah it is interesting how on Rock Auto they sell so many different tanks for the same truck and none of them matched my VIN. I have the other one on the way and I'll be sending the other one back.

 

Just for future reference or anyone else having to do this, here is a picture of all three tanks lined up. The one in front is the one I got first that doesnt fit. The middle is OEM, and the one in back is the new 19 gallon. You can see the difference between the three.

If you have a 4wd extended cab, you want the 19 gallon. Installed this weekend and everything fit just right and fuel gauge is now reading correctly.

 

I would of thought the first replacement tank would of worked, glad you showed that. I think Toyota had a different tank for each truck. I do know a 4Runner and truck tanks are different.

 

The tank sort of fit, but a couple things wrong.

1. The filler neck was a very tight fit against the frame rail. I sort of had to force it on and even then it would not fully seat.

2. The screws on the sending unit do not line up. I could only screw in 6/7.

3. The fuel gauge was contacting a baffle inside the tank and caused the gauge to only go down to 1/2 tank.

 

Oh man. I know I'm resurrecting what appears to be a very old thread, but this information is monumental. I have a '96 Taco and my fuel pump just gave up the ghost on me. Upon further inspection, it seems like I'm dealing with the same situation where the top of the fuel sending assembly is rusted to the tank. Quick question: what type of truck was this tank put onto?