Hi, my first post here. Just bought a 95 4x4 pickup last week. Been a bit of a project but 1 problem i havnt figured out is. When engine warms up and under load especially above the 3k rpm range it starts to kick, like if im losing fuel or something, some googling have pointed me in tps sensor direction and ive tried adjusting it and mesuring ohm's and what not, didnt help at all might have actually worsened it. Should i replace the tps anyway? Is there anything else i should be looking at instead? Truck idles fine drives ok most the time just when i want to speed up or go uphills it starts to kick itself in the arse.. Any help would be appreciated.
Jack

 

Nobody has seen this before? Anything guys?

 

You shouldnt of messed with the tps. cel on? Do some research. Checked fuel pressure??

 

Adjusting the tps can be a PIA. I am waiting for a friend of mine to let me know when his shop has time to do it. If you tps not working unplug it and the motor should run better. I would not just throw another tps on it. You will still have to adjust it. So see if you can adjust it first. Either way you have to adjust it. So what else can you spend your hard earned money on?

 

Im pretty sure i adjusted it right because i did it twice and it made no diffrence really. I unplugged it tonight on the way to work and it made no diffrence as well. So i think my tps is fine. I tried changing my fuel filter today, was clean inside and also didnt help. I changed almost all of the 1/8 inch vacumm lines today as well still no diffrence. Im lost, i might take it in to the dealer and pay the diag fee. Also i unplugged the fuel pressure regulator and there was no gas coming out of vacumm port so im guessing thats ok too. I ran that chevron techron injector cleaner with 1/2 a tank of gas and didnt help. Problem only seems to get worse now. In the mornings for the first 5 minutes truck is fine, soon as i get to temp and give any gas especially uphills she starts to kick like if im losing fuel or something but runs fine when cold.
Going to dealer tommorow ill post as soon as i know something.

 

Fishguy,
Only reason i messed with the tps, is my friend said was first thing to try, he said was very common on these engines, he talked me through it over phone and seemed pretty comfortable doing it. Hes a tech but sort of far from me, gonna try to take it to him in the morning anyway. What does "cel on" mean? And also no i havnt checked fuel pressure, dont know how and dont have a gauge with fittings anyway.

 

Where is the ignition timing set?

 

Have not got that far yet, i can check the timing tommorow morning. Do i need to unplug anything? Do these trucks have a vacumm advance or something? Or just put the light on it and see what it says.
Thanks
Jack

 

No, you follow the manual. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/64tuneup.pdf

The actual advance is on the sticker under the hood.

 

Dose it have the factory or aftermarket air intake?

 

That was another thing i was thinking, aftermarket bling bling intake polished aluminum it seems. Not installed by me but by previous owner. Ive only had this truck for a week now so im just going through things 1 at a time.
The pvc breather is just a breather, i dont see a pvc valve in it, its just some fancy breather with a blue screen and filter and polished housing. I checked all the connections on this setup and they are tight, most of the connections are 1/4 inch think 3 inch rubber hose and on tight and snug. I also looked in throttle body, looked clean but wiped inside anyway with some carb cleaner on a rag.

 

I know on my sports car, many aftermarket intakes cause severe heatsoak (which leads to the issues you described).

 

Thanks scope good call on the timing,
Yesterday when i replaced all those 1/8 small hoses i noticed my idle went up but didnt get a chance to look into it because i had to go to work.
This morning i put my timing light on it and it was around 12-15? (jumping) Well was above 10 and sort of towoards the end, i lowered it to where its jumping between 8-10 around. Pretty close to 10. Only timing light i have goes on battery terminals with lead on #1 , not like the one in service manual link you gave me. Then i checked my idle was around 1300, i lowered it to 900, was 2 full turns clockwise on idle screw. While i was litening to it idle and checking stuff i noticed there is a misfire or something, was there even before i messed with timing, it has an occasional put put out the tail pipe.
Took it out to test drive and its a little better but still there. Idles a lot smoother now and much less quiet. All i hear is ticks.
Ill post back if i find anything else.
Thank you for everyones help.
Jack

 

you need to jumper the Te and E1 pins in the diagnostic box to put the ECU in test mode. when you do that the RPM's will change and the timing light will show the right timing.

There is a breather and a PCV (not pvc) on the intake manifold.

 

Ok thanks, that clears that up. Redone the timing with the jumper wire. Mark is no longer jumping but set at 10 degrees, rpm is fine as well.
As far as the PCV valve i still dont have one just a breather on a 1/2 inch plastic nipple coming out of drivers side valve cover. I looked again, there is nothing inside that breather.
Thanks
Jack

 

I find this sort of funny. Your right on that heatsoak, that polished aluminum gets so hot i can barely touch it. I wish i had the factory air setup to put back in, is it worth going to the yard and looking for a factory air intake? Will they sell it without the maf sensor i wonder?
I dont know why they call these things cold air intake the things burning up. And it has these blue gum like pretty hoses on it. Can this setup really cause these issues? Sort of makes sence because all my issues start when truck gets hot. Maybe i should pull the tstat and run for a few days to see how it goes? Didnt get a chance to go to dealer today anyway. Thanks for all the inputs.

 

Still have not figured this out yet. Im off tommorow so i will get some work done. This is what i plan to do, anybody have any other suggetions?

1. Replace plugs and wires,
2. Test drive, if good then have a beer and wax, if bad then,
3. Drive to yard and buy a factory air intake setup,
4. Remove top part of engine replace intake gasket, replace valve cover gasket, replace pcv and pcv groumet, look more more air leaks, replace more hoses since all this is coming off.
5. Test drive, if good, have another beer, bad then kick the tire and cuss.
6. Run seasmoke?
Anyone have any better ideas?

 

1. Never hurts (especially if you don't know the last time they were done)
2. Never hurts
3. Like I said, I'm not sure about our trucks, but my Honda s2000 gives the same symptoms with most aftermarket intakes (I have a K&N on mine that shields the air filter from engine heat).
4. Have you tested for a vacuum leak?
5. Hopefully it's beer time.
6. You mean SeaFoam? If so, some swear by it. I've always been hesitant to try it. Be prepared for it to foul your oxygen sensor.

 

I dont know how to do a vacumm test,
If none of this works is there any other way to diag problem at home? Or is it dealer time?
Also yea i meant sea foam, if i do try it.. Should i remove o2 sensor?
Thanks again
Thanks
Jack

 

Just Google it; plenty of YouTube vids that will show you.


If you don't know the age of the oxygen sensor, it may not be a bad idea to replace it (pull it out and take a look).


I did mine after getting my runner, and it led to a smoother idle.