Ok so, I accidentally drove with the emergency brake on for like 30 minutes until i noticed (I know, I know). Then after I released it, everytime I slow down - say 10 MPH and below - I hear this winding, rattle coming from underneath the truck. (I dont hear it pass 10 MPH and up).I want to say one of my U joints just took a dump. I dont know if my tires could have helped cause it 32x11.5x15 or my lift (cranked t bars and 2inch lift spring w/ a 1 inch spacer. I just dont know. It seems to get louder every time I drive it. I put it in 4x4 HI and LOW - it seems not as loud, but still there. Please help.

 

Anyone have this problem before?

 

Baby your Brake is still on and not fully released. Just my 2 cents.

 

adjust your rear brakes, and adjust your e-brake then go from there.

 

I've done this before. Drove 26 miles until I noticed "that smell!". I'd pop the drums off and have a look.

 

well, might as well say it.. I am too guilty of this, I drove 30kms with it on, got out and smelled it!

 

You guys must have V6's. Us 4 cyl guys couldn't get out of a parking spot without releasing the brake!

 

true, however, i replaced the cable, and adjusted it properly. i can sit on pretty much any hill with the truck in neutral, ebrake engaged, and not move anywhere.

if i try to go anywhere with my e-brake on, it's not happening. (22re)

-shaeff

 

I ruled out the e brake, or any associated brake parts. I truck has all its power now, and e brake only locks the rear tires. It is this nasty sound coming from the front of my truck when I slow down. 20 KPH and down it sounds like I am dragging a box of tools from my front bumper. There is no e brake burning smell anymore. This sucks and I have that feeling it will cost way too much.

 

CV boots intact?

Try putting 'er up on jack stands, in 4WD and let her idle. Try to ID some sort of noise. That's how I IDed the squeak in my rear driveshaft. Turned out to be the support bearing and not a uni. I was happy.

 

I was woundering why my truck felt sooo sluggish

Soon after that a friend snapped the cable, year later I finally replace it and adjust my rear brakes, its strong enough to hold me on pretty much any hill

To OP:

this sounds like it has nothing to do with your e-brake, coincidence I suppose..

Do you have manual hubs? If not, check your cv joints, If so, enguage/dis engauge them, any difference?

 

I had a similar sound when my rear U-joint went. I crawled underneath and twisted the driveshaft back and forth. It was easy on mine to see where the back one grenaded. One of the spiderbearing caps was gone. It only took a few hours to drop the rear shaft (8 bolts) and pound/cut the old bearings out. There is a thread on here somewhere on how to do it. It ran me about $70 for U-joints (did front and rear at the same time). You could always drop your rear shaft and drive around in 4wd (essentially front wheel drive at that point) and see if the noise/vibration goes away. If it does, you can be pretty sure it's a U.

 

youll want to check your front bearings and your spindle bushing, depending on how much/if you off road, they could need some attention.

lee

 

how do i adjust my hand brake?. my hand brake light is on ??

 

hold on that doesnt mean you E-brake is out of adjustment... hold on let me reword that... that doesnt meant FOR SURE your ebrake is out of adjustment (although it might be out but that has nothing to do with your light).. that means either you brake fluid is low or your ebrake switch is faulty

 

brake light is for your fluid, add as muc fluid as possible, past the "full" line.

to adjust your e-brake roll backwards and pull the e-brake, repeat this a few times.

 

Why do you say this? Just curious. It's a good way to get spillage all in the bay. Besides, it's just not necessary at all.


Pulling on the e-brake handle only adjusts the drum shoes if the levers and adjusters mechanisms are actually working. Part of the adjustment of the whole system is also adjusting the cable itself.....right in front of the fuel tank. If your brakes are working well (engaging the pedal) your drum shoes are in good order. Then, just adjust the cable. If your e-brake still doesn't work perfectly, then there's other problems in the system.