Not years, models. Any V6 or Turbo AT 4WD has it. The H case stopped completely is 95.

Unfortunately this is ANOTHER draw back of the H case... All we've discussed so far is eliminating the ADD system to troubleshoot your problem, leaving out the transfer case as a possibility of the problem.


You do NOT need to just swap TC's... It will be far too time (time = $$$) consuming.

Actually, you need to look into retrofitting a A340f into it... If, you have plans to keep it.

More power and fuel economy, that's exactly what I'd do...

"The new A340F transmission is far superior to my A340H. It's shifts are stronger and more positive. I no longer guess if the transmission has shifted or not. With the rest of the drivetrain being direct gearing, I am getting more power to the rear wheels. After more than a week of daily driving, I also found that gas mileage increased 1.5 MPG with the new transmission and transfer cases."

Chasing down problems in the H case is just chasing your tail if you ask me.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/autocrawler/


Here's another link, but the Turbo being a f case is wrong.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/

 

well i saw a transmission out of a 89 4runner v6 automatic, and it had a different transfer case on it. was that just a different transmission then?

 

Any 4cylinder has the f case, any V6 and Turbo, the H.

Did it have two lines coming out of the back of it? Or a small radiator connected to it?

If not, you could have spotted a one out of an RE. It is hard sometimes to tell the two bell housings apart...

If you tilt a V6 BH.. It looks like a 22RE to me...

 

Forget the drops, here's an f and an H case side to side... One's just a Tacoma..


..........................................f....... ........................................H

 

......

 

does this picture mean that all i have to do to change my add diff to my friends non add diff is change the lon side of the diffs? my add part will unbolt and his non add long shaft will bolt right in its place?

 

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#IFS



"One difference between ADD and non-ADD diffs is that the carrier in an ADD differential has needle bearings supporting the axle shafts at the differential. The non-ADD diffs did not have this bearing and sometimes the passenger side axle flange wears the carrier and becomes loose or wobbly, eventually causing oil leaks, noise, and possible spider gear damage."

"ADD and non-ADD diffs are swappable as are most of their parts. This makes it possible to change your ADD diff to non-ADD by simply swapping parts as I've done in the picture to the right. This is desirable to some people since some of the ADD stubs are smaller diameter than the non-ADD stubs and are therefore slightly weaker."


If you're not running HUGE tires, you can just leave it and have both shift-on-the-fly and free running hubs...

The "ADD" is just a (drive) flange that is EXACTLY like a manual hub you cannot unlock.

But it is removing a potential failure point...