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okay, i have a custom long travel front end setup and part of the kit was bolting a adapter plate to the flange. and then the lubro (porsche 930 like) joint bolts onto this.
so undo 6 bolts and the axle assembly drops off.
undo all the stuff at the spindle/hub and then the whole assembly comes out.
I did the swap of one axle yesterday with my little guy. I documented how to to it with literally just undoing the bolts on the diff. Pretty smooth process once I figured it out. Maybe a 30 minute job for any subsequent breakages. I'll put some pictures up later, just wanted to write in the post so I can be attached to it.
I did the swap of one axle yesterday with my little guy. I documented how to to it with literally just undoing the bolts on the diff. Pretty smooth process once I figured it out. Maybe a 30 minute job for any subsequent breakages. I'll put some pictures up later, just wanted to write in the post so I can be attached to it.
Did you ever post pics and details? Recently acquired an old junker to fix up and planning cv axle replacement this week, like the sound of your technique and pics would help my blind a$$ lol...
Im not sure that post is completely accurate. There's more to it than just unbolting the diff bolts. Its not the worst job in the world but I think this thread gives you a sense of the different options. I like the idea of unbolting the axle at the diff before taking anything off. Unless you have impact wrenches, then its up to you.
This is how I do mine,,of course the experts say its all wrong but WTF i know, it works. If you don't have impact 2' or better bar on the tulip nuts will give you enough leverage.
Unfortunately I don't remember much about the job, other than it was a cool morning when we did it. I used a jack to hold up the brake rotor because I can see it in the pics, and I took the sway bar end link off and used a pry bar to lift it out of the way enough to slide the cv assembly off the diff. It must not have been super tough, because I left the pry bar in place and it held it enough to lift it up while I took the photo. I'm not sure how many photos I can upload, but I'll see how many I can post up now. I feel like I might have made a post with them all, but it's probably easier to just re post them than find it.
Lifting the rotor is the essential part of this job (the half-shaft cannot be removed if the wheel is just dangling). But I'd recommend positioning the (unloaded) jack-stand so that if the rotor slips off your stack of 2x6-and-brick, the frame will land on the jack-stand before the whole rig hits the driveway. It would still be very exciting, but having the rotor come down on your leg would not be a "good thing."
I know what you mean, and I'm pretty sure I did that. I wouldn't be pushing on the side of the truck knowing it could fall off and then the whole thing comes tumbling down. I had 3 jack stands out there that day so I'm betting I put one on the chassis rail of the passenger side. But, again it was almost 8 years ago. I don't remember too much about it.
12-08-2012, 04:03 AM
