help bleeding a clutch
#1
help bleeding a clutch
Hey guys, I'm having a litle problem I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. I have a 1990 Toyota 4runner. I recently swaped out my automatic tranny for a 5 speed and I am having trouble bleeding the clutch. The lines are not leaking and the clutch is bran new. There is some pressure on the pedal but not nearly enough. The clutch will not fully engauge. What kind of techniques do you guys use for bleeding clutch lines. Could it be another problem. Thanks fo your help guys!
#2
Registered User
Here's what works for me:
1. Make sure the reservoir is full.
2. Have a helper push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there.
3. Open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and air/fluid should squirt out.
4. Close the bleeder valve.
5. Tell the helper to reach in with his hand and slowly pull the pedal back up. If you pull it up quickly air can be sucked into the master as well as fluid.
6. Repeat until all the air is out.
7. Fill the reservoir after each 2 or 3 bleeds because it's small and if it goes dry you'll have to start all over.
1. Make sure the reservoir is full.
2. Have a helper push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there.
3. Open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and air/fluid should squirt out.
4. Close the bleeder valve.
5. Tell the helper to reach in with his hand and slowly pull the pedal back up. If you pull it up quickly air can be sucked into the master as well as fluid.
6. Repeat until all the air is out.
7. Fill the reservoir after each 2 or 3 bleeds because it's small and if it goes dry you'll have to start all over.
#5
Registered User
Agreed. If you are getting a good shot of fluid without air at the end of the bleed procedure then it's time to look elsewhere.
Have your helper push the pedal in and out while you watch the slave cylinder and release fork. The fork should move back and forth smoothly. Also look at the rubber hose to check if it's bulging out when the pedal is pushed. If it's old and weak it can expand and contract, taking away from the pressure that reaches the slave.
If the freeplay is correct at the pedal and there isn't air in the system, the only other place to look is at the clutch installation and whether you have the correct clutch parts installed.
Have your helper push the pedal in and out while you watch the slave cylinder and release fork. The fork should move back and forth smoothly. Also look at the rubber hose to check if it's bulging out when the pedal is pushed. If it's old and weak it can expand and contract, taking away from the pressure that reaches the slave.
If the freeplay is correct at the pedal and there isn't air in the system, the only other place to look is at the clutch installation and whether you have the correct clutch parts installed.
#6
Registered User
Make sure your pedal adjustments are all good....
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/clutch/2checkand.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/clutch/2checkand.pdf
This is what i was going to suggest. I changed my clutch and couldant shift, changed slave and master to no avail, then a buddy told me about the peddle adjustment. quick turn of the nut ant i was good to go. Wish he was around before i bought new parts. haha.
#7
Registered User
I had the same problem with mine and it turned out i bought I had a bad slaved and didn't know the seals where leaking back. they are only like 20 at orileys. I also used a vaculite to bleed the clutch out. and don't forget to bench bleed everything
Trending Topics
#9
Contributing Member
I actually used a one-man brake bleeding kit when I replaced my master and slave cylinder; worked perfect
by yeah make sure the pedal is adjusted right under the dash first!
by yeah make sure the pedal is adjusted right under the dash first!
#11
Well the clutch is working but there doesn't sem to be much pressure in the pedal. As far as I can tell the clutch is working fine it just seems too soft. Is this normal for a new clutch, resurfaced flywheel and new lines?
#12
no you still have air in the line the only way to get it out is to use a vacum bleeder connect it to the bleeder and turn it on and it suck the air out but keep a check on fluid so you dont suck it dry
#14
Registered User
if i were u id rent one of these https://www.yotatech.com/attachments...s-dsc00102.jpg
i just put new clutch,and both cylinders and still could not get air outta line until i rented this at advance...
i just put new clutch,and both cylinders and still could not get air outta line until i rented this at advance...
Last edited by myyota85; 06-13-2010 at 08:08 AM.
#16
Registered User
Interesting. The clutch hydraulic line isn't all that long. Shouldn't take much to get all the air out. Unless, there's some way air is getting in? Are all the fittings snug? No corrosion or pitting on the fittings? Did you get the pedal travel adjustment correct?
#17
Registered User
But yeah, thook has a good point, the clutch system is pretty basic, if your not getting proper pressure after a few bleeds, then you have air getting in there somehow, or your pedal is way out of whack.
#18
Registered User
You don't NEED a vacuum bleeder, you just need a good pedal presin' buddy
But yeah, thook has a good point, the clutch system is pretty basic, if your not getting proper pressure after a few bleeds, then you have air getting in there somehow, or your pedal is way out of whack.
But yeah, thook has a good point, the clutch system is pretty basic, if your not getting proper pressure after a few bleeds, then you have air getting in there somehow, or your pedal is way out of whack.
Last edited by CitrusTheDragon; 06-13-2010 at 07:18 PM.
#19
Registered User
Right tools? You only need one tool: 10mm flare nut wrench
ok if you want to get technical you need about 2 bottles of brake fluid, about 1' at least of 3/16" ID hose, and a soda can to fill 1/2 way with brake fluid to put your bleeder hose in
Tell your buddy:
When I say DOWN depress the pedal slowly to the floor and HOLD IT THERE
When I say UP slowly bring the pedal up
I always say DOWN and then wait a sec to avoid any air possibly getting in there if you open the bleeder accidentally before you're bud depresses the clutch
Some people don't take the time to submerge your extended bleeder tube into a soda can full of brake fluid, its a good insurance plan if a "miscommunication" happens
ok if you want to get technical you need about 2 bottles of brake fluid, about 1' at least of 3/16" ID hose, and a soda can to fill 1/2 way with brake fluid to put your bleeder hose in
Tell your buddy:
When I say DOWN depress the pedal slowly to the floor and HOLD IT THERE
When I say UP slowly bring the pedal up
I always say DOWN and then wait a sec to avoid any air possibly getting in there if you open the bleeder accidentally before you're bud depresses the clutch
Some people don't take the time to submerge your extended bleeder tube into a soda can full of brake fluid, its a good insurance plan if a "miscommunication" happens