help bleeding a clutch
#22
Registered User
Right tools? You only need one tool: 10mm flare nut wrench
ok if you want to get technical you need about 2 bottles of brake fluid, about 1' at least of 3/16" ID hose, and a soda can to fill 1/2 way with brake fluid to put your bleeder hose in
Tell your buddy:
When I say DOWN depress the pedal slowly to the floor and HOLD IT THERE
When I say UP slowly bring the pedal up
I always say DOWN and then wait a sec to avoid any air possibly getting in there if you open the bleeder accidentally before you're bud depresses the clutch
Some people don't take the time to submerge your extended bleeder tube into a soda can full of brake fluid, its a good insurance plan if a "miscommunication" happens
ok if you want to get technical you need about 2 bottles of brake fluid, about 1' at least of 3/16" ID hose, and a soda can to fill 1/2 way with brake fluid to put your bleeder hose in
Tell your buddy:
When I say DOWN depress the pedal slowly to the floor and HOLD IT THERE
When I say UP slowly bring the pedal up
I always say DOWN and then wait a sec to avoid any air possibly getting in there if you open the bleeder accidentally before you're bud depresses the clutch
Some people don't take the time to submerge your extended bleeder tube into a soda can full of brake fluid, its a good insurance plan if a "miscommunication" happens
#23
Registered User
Ok there's two things that really bother me
1. when people type like they are texting
2. when people regurgitate previous posters info and add their useless twist of info to it
No where in this thread does it say 'recycle your brake fluid' or 'after you take a sip out of a soda, pop your bleeder tube in'
As for the seals, the key phrase to bleeding is "slowly depress the pedal" just don't romp on the pedal, that will blow a seal out quick fast. If you read my post that you quoted (I bet you didn't) you'll come across this "Some people don't take the time to submerge your extended bleeder tube into a soda can full of brake fluid, its a good insurance plan if a "miscommunication" happens" This way, NO AIR can get back in.
And as I have said before, You DON'T need a vacuum bleeder to do it right
1. when people type like they are texting
2. when people regurgitate previous posters info and add their useless twist of info to it
No where in this thread does it say 'recycle your brake fluid' or 'after you take a sip out of a soda, pop your bleeder tube in'
As for the seals, the key phrase to bleeding is "slowly depress the pedal" just don't romp on the pedal, that will blow a seal out quick fast. If you read my post that you quoted (I bet you didn't) you'll come across this "Some people don't take the time to submerge your extended bleeder tube into a soda can full of brake fluid, its a good insurance plan if a "miscommunication" happens" This way, NO AIR can get back in.
And as I have said before, You DON'T need a vacuum bleeder to do it right
Last edited by PismoJoe; 06-16-2010 at 12:48 PM.
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: anson, texas
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Word Pismo... but then again he could have the wrong pressure plate like me... it happens especially when ur doing a clutch job at 4in the morning with no sleep for 36 hrs.... that is always a possibility just my 02 cents especially if its a napa or autozone clutch kit...
#25
Registered User
Ok well you guys do it your way and I will be happy to do it mine. The soda left and the aluminum in the can, bottle, or what ever you use finds it way back into the system. I have seen it more then I want to even talk about. Never use old fluid, never use a contaminated container to catch in, and listen to people whom spend a great deal of time doing studying and working on brake/clutch systems.
Pismo I never said you where wrong I just mentioned that pump bleeding has to been done right and a vac-u-lite is the easiest/safest/and smartest way to do it. About flipping the seals, that happens when u push the pedal to far down, no matter if done slow or fast. It happens from the quick release in pressure when the bleeder is opened. I can get you the text book description but really don't feel like looking through all my books.
Pismo I never said you where wrong I just mentioned that pump bleeding has to been done right and a vac-u-lite is the easiest/safest/and smartest way to do it. About flipping the seals, that happens when u push the pedal to far down, no matter if done slow or fast. It happens from the quick release in pressure when the bleeder is opened. I can get you the text book description but really don't feel like looking through all my books.
#28
i just had this problem the other day i would bleed it but never get a good pedal so used vacum bleeder and it done the trick but air can get traped in the line the air rises to the highest point in the line the bleeder is on slave done low so use vacum bleeder and that will fix your problem
#29
Registered User
i had a clutch that wasn't feeling right and it turned out the clutch master cyl rod was to short. the pedal was lower to the floor and the stroke was to short. changed it out fixed the problem. just mentioned it in case someone has a truck that just won't line out.
#30
Registered User
Ok well you guys do it your way and I will be happy to do it mine. The soda left and the aluminum in the can, bottle, or what ever you use finds it way back into the system. I have seen it more then I want to even talk about. Never use old fluid, never use a contaminated container to catch in, and listen to people whom spend a great deal of time doing studying and working on brake/clutch systems.
Pismo I never said you where wrong I just mentioned that pump bleeding has to been done right and a vac-u-lite is the easiest/safest/and smartest way to do it. About flipping the seals, that happens when u push the pedal to far down, no matter if done slow or fast. It happens from the quick release in pressure when the bleeder is opened. I can get you the text book description but really don't feel like looking through all my books.
Pismo I never said you where wrong I just mentioned that pump bleeding has to been done right and a vac-u-lite is the easiest/safest/and smartest way to do it. About flipping the seals, that happens when u push the pedal to far down, no matter if done slow or fast. It happens from the quick release in pressure when the bleeder is opened. I can get you the text book description but really don't feel like looking through all my books.
As far as sucking crap back into the system, I've been doing this stuff a long time myself. Never, ever once I have seen the fluid sucked back into the system. Maybe it's because of the way I do it, which is just an aprox 18" vinyl tube from the bleeder valve to a mason jar (so I can see any air or crap) along with the standard pump three or so times/crack bleeder/close method. Oh wait...that's how most do it! Anyway, I don't know what you've done differently to see this, but I find it strange and a poor arguement for requiring a special tool. I've never, ever, ever, ever needed to use one.
BTW, never use contaminated fluid in the catch can? Well, that's contradictory in itself. What's going in the catch can is contaminated. Do you suggest dumping the can everytime old fluid is pumped out? I use old fluid in my mason jar. Never a problem.....unless I spill all over my self while under the truck. Now, that's a problem.
#31
Registered User
I agree with not pushing the pedel all the way down. It's just a safe thing to do. But, before I even knew about not doing that, I did that.......gently. I never hurt anything, either.
As far as sucking crap back into the system, I've been doing this stuff a long time myself. Never, ever once I have seen the fluid sucked back into the system. Maybe it's because of the way I do it, which is just an aprox 18" vinyl tube from the bleeder valve to a mason jar (so I can see any air or crap) along with the standard pump three or so times/crack bleeder/close method. Oh wait...that's how most do it! Anyway, I don't know what you've done differently to see this, but I find it strange and a poor arguement for requiring a special tool. I've never, ever, ever, ever needed to use one.
BTW, never use contaminated fluid in the catch can? Well, that's contradictory in itself. What's going in the catch can is contaminated. Do you suggest dumping the can everytime old fluid is pumped out? I use old fluid in my mason jar. Never a problem.....unless I spill all over my self while under the truck. Now, that's a problem.
As far as sucking crap back into the system, I've been doing this stuff a long time myself. Never, ever once I have seen the fluid sucked back into the system. Maybe it's because of the way I do it, which is just an aprox 18" vinyl tube from the bleeder valve to a mason jar (so I can see any air or crap) along with the standard pump three or so times/crack bleeder/close method. Oh wait...that's how most do it! Anyway, I don't know what you've done differently to see this, but I find it strange and a poor arguement for requiring a special tool. I've never, ever, ever, ever needed to use one.
BTW, never use contaminated fluid in the catch can? Well, that's contradictory in itself. What's going in the catch can is contaminated. Do you suggest dumping the can everytime old fluid is pumped out? I use old fluid in my mason jar. Never a problem.....unless I spill all over my self while under the truck. Now, that's a problem.
#32
Registered User
If dirty fluid does *somehow* make it back into the system via bleeding, this means that you screwed up on the bleeding process, and did not close the bleeder while on a downward stroke.
Regardless, the next bleed pump would pump out any irregularities that would have crept up your bleeder tube.
I usually use small bleeder tubes, no more than 1', and even if something goes wrong, I have never seen contaminated fluid travel the 1' distance and make it all the way back into the break system. My GF has helped me with bleeding, and even with her pumping the brake/clutch she couldn't mess it up bad enough to allow contaminated fluid to get into the system.
You make bleeding sound like its rocket science. and FYI air bubbles rise, meaning air will get into the system before contaminated fluid will, and if you're bleeding the proper way, you DONT let that happen.
and its murphy's but i can't spell either
Regardless, the next bleed pump would pump out any irregularities that would have crept up your bleeder tube.
I usually use small bleeder tubes, no more than 1', and even if something goes wrong, I have never seen contaminated fluid travel the 1' distance and make it all the way back into the break system. My GF has helped me with bleeding, and even with her pumping the brake/clutch she couldn't mess it up bad enough to allow contaminated fluid to get into the system.
You make bleeding sound like its rocket science. and FYI air bubbles rise, meaning air will get into the system before contaminated fluid will, and if you're bleeding the proper way, you DONT let that happen.
and its murphy's but i can't spell either
Last edited by dropzone; 06-16-2010 at 05:46 PM. Reason: no 'f's please
#33
I swapped out a whole clutch system from one vehicle to another and all I had to do was add some fluid, pump the clutch and bleed the slave. It's so easy even DeathCougar couldn't screw it up.
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: hubert nc
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
u never know you could have a bad master cly. or slave even if its new..
i dont care what anyone one says you will never bleed the air out of your clutch you use a vacum, or hand vacum, my suggestion is to go to harbor freight tools and pick up a mighty vacum brake/clutch bleeder.
if you dont vacum that clutch you will be pumping the pedal, until jeuss comes back.. and none or very little results each time
i dont care what anyone one says you will never bleed the air out of your clutch you use a vacum, or hand vacum, my suggestion is to go to harbor freight tools and pick up a mighty vacum brake/clutch bleeder.
if you dont vacum that clutch you will be pumping the pedal, until jeuss comes back.. and none or very little results each time
#35
Registered User
u never know you could have a bad master cly. or slave even if its new..
i dont care what anyone one says you will never bleed the air out of your clutch you use a vacum, or hand vacum, my suggestion is to go to harbor freight tools and pick up a mighty vacum brake/clutch bleeder.
if you dont vacum that clutch you will be pumping the pedal, until jeuss comes back.. and none or very little results each time
i dont care what anyone one says you will never bleed the air out of your clutch you use a vacum, or hand vacum, my suggestion is to go to harbor freight tools and pick up a mighty vacum brake/clutch bleeder.
if you dont vacum that clutch you will be pumping the pedal, until jeuss comes back.. and none or very little results each time
#36
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: hubert nc
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i know how difficult that clutch can be.. i dropped my whole tranny on the side of i95 once in my 82 camo yota nothing like dropping the tranny changing the clutch, out completly and changing out the slave and mastet cly.. and vigrously trying to bleed out the clutch that just wont happen with out a vacum.. i was able. to build enough pressure to get it into 3rd gear with a chattery start.. and limp a few miles home... and just finshed up the rest of the work.. bleeding out the clutch.. i guess iam just a cheap ass for not having it towed home or just renting a dolly and have towed for less than a tow truck.. but.. hey when u got the part store within walking distance and a few thumbs for rides.. all is good.. iam just lucky no one bothered to steal my 3 ton jack and jack stands and my tool bag, while i was getting my parts that afternoon.. if i know one thing always have a a-drive its good help when your pulling out your tranny when cars a whipping by around 65-70 mph.. on I95
#37
Registered User
i know how difficult that clutch can be.. i dropped my whole tranny on the side of i95 once in my 82 camo yota nothing like dropping the tranny changing the clutch, out completly and changing out the slave and mastet cly.. and vigrously trying to bleed out the clutch that just wont happen with out a vacum.. i was able. to build enough pressure to get it into 3rd gear with a chattery start.. and limp a few miles home... and just finshed up the rest of the work.. bleeding out the clutch.. i guess iam just a cheap ass for not having it towed home or just renting a dolly and have towed for less than a tow truck.. but.. hey when u got the part store within walking distance and a few thumbs for rides.. all is good.. iam just lucky no one bothered to steal my 3 ton jack and jack stands and my tool bag, while i was getting my parts that afternoon.. if i know one thing always have a a-drive its good help when your pulling out your tranny when cars a whipping by around 65-70 miles per hour.. on I95
#39
i couldn't get my new brake mc to bench bleed
seemed too weird
then i realized !
when i let the piston spring back after pushing it in,
air was being sucked back into the cylinder FROM THE INTERNAL BYPASS
there is such a passage as i proved once when my brakes locked up while driving cuz it clogged
(every use of brake pedal caused more pressure, but letting off pedal did not release pressure)
the brakes smoked in my driveway like they were on fire for several minutes !!!
while i just watched helplessly
the cure is:
push the piston (rod) down (into cylinder) ALL THE WAY
now
PLUG the fluid outlet (going to slave in this case) with your finger
AND THEN let the piston back out of the cylinder
which draws fluid into the internal bypass
a couple strokes and it's done as i remember
the master cylinder absolutely would not bleed without this extra step
!!!!
it was just sucking air back into the cylinder every time the piston pulled back out of it
obvious logic
but since the passage the air was hiding in was not visible, i never woulda figured it out
i saw this method in the fsm as i remember
and that vertical clutch line can be problematic too
when i bleed my brakes it sometimes takes 2 or 3 times all around all 5 brake nipples to get all the air out
cuz the air backs up in the lines as one nipple is bled at a time
!!!
and if you think you won't loose brakes if a line leaks, cuz the front and back are separated in the reservoir, and therefor redundant
FORGET IT !!!!!!
once one side goes pressureless, you got no brakes at all
and it is super frightening
not to mention dangerous/deadly
i've never understood how they could possibly allow such a thing
disavow
deny
'a whale broke off the wellhead, mr president
probly that one floating belly up over there ====>'
(with the black lungs)
seemed too weird
then i realized !
when i let the piston spring back after pushing it in,
air was being sucked back into the cylinder FROM THE INTERNAL BYPASS
there is such a passage as i proved once when my brakes locked up while driving cuz it clogged
(every use of brake pedal caused more pressure, but letting off pedal did not release pressure)
the brakes smoked in my driveway like they were on fire for several minutes !!!
while i just watched helplessly
the cure is:
push the piston (rod) down (into cylinder) ALL THE WAY
now
PLUG the fluid outlet (going to slave in this case) with your finger
AND THEN let the piston back out of the cylinder
which draws fluid into the internal bypass
a couple strokes and it's done as i remember
the master cylinder absolutely would not bleed without this extra step
!!!!
it was just sucking air back into the cylinder every time the piston pulled back out of it
obvious logic
but since the passage the air was hiding in was not visible, i never woulda figured it out
i saw this method in the fsm as i remember
and that vertical clutch line can be problematic too
when i bleed my brakes it sometimes takes 2 or 3 times all around all 5 brake nipples to get all the air out
cuz the air backs up in the lines as one nipple is bled at a time
!!!
and if you think you won't loose brakes if a line leaks, cuz the front and back are separated in the reservoir, and therefor redundant
FORGET IT !!!!!!
once one side goes pressureless, you got no brakes at all
and it is super frightening
not to mention dangerous/deadly
i've never understood how they could possibly allow such a thing
disavow
deny
'a whale broke off the wellhead, mr president
probly that one floating belly up over there ====>'
(with the black lungs)
#40
Registered User
u never know you could have a bad master cly. or slave even if its new..
i dont care what anyone one says you will never bleed the air out of your clutch you use a vacum, or hand vacum, my suggestion is to go to harbor freight tools and pick up a mighty vacum brake/clutch bleeder.
if you dont vacum that clutch you will be pumping the pedal, until jeuss comes back.. and none or very little results each time
i dont care what anyone one says you will never bleed the air out of your clutch you use a vacum, or hand vacum, my suggestion is to go to harbor freight tools and pick up a mighty vacum brake/clutch bleeder.
if you dont vacum that clutch you will be pumping the pedal, until jeuss comes back.. and none or very little results each time