So I have been working on bring this truck back to life. It has been sitting up for the last 8 years. When I got it it had no transmission. I was able to get that replaced with one from a wrecked 4runner I bought.

Its running better than when I first start working on it, but I still have a few problems I cant get sorted out.

Motor is the 3.0 V6

1. When the motor is cold, it a little tough to crank. It will take 2 or 3 turns of the key to get it going. Once you it has started. It will start right back up with out a problem. Once it sits for a few hours, it become tough to crank again.
2. When the motor is cold, it has surges at idle, It will slowly stop after about 5 mins of idle, or it will quit once I start driving it.
3. Once the truck is warmed up to temp, it seem to lose a little power and has a little "pinging" to it under load. It sounds like a couple BBs in a tin can.

The only code that I am getting is because the spedo doesn't work, also while driving, the O/D off light flashes.

Here is what I have done so far.
- New Injectors
-New air filter
-New Fuel filter
-Fuel pressure is within spec
-New Plugs, Wires, cap, button
-New MAF
-Replaced Coolant temp sensor (old one was broke off at the connector)
-Replaced the TPS
-Bleed the coolant
-Check the cold start injector with a voltage meter, it was good.
-Oil was changed when the transmission was put in. I just changed it again this weekend after less that 100 miles (because it sat up so long) No signs of water in the oil.
-I know the Head gasket was replaced prior to the transmission going out.

I am sure I am forgetting something. Any help pointing me in the right direction to get her running right would be greatly appreciated.

 

Small video of it surging.

 

TTT. Not sure why my video didn't post.

 

Could it possibly be the knock sensor, or it's pigtail?
How about the O2 sensor?
Both can be checked with an ohm meter.

Just a thought, I get so few.
Pat☺

 

I have not check those two. Thought about just replacing the O2. I will check them tonight and report back. Thanks!

 

What do you mean by "tough to crank"? Do you mean:
- It cranks and cranks 10's of seconds but doesn't fire?
- You turn the key and the engine's not rotating?
- You turn the key and the starter's not engaging?
- It cranks really slow when cold, but then faster (normal) when warm?
- Something else?

It'll help us debug your issue if we understand what the cranking experience is like, and if it "tries" to fire, or just rotates with no inkling of life.

 

It cranks and cranks but wont fire up. Start is turning and it is trying, it just take holding the key for about 5-10 seconds. Once it fires up, it will crank fine if you turn it off and then back on. But once it has sat for several hours, its back to being hard to crank up.

Sorry hopefully that makes more sense.

 

Sounds like your fuel is " bleeding off "
have someone crank it for you and shoot a little starter fluid and see if it bust off right away... then you'll know it's a fuel problem or not.
cold start injector bad?

 

Hi:
That symptom sure sounds like the cold start injector isn't working.
Take the CSI out of the manifold, and put it in a small container.
Crank the engine with the CSI still hooked up electrically.
See if you get any thing at all in the container.
That might point you in the right direction.
Art.

 

Another possibility I thought of, and I get so few thoughts any more, is that the fuel system pressure just leaked down. The fuel pressure dropped down to nothing over time. It happens. Some trucks faster than others. It has to do with the one way valve in the fuel pump.
You can try turning the key to start, without pushing in the clutch, or using the Clutch Start Cancel Switch. Listen to the whine of the fuel pump run, and when the pitch drops, then push the clutch in, or press the switch. It should fire up pretty quick after that. IF that's the situation.

Good luck!
Pat☺