Heater Problem 22re no heat
#1
Heater Problem 22re no heat
hello everyone,
i have a 92 toyota pickup with a just rebuilt 22re.
The Problem: is i have no hot air blowing from the vents with the switch on high, just luke warm air.
Checked Already:
control valve works
heater lines are both hot
burped the system 3 times
engine temp is good
thermostat is good
if anyone has any input on whats wrong it would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
i have a 92 toyota pickup with a just rebuilt 22re.
The Problem: is i have no hot air blowing from the vents with the switch on high, just luke warm air.
Checked Already:
control valve works
heater lines are both hot
burped the system 3 times
engine temp is good
thermostat is good
if anyone has any input on whats wrong it would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
#2
up under the passenger side dash there are control wires for the doors in your heater. maybe the one for hot cold air is stuck halfway, happened to me, pulled the cable and the door shut with only hot air blowing. then in the summer pull the cable back the other way for cold air. pita but it works .
#5
So I checked the door...it works ...still is blowing Luke warm air....
Anyone else know what's could be wrong?
any help would be great....I live In Wisconsin and its getting cold and I need it fixed ASAP
Thanks again
Anyone else know what's could be wrong?
any help would be great....I live In Wisconsin and its getting cold and I need it fixed ASAP
Thanks again
#7
I will try the back flush too. My '86 4X is doing the same thing. Really hot water both sides of the valve so the valve is working and flapper doors work too, but no hot air. And the return water hose is not hot. The core has to be plugged up.
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#8
I'll add myself to this list with similar lack of heat. I know it's not the thermostat just changed that.
But the heater core is 31 years old (probably) and we don't expect radiators to last that long so...
But the heater core is 31 years old (probably) and we don't expect radiators to last that long so...
#10
Heater core needs to pass air as well as water
#11
Ok! It was the heater core that was plugged up. I took off the heater hoses and stuck some garden hose ends in them (5/8" male and female) and hooked up the garden hose so the water wouldn't blow all over the engine bay and back flushed it. (Remember to have your heater valve turned to open) All kinds of black greasy crud (glycerin) went all over my driveway. But hey!!! The heater works great now and will roast yer butt off. It works best if you have one of them on/off valve adapters right at the return outlet so you can control water flow right in front of you instead of having to run to the hose spigot. I also left the pressure side of the garden hose connected to the return heater hose while reconnecting the heater supply hose. after connecting the supply, I removed the radiator cap and ran a bit of water back through the engine to remove any air bubbles that may have gotten into the system. Not too much though, because you don't want to degrade your anti-freeze.
#13
I’ve about given up on a replacement core. They are either the wrong dimensions or lines won’t mate to core.
Over the years I’ve back flushed, flushed, soaked in acid... Tomorrow i’ll take it to a radiator repair shop and with luck they can fix it.
Over the years I’ve back flushed, flushed, soaked in acid... Tomorrow i’ll take it to a radiator repair shop and with luck they can fix it.
#14
Always a good idea to back flush the heater core. I started making it a routine part of my cooling system flush rinse phase. Like 4RunnerTexas, I also connected the garden hose / squeezed radiator hoses various ways to force rinse water to flow opposite the normal coolant flow.
I also do the "heavy-duty flush" as described on container of Prestone flushing solution. Filled system with flushing solution, went on road trip and rinsed and re-filled with coolant upon my return.
Both of the above are additional work but well worth it.
The grille on the cowl is poor design. It let's thin / slender leaves / debris in, then those get trapped at the drain. I plan to install plastic gutter screen (Amerimax brand from Home Depot, attached) right below the grille.
I also do the "heavy-duty flush" as described on container of Prestone flushing solution. Filled system with flushing solution, went on road trip and rinsed and re-filled with coolant upon my return.
Both of the above are additional work but well worth it.
The grille on the cowl is poor design. It let's thin / slender leaves / debris in, then those get trapped at the drain. I plan to install plastic gutter screen (Amerimax brand from Home Depot, attached) right below the grille.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Dec 27, 2017 at 09:16 AM.
#15
Just curious what you guys do with all your "flushed" antifreeze. I am not the greenest guy in Massachusetts but am trying to be more environmentally friendly and my local O'reillys here told me they don't take back old antifreeze and i am not about to dump it on my driveway.
#16
Antifreeze / Coolant Disposal
Each county should have guidelines AND RESOURCES for proper disposal of coolant. San Diego County for example has guidelines (here), BUT (a resounding BUT) lists very few and far places that take used antifreeze. Does it really expect people to drive over an hour (round-trip) to properly dispose of coolant?
So I guess we do what we think is best, given our resources and information we have: Could be toxic but bio-degradable.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Dec 27, 2017 at 09:41 AM.
#17
I read on disposal of antifreeze if no local recycling available most water treats plants can clean it outing treatment process. Just not large quantities. If you’re on septic that does cause a problem.
#18
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