Heater.
#1
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Heater.
MY heaters been acting funny, well not really funny, but I let my truck warm up this morning for like 10-15 minutes and the heater wasn't warm, it was like 25 degrees out, and my heater sucks, it takes FOR EVER to blow WARM air, whatcha think is wrong? It used to work fine.. Now it don't..
#5
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Put a new pressure cap and tstat in it, and make sure the water is topped off and burped.
Once you're sure all of that is ok I'd worry about the heater core. New cap and tstat is like $20-25.
Once you're sure all of that is ok I'd worry about the heater core. New cap and tstat is like $20-25.
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If I use more than a 50-50 mix of antifreeze/water in my 22RE, it never warms up. Bad for the heating and probably not so good for the gas mileage in a hot-blooded, fuel injected engine.
If I run less antifreeze/coolant, it will run a little hotter. The thermostat seems to go bad every couple years as well and needs to be replaced or it will be tough running in cold weather.
If I run less antifreeze/coolant, it will run a little hotter. The thermostat seems to go bad every couple years as well and needs to be replaced or it will be tough running in cold weather.
#7
put your hand on both heater core hoses. is one hot and the other cold? if so flush it out. or the thermostat is stuck open. make sure the upper radiator hose gets HOT after running for awhile.and if you have a heater control valve make sure its opening with the cable
Last edited by turyota90; 10-30-2008 at 05:42 AM.
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#8
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Truck don't leak nothin, heater cables work, new T-stat put in 6 months ago, for some reason I think my coolant needs to be burped, I can do it a million times, but it always gurgles and makes noise when its cold and I use my heater, it takes a long time for the heater to get warm, I'll have it checked out today, how much for a heater core flush? I'd prefer the DIY method if there is one.
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I have this same problem, however, mine is only when its parked. As long as its something like cool outside, and my truck isn't moving, it won't warm up, it has to be in motion, or under stress.
#10
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if you just wanna flush it then
1- drain coolant
2- remove both heater core hoses
3- take garden hose to one side flush it though untill clean water comes out
4-take hose to other heater core line and do it again
5-repeat a few times untill it flows out clean
6-put back together
7-burp coolant and drive
ok is this better guys?
1- drain coolant
2- remove both heater core hoses
3- take garden hose to one side flush it though untill clean water comes out
4-take hose to other heater core line and do it again
5-repeat a few times untill it flows out clean
6-put back together
7-burp coolant and drive
ok is this better guys?
Last edited by just a 22re; 10-30-2008 at 07:22 PM.
#16
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A few things to check,
I burped the air bubble out of mine by letting the truck heat up and leaving the radiator cap off, it came out with a little gush, topped off the radiator, now, what I found, my cable inside the dash that opens and closes the flap for hot/cold air was off the connector rod, when I re-attached the cable and opened the flap, I have hot air now....
If that didnt work, take the two heater hoses off that go through your firewall that have a small valve in between them, use a garden hose and spray the water through the opening of the tube to see if water comes out the other side, do it on both sides,, if water comes out, you good there, if not, your core is clogged.....now, check that the valve lets water through when applying water through it, that valve opens for hot, and closes for cold, if you have it open and water goes through ok, your good then..if not, its stuck, change it.... I would say that the core is probably just dirty and need to be cleaned out, good luck...
I burped the air bubble out of mine by letting the truck heat up and leaving the radiator cap off, it came out with a little gush, topped off the radiator, now, what I found, my cable inside the dash that opens and closes the flap for hot/cold air was off the connector rod, when I re-attached the cable and opened the flap, I have hot air now....
If that didnt work, take the two heater hoses off that go through your firewall that have a small valve in between them, use a garden hose and spray the water through the opening of the tube to see if water comes out the other side, do it on both sides,, if water comes out, you good there, if not, your core is clogged.....now, check that the valve lets water through when applying water through it, that valve opens for hot, and closes for cold, if you have it open and water goes through ok, your good then..if not, its stuck, change it.... I would say that the core is probably just dirty and need to be cleaned out, good luck...
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Keep in mind that it's quite possible that your t-stat is stuck open. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's not faulty. IME (I run a small Audi repair shop), about 10% of new t-stats go faulty right from the get-go.
Does the temp gauge show that the truck runs in the normal temperature range, or does the truck run colder than normal these days?
Does the temp gauge show that the truck runs in the normal temperature range, or does the truck run colder than normal these days?
#19
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It runs the same as it always has, connecting cables are fine, coolant is good, t-stat is good, my overflow tank won't ever stay full it always pisses all over the ground but my radiator is always topped off, but thats cause I need a new Radiator cap, anyone think that could also be the heater problem? I need to flush my core anyways, I noticed the previous owner of my truck added a garden hose attachement into the coolant line to flush the system with.. Odd..
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