In general, LEDs require either a constant-current power supply, or just a simple ballast resistor as a side-of-the-barn attempt at constant current. It would just make no sense at all to sell a headlight assembly without those already part of the assembly, so I would assume that you can power the LEDs with 12v between those two wires.

LEDs are also polarized, and it would just be perverse to use anything other than red to plus, black to minus (ground on a Toyota).

But you don't need to scratch your head about this; just hook those two wires up to 12v (right on top of your battery). You can even try reversing the wires (red to minus ...) to see that they don't work.
I hope the halo is white, not colored. There are state laws about colors on vehicles. But you do need the switch as Napoleon says.

 

so I do have a similar problem with my aftermarket h3 headlights.

I bought a 88 single cab and it came with the "ricer led headlights". the low beams work but much to my surprise late that night after I bought it the brights don't work at all.

first thing I did was check the voltage at the plug and the ground at the plug. Voltage was sufficient and there was ground present at low beam. but on high beam on there is no ground present. sadly the Chilton book didn't help at all when it came to this. I have heard people talking about this switching ground with the Toyota headlights, could this be a issue with the h3 headlight swap and how does this switching ground work if that is true. thx

 

Does high-beam flash work?

The dimmer/combo stalk switch contact provide ground, via pin 5 to high-beam filament. Most likely the contact between pin 5 (Red-Yellow) and pin 13( White-black) is bad.
Multi-meter in volts DC mode.
Red probe on BATTERY positive.
Black probe on Pin 5 (red-yellow) of dimmer switch combo.
Turn on HIGH-Beam.
You should get 12V.
Let us know what you find.


There is absolutely nothing wrong with switched-ground.
The problem is the way Toyota wired it so that high current on ground side has to run from bulb, to cabin, to dimmer-stalk switch, back to engine compartment, to ground post on inner fender next to battery.
1) A long about 15 feet of thin wires.
2) This subjects the combo-switch contacts to high currents that eventually will kill them.

H4 Conversion harness is the essential fix.


see above.

 

I will check this out tomorrow. thanks for all of the details this is a great source of info. I also have another entire steering column complete the I can rob parts from so I will see if the stacker looks good on it.

 

so regretfully it will be a bit before I can answer the headlight issue. the HOA is bit$hing about my truck being out front and I am having to park it at my uncles. so less time to tinker after work. I will get back to this as soon as I can. thx for everyone's help.