Headlight Issues...could it be wiring?
 

It's been raining constantly for the past few days where I live...and unfortunately tonight, I hit a pretty deep puddle in a parking lot accidentally. I've definitely been through some deeper stuff before, it was only about a two and a half feet deep, but immediately after, my Runner died on me and everything electrical cut out. After a few cranks, the 4runner caught and idled like normal and everything was fine. EXCEPT that my tail lights and headlights were gone. They flickered on for a moment (5 seconds or so) and then cut out again. Everything else electrical works just fine and it idles and drives just fine. But no matter what I do, the headlights and tail lights won't turn on. There's a small amount of condensation in each headlight that's new, it just happened within the week. PLEASE HELP! I'm not sure where to even begin!

Thanks! I'll ask any questions promptly!

It's an electrical problem. There's a few things you can do first, but ultimately you'll need a multimeter. And there's just no excuse for not having one. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-90899.html

You can, obviously, check the fuses. There is a headlight relay and a fuse for each headlight in J/B 2 (under the hood) (unless you're in Canada, then all bets are off). There's a Tail fuse and relay in J/B 1 (driver's kick panel). The tail fuse also powers the instrument panel lights and front clearance lights; do those work?

No, all the fuses are intact and the fuse boxes are both bone dry. The tail lights are miraculously working again, and the dash illuminator light has been on the whole time. So, fuses are out of the equation.

Only 2 1/2 ' that hardly qualifies as a puddle .

Have you checked that your headlights still work cold water and hot lights can do some interesting things .

Time to break out the meter forsure!!!!

Whatever is going on with your wiring (only a multimeter will tell for sure), those headlamp bulbs are toast. Once powered, they may work for a day or a month, but they will just keep getting dimmer.

You have "sealed beam quartz-halogen" headlamps. In the olden days, the entire glass envelope was a single piece, just like a light bulb. But a halogen bulb requires a small, compact envelope. So there is a halogen bulb glued inside the larger envelope. The "front" glass is just glued to the reflector. As the assembly ages, that glue line deteriorates and eventually admits water.

When I replaced mine (just a little condensation), I was able to peel the front glass off without breaking anything. The two make pretty cool candy dishes! But you don't want them falling off on the road.

When you pull the headlamp bulbs, you can use your multimeter to tell if you're getting power to the socket. If you are, it's probably just a matter of putting in new bulbs. I know, you're thinking "I'll just go ahead and replace the bulbs. If that's all I need, I'll save $6 on the multimeter." False economy!

But it makes sense to some.

After all if it fixes this problem why buy a Meter that you might not need to a few hours later or the next puddle !!!:welder:

Like Scope103 is saying ^^^

Find that headlight relay. Ask someone to switch dimmer/switch/stalk between taillight only and headlights. Does the relay click?

Did you already get a multi-meter?
Got a picture of headlight connector, so we can help you probe for voltage there?

I've had the same problem recently. My battery did not have a fastener over the top. If you don't have a battery mount, that is your problem. The battery fell sideways and yanked on the green electrical connectors and broke the copper of the wires at the ends. My headlights would flicker on and off and the relay would make a buzzing sound. Also the power cut off completely a few times. Pull slightly on the wires that come out of the ends of the green connectors and if they stretch the copper inside is broken and the connector needs to be fixed.

Definitely replace your headlights, they're gone.

As for the taillights, take off the plastic housing from the body and check the connectors there. Ensure they are clean by brushing them down lightly with a wire brush.

Toyota trucks are notorious for electrical problems, especially the 80s ones. Do as I do and reinforce everything you repair, just ensure that they can still be taken apart again.

I love how the OP never really came back!!!!:welder:

Mention of a multi-meter turns people off. LoL!
Happy New Year!

have a 1994 Toyota pickup that I recently got Led headlights for. My problem is that when I plug them in it they don't work. It seems as if the ground changes when I go from low beam to high beam. The stock headlights work fine but with the leds if I play with the wiring I can only have dims or brights. Not both...has anyone ever heard of this before? I've read on other people installing these LEDs without any problems

What LED lights, brand, model?
A problem well-stated is a problem half-solved.
And u did not have any problem before? GOT VOLT METER?
And how do play with the wiring? Watched the voltages when u play?
Headlights go from low to high and back by changing ground between low beam and hi beam filaments.

They're Cree leds from eBay. Do I need a certain type of led that are made to have the ground change? Because that's the problem I have with them is that the ground changes. Or is there any way to change that? I have checked it with a volt meter and it's making the correct voltage just that it changes ground

Insufficient description.
Instructions?
Diagrams?
A problem well-stated is a problem half-solved.

I think your generation's headlight circuit is like the first-gen's, so yes, because LED's are polarized, you need a light where the common terminal is meant to be connected to positive and the negative side of filament (bulb) is to be connected to ground. The headlight circuit switches between negative sides of low and high beams.

My head hurts !!

How did we go from being under water to LED head lice ??

I can`t understand all this head light stuff I got enough to do without fixing something that works.

Consumable means never needs replaced !!

Work clamp A clamp that really is not important and can be for the most ignored !!

Short any electrical problem what so ever including open circuits :bang::bang::bang:

Lol!
 

LOL!
qwerty
asdfg

Noob trying to minimize disruption
 

I just bought a '94 pickup. Included in the sale was a set of uninstalled aftermarket headlights. I don't know the brand or model. They are the type that have a semi-circle of LEDs on either side of the main lamp.

They are still in the box they were shipped in, but there are no installation instructions or other defining documentation.

On the back of each lamp, on either side of the standard 3-pronged plug is a wire. One is black, the other is red.

I am totally mystified as to how to install them. For all I know, the extra wires are typical of Toyotas. I prefer to have an idea of what I'm getting into before taking anything apart. Especially something as important as being able to see in the dark.

Does anyone have a resource for installation instructions or any other advice? I live in a rural area where it gets very dark after sunset. Any improved illumination would be beneficial.

Thanks in advance. I hope I didn't post poorly. ;)

Sorry guys, I'm back. School got hectic, but I finally found a saturday to swing home and spend in the garage, I just never posted what I did. Turns out my old wiring had shorted out right before the back of the headlights, so I had to re-wire both headlights, and I replaced the headlight wiring harnesses as well. Everything is running smoothly! sorry for kind of dropping off the face of the earth for a while!

ok man, I spend a lot of time learning about wiring and How to use a multimeter correctly over break. So, on the back of your headlights, you should have three blades that will insert into your wiring harness for your headlights. One is a ground, one is a regular beam, and one is a high beam. they should just plug right in to the OEM wiring harness if they are the correct ones for your pickup (I think toyota used the three blade harness design all the way though 1996, so it should be the same as mine) Just plug them in and they'll work fine. As for the red and black wires coming out of the back, those are for the colored LED's encircling the headlight to give it that 'halo' effect. If you don't want to wire them up, your headlights will still work fine, you just won't have the colored LED's. However, If you want to have the colored LED's, all you have do do is simply wire them up to an auxiliary switch off the battery. Its fairly simple to do, but I won't bore you with the specifics because a lot of these old boys on here could wire it up in under an hour. If you want me to walk you through it, feel free to send me a message. Good post though!

Awesome! Welcome back, appreciate the update and your quick and correct response to poster above.
As usual, it's the wiring and the way parts ar put together that cause us problems on our trucks. The components themselves, especially the OEM ones, are very good.

CowboyGP,
As NapoleonDy2nite said above. The connector should be plug and play. Go ahead and plug it in, and let us know. Now it helps if you got a multi-meter and learn it. Best electrical diagnostic tool, next only to our senses.

The "halo" leave it un-plugged. Nothing as ugly as a Ricer Toyota truck - LOL!