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Got any more info on those Chef? The link goes to some education site. Tried searching but the only thing I really found was a company that makes hunting lights.
I'M SORRY, guys, .... my bad, ......it's not 'brighteyes', it's www.roundeyes.com , and here's the link directly to the Toyota kit..............
autopals with nice bulbs and a nice harness are your best budget friendly bet. If you HID autopals or hella ecodes you'll have a mediocre cut off and wont really blind people all that much, but you wont have the cut off, the width, the intensity, or the distribution of light that projectors give you.
^^Interesting, I have followed many of the HID threads that you and BMCEL post in about doing a proper fit.
I want to be clear that the Hella e-codes and those lame H4 pull back HID bulbs for hi/lo that I have sitting in my garage are literally NOTHING compared to the FX-R + 50w 5000k bixenon in clear lenses I just replaced the customers rig with, however if you ARE going to do HID's in conversion housings, the ecode lenses are better than any other REFLECTOR based setup that I've seen. I've never seen a reflector based HID setup hold a candle to a decent projector based setup.
Just a heads up to people who don't know this already, it is against the law to retrofit HIDs into headlights that are not designed to handle the bulb..
Ive heard its illegal to put HID's in any car where they werent factory
Usually true in every case I've heard of.
Can't have blue, can't have red, can't have "excessive glare", though in the same breath I believe 100w H4 conversions would fail a real headlight test as well.
Can't put projectors in headlights they weren't originally equipped with from the factory (meaning every real retrofit is illegal), can't just pop HIDS in reflector housings..
That being said, you'll get pulled over for having blinding glare and 10,000k smurf blue or super lame purple lights, not usually for having E55 BMW bixenon projectors in your housings.
Sorry to bring up an old thread. It's just good info...and kind of a funny read.
I'm making my own harness and trying to find an H4 housing that's not crap. The eBay links to H4 housings aren't working any more, but does the housing matter that much? I'd think the reflector makes a big difference. Also, not looking to go nuts with super expensive housings. Stuff I find on eBay are around $20-$30. Those ok? Also, I need the 5x7 housing, right?
Yeah, that's a decent, reasonably-priced one. Despite a not-so-perfect beam pattern (search this forum), combined with the harness conversion, it is way better than stock.
However, ideally, you'd want a DOT rated-n-ot EURO for use here in the U.S. Not sure if there's much difference, though.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Nov 17, 2015 at 09:20 PM.
Another question. I'm ordering all my parts for the wiring harness and I'm looking for female ceramic H4 connectors without pigtails. I have high quality wire that that I'm using and am going to crimp them myself. Thing is, I need terminals that fit my 12 AWG wire. The ones I've seen so far only go up to 14 AWG. Such as: http://www.hipoparts.com/ceramic-fem...7-round-lamps/
and http://www.cycleterminal.com/headlight-connectors.html
And these, from a link earlier on in the thread, are on back order (even though they're not ceramic but they say high heat). http://www.comagination.com/parts.htm
I did find these guys but they have pigtails. I emailed and asked if they could just supply me with the terminals and plug but I'm waiting on a reply. http://headlightplugs.com/H4.page.html
Finally, this guy sells terminals that I think I could use but I think they are only for the plastic H4 plugs. Not sure if they'd fit in a ceramic plug that I buy elsewhere. They're about 2/3rds of the way down. The .312" female locking terminal. http://www.davebarton.com/blackvinyl.html
Anyone know of a vendor that sells ceramic H4 plugs with terminals for 12 AWG wire? If not I'll just get the plastic plug and terminals from the separate vendors in the links above. But I'd rather not be limited in what wattage I can run by the type of connector I get. Kinda want to go all out because the ceramic aren't much more expensive.
I bought these housings (and LED bulbs) off eBay for $105. And I'm not happy with them. The "city lights" suck. They fall out way too easy. Not to mention that I don't need the stupid city lights feature. And the housings look sorta foggy now that they're installed. The picture looks great though! The seller refunded some of my money. Still, next time I'd spend more and probably just purchase from a local retailer to get a decent product.
But at least I don't have the old sealed beams anymore. Replacing a sealed beam in an old Toyota pickup is an education wrapped in a headache. And nobody told me that when you switch to LED bulbs you can't use the rubber waterproof seal on the back any longer. LED bulbs are far too bulky to allow it.
Last edited by Brock Lee; Nov 19, 2015 at 08:21 AM.
I bought these housings off eBay for $105. And I'm not happy with them. The "city lights" suck. They fall out way too easy. Not to mention that I don't need the stupid city lights feature. And the housings look sorta foggy now that they're installed. The picture looks great though! The seller refunded some of my money. Still, next time I'd spend more and probably just purchase from a local retailer to get a decent product.
But at least I don't have the old sealed beams anymore. Replacing a sealed beam in an old Toyota pickup is an education wrapped in a headache. And nobody told me that when you switch to LED bulbs you can't use the rubber waterproof seal on the back any longer. LED bulbs are far too bulky to allow it.
I was looking at these on eBay. Glad I didn't go for them! I haven't replaced the unit yet, but it really doesn't seem hard. Unless you mean getting the bulb out of the sealed beam to reuse the housing?
I haven't replaced the unit yet, but it really doesn't seem hard. Unless you mean getting the bulb out of the sealed beam to reuse the housing?
If you still have the old sealed beam headlights you have to remove the entire housing. You probably already know that. The bulb and housing are one. And removing/replacing the housing is where the headache comes in. Toyota certainly "sealed" the headlights into the grill. The only way I could do it was to bend the bezel that's around the headlight after removing a couple screws. Then pop the new housings in place and bend the bezel back into place. It's not the way the factory would say to do it, but I wasn't about to remove my entire grill to replace the housings.
I'm assuming your truck is 86-95, of course. Mine's a 94.
If you still have the old sealed beam headlights you have to remove the entire housing. You probably already know that. The bulb and housing are one. And removing/replacing the housing is where the headache comes in. Toyota certainly "sealed" the headlights into the grill. The only way I could do it was to bend the bezel that's around the headlight after removing a couple screws. Then pop the new housings in place and bend the bezel back into place. It's not the way the factory would say to do it, but I wasn't about to remove my entire grill to replace the housings.
I'm assuming your truck is 86-95, of course. Mine's a 94.
Ohh, ok I see what you're saying. Yeah, mine's a '94 too, haha. Looks like I'll have the Advil ready. Thanks for the forewarning.
Those Cheap LED ones are no good. If you dont want to spend much, try conversion housing from Autopals, Roundeyes.com, or Hella and pick you own bulbs. If u choose to use higher than normal wattage (Not street-legal), make sure to do harness conversion first.
Ultimately, I'll get Trucklites LED for mine.
Feb 11, 2012 | 09:40 AM
