Jipopotamo

Ok guys. I'll try to keep this quick and quiet. This december two close friends and myself will be undertaking an expedition to the tip of South America leaving from Austin, TX.
We have decided on and purchased a 1987 Toyota 4Runner. It runs without any major mechanical defects and truly only shows the wear and tear you'd expect with 223,000 miles on it.

Now imagine you just bought this same vehicle. What areas are you immediately invested in? Potential engine rebuild? Suspension Overhaul? Brake kit? Electrical system? Things like that.

There is nothing out of character here. I am truly calling on the amassed knowledge of so many Toyota enthusiasts. I can and will give any details or specifics needed and look forward to beginning a great depth of information.

Anyone particularly interested can check out our trip logs and pictures of the vehicle through www.twentyfirstcenturynomads.com

Thanks so much guys. Take care and have a good one!

Cale Elliott

iamsuperbleeder

4cyl or v6? automatic of manual?


everything other than motor, just check the norm:

- wheel bearings (maybe repack them)
- tie-rod ends and ball joints (grease if needed; replace if bad)
- suspention bushings (control arms, shackle and spring mounts, and shock mounts; firm and not allowing play)
- U-joints (grease if needed; replace if bad)
- drive-train fluids (rear diff, transmission, transfer case, front diff; check level, consistancy, and change if discolored and/or obviously old and worn)
- exterior lighting (check and replace if needed the headlights and taillights)
- tires (tread depth, and general condition; ie not dry-rotted and/or leaking)
- wipers (work and the blades are in good shape)
- brakes (pull the front wheels off and take a look at the pads and discs; pull the rear tires and drums off and take a look at the rear shoes; also, check the brake fluid, as it deteriorates over the years and absorbs moisture, and can make the pedal spongey and lead to less braking power)


That's about all of the MAJOR things I can think of without going into detail about the motor, but that's a whole other list once you let us know what's under that hood







OH, and welcome to YotaTech by the way!

Jipopotamo

thanks for such a quick response.

It has the 4 cyl matched to the 5spd manual tranny. All gears shift fine, t-case works fine, everything pushes and pulls.
There is a distinctive oil leak from the front of the engine and I'm leaning towards the front main seal leaking. About 223,000 miles on her. If its been sitting for awhile, it usually takes a few seconds of cranking til it fires up. Methinks a weakening fuel pump or a leak at the injectors/filter/etc?

I did a general tune up.
Replaced the radiator and thermostat
New plugs and wires, cap and rotor, MSD Blaster 2 coil
Oil change with new air, oil, and fuel filter
31" 10.50 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armours- brand new

Wanted all that done ASAP to at least get a stable platform. Drives without issue. Haven't got accurate mileage numbers yet but they are significantly better now after that tune-up opposed to when we first purchased her.

Lemme know whatever else is on your mind and I'll give ya as applicable of a situation as possible. I am currently losing sleep over what route to go regarding the suspension. We don't need a trophy truck. We need something bulletproof. We need it to be able to handle the extensive 20k-40k miles of mexico, central and south america. I feel confident in my skills regarding any projects. I am just lacking on the ins and outs, the experience regarding this design of truck in particular.

Thanks again!

Cale

iamsuperbleeder

ah okay, that's good, cause the 4cyl is all I mess with, lol


good news about the front main leaing is that's it's actually really easy to replace that guy. remove the front crank pulley (which is the hardest part; breaking that bolt free from over 100ft/lbs of torque, seated nicely over 220,000 miles, lol), then you can remove the seal right from the oil pump there, tap the new one in, apply a little oil to the seal and to the spot on the crank pulley that rides on the seal, then bolt the pulley back on and torque to spec


the general tune-up, as well as the needed immediate maintanence, are the best first steps you can take with a new-to-you used vehicle I consider it part of the buying price, lol


I also should have specified, is this a fuel injected 22re, or a cab'ed 22r? I'm assuming injected since you mentioned the injectors, which I just noticed, lol

And about that hard to start issue, it's not uncommon in the 22re for the cold start injector located on the upper plentum (a 5th fuel injector that injects fuel into the intake to aid in starting when the motor is cold) to go bad and not work properly. 9 times outta 10 they just stick open and cause a bad rich running condition, but it's possible for it to fail and not fire anymore, or the circut and/or engine temp sensor for it is faulty.

JeepRecoveryINC.

Like "iamsuperbleeder" said check all of that stuff out and when you leave make sure you have extra parts and tools with you so that you can make repairs as needed. Before leaving make sure you get hands on with most of the systems on the truck before you start your trip. If you need any hands on help I live in Port Arthur so if you need a hand with anything just let me know as long as I can get away from the office I can head over that way and give you a hand.

JeepRecoveryINC.

Also don't forget to drive the "Death Road" in Bolivia I did it once and it was a blast I can't wait to do it again.

iamsuperbleeder

ah yes, I almost want to drive all the way there just to travel "Death Road"; that sounds SO appealing, lol

JeepRecoveryINC.

Oh yea, I just checked out your link and I think you need a winch and maybe some kind of selectable locker in the rear.

Jipopotamo

Cool deal. Solid info so far guys. I actually sprained the HECK outta my ankle this past tuesday, so I have been on bedrest and have taken the opportunity to try and get as many of these questions answered as possible.

It is in fact EFI and I'll look into checking on the cold start injector.

Also, how reliable are the self-diagnosis of these engines? My light is on and I know I can do the whole "flash the codes at me" trick. I tend to trust ecu's unless proven otherwise. Can I believe this guy pretty much?

Also, after tons of reading and sifting, I am looking at potentially going with the BJ spacers, new sets of leafs out back and nice shocks all the way around to try and achieve somewhere between 1-2". Not too worried about massive clearance and lift as much as a completely fresh, tough, and functional system. Any thoughts or experience regarding this?

Electrical system is going to be a fun one too. I am a huge fan of automotive electrical and idealistically was letting myself dream of a two-battery, solar aided base system. Any warnings/suggestions/self-ambitions?

I can talk yalls heads off if you haven't noticed yet. Thanks again guys.

Cale

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

PS 3.0 came out in 88 Bleeder Dude.

JeepRecoveryINC.

Come on wabbit that's an honest mistake plus you have to ask with those few unbelievers who would love to get rid of the bullet proof 22re for the extra hp from the 3.0

olharleyman

I would add a rear tire rack and spare with Jerry can space for extra gas with stabil in case , a roof rack of some sort with shovel/s , Hi Jack , an ax or two another spare tire you never know , some kind of radio communication 2 meter 10 meter whatever so in an emergency you can get help , some kind of self protection Mexico is not the safest place for AMERICANS right now oil , plugs , filters basic tune up stuff again just in case and plenty of fresh water. Oh ya and lots of match's or lighters you always see people in the movie's stuck in BFE and never have a way to start a fire.

olharleyman

Now that's funny EXTRA HORSEPOWER FROM A 3.0

JeepRecoveryINC.

That is kinda funny isn't it.

iamsuperbleeder

lol, like I said, I lean more towards the 22re's like what's in my 91; I know nothing about the 3.0's accept from what I hear about the bad reputation eveyone give them with they're lack in power and head gakset issues

camo31_10.50

didnt the 3.0 have around 150hp..i would MUCH RATHER have that then this damn 22r with MAYBE 100hp...103 TOPS!..

desertcamper67

Get ready for hundreds of miles of washboard which will vibrate your teeth loose. IFS is a good thing for that.

The beauty of your truck is that there are so many parts available (in other countries too) that if you do need something, you can probably get it down there. The closer your truck is to stock the more likely you'll be able to find a replacement part in another country.

Are you taking another vehicle? Carrying spare parts? (U-joints)

I'd like to carry an extra coil/igniter on this one.

Expect anything loose to fall off down there.

Sounds like a sweet adventure.

Take some pictures of the unusual Toyota's you'll see down there.

JeepRecoveryINC.

You have lost you damn mind.
a. You should get about 115-120 out of the 22re
b. The 3.0 is not as bullet proof and of course you have th head gasket issue to contend with.
22re is the way to go.
Now back to suggestions for the trip. I don't know if it's been mentioned but due to the unfortunate location of our ECU, I would bring a spare. It's won't take up any room and normal condensation and water crossings can kill one. Speaking of water crossings buy or make a snorkel and don't forget the rear diff breather, extending the exhaust and putting it up a little higher might not be a bad idea either. I'm sure I'll think of some other stuff as the thread goes on.

Jipopotamo

this is the kinda info I've been spending hours scouring for. Thanks again guys. So I'm thinking BJ spacers and new rear leafs/shackles for bomber suspension durability and a simple and effective 1.5" functional lift?