Seems to me that the consensus is that replacing the exhaust manifolds with headers is a plus when rebuilding the 3.0. Well fellas, trust me, I'm cutting and pasteing info left and right from you guys about information on a rebuild I plan on doing this summer. I realize the header addition is primarily to help reduce the heat build up on these motors, along with some other details.

I've never been a big fan of adding headers after adding some black jacks to the 317 I rebuilt on a little '68 chevy I had back a few years ago. Keeping those dang things tighten up to the head was a pain in the butt. I figure the reason why was the fact that maybe those were some cheap headers, so here we go.

What brand of header do I need to put on my 3.0 rebuild and any other advice would sure be apprecitated.

-dave

 

I never had a problem with Blackjack Aluma-coat Headers on my Chebby 350, but I used Mr. Gasket exhaust manifold gaskets , back then. They prolly had asbestos in them. :S I also used Allen-head header bolts, no studs. They seemed to clamp a little better . Dunno why. I also had the entire exhaust system welded together , instead of clamps. Mebbe that allowed for a little less flex and, therefore, less stress on the header bolts.

Mike in AR

 

I put the Downey Ceramic headers on when I rebuilt my 3.0 this past December. Have had good luck with them so far. I did not go cheap. I had the shop build a custom 2.5" "Y" pipe and flanged the headers and the new CAT. It cost some extra in the front but has been good for the past 12,000 miles on the new motor.

If you go with headers be sure to move wiring and or wrap the header in areas of close proximity to wires, fuel lines, brake lines, clutch slave cylinder.

I rebuilt my 3.0 because it was dead and I needed a motor in it quick for a trip out west. If I had the time in December I would have done the 3.4 engine swap. I have since bought a 3.4 motor and am getting ready to make the swap this summer. Just something to think about.

 

I swear by the NWOR headers on my '89, but i would have them ceramic coated first if I had it to do all over again. The heat has caused starter problems in warm weather, but other than that, I love them

 

Yeah and the problem that you have to deal with NWOR. Always a risky venture.

 

Ive got both downey and NWOR. the new thorley ones are downey clones so its not like those are totally diffrent choice for a design.

i feel the NWOR are better constructed, and have a better design, but the price reflects that. (ive hand no problems dealing with NWOR)

I used the stock studs on both sets. If your not pulling the engine durring the time of the install good luck! its a SERIOUS pain in the a$$ to install either set with the motor mounted.

 

Yeah not yet. Keep on dealing with them and find out the hard way like I did. Never in my life have I dealt with bigger a-holes.

 

I too run the nwors...my dad has a set on his 4 runner as well. Good fit and look to be of high quality. No leaks I just bolted em up and have been going for close to 20k without retightening them or anything