I ordered the timing kit, oil pump, water pump and some spare gaskets because I think I hear the timing chain rattling. I'm at 160k miles on my 1987 22r.
I didn't want to pull the head because of the extra costs but what do you guys think?
If I take off the head do I have to have it resurfaced? I know about checking with a straight edge but I'm worried I'll have to after finding something.

I'd like arp bolts/studs but where should I get new regular head bolts?
I don't have any issues with my truck's engine besides the chain noise.

 

I feel like I'm asking too many questions but I'm sure someone will find my threads useful when they need the same info

 

If you pull the head you should have it disassembled, resurfaced, cleaned, and inspected. There are many reasons to do this and it will probably cost you about $200.

ARP head studs are really not needed but are good insurance if you are worried about head gasket failure.

If there is nothing wrong with the head gasket and your compression and vac are good I would not pull the head. Also I would not touch the head bolts or spend the money on ARP studs until I was ready to go all the way and do a full head job. Just my 2 cents

 

I think you are right. I won't touch the head unti I have to then I'll go all the way

 

one note

I SPECIFICALLY recall when pulling my head, that when the block is still in the truck, that there is NO WAY I could get the head off w/o pulling the rear bolts completely out.(actually all the bolts)

This means, that if you are using studs, that you have to insert the studs after the head is on the block. You can NOT insert the studs and then settle the head on over the studs.
There is not enough room by the firewall.

If the engine is on a stand, thats a different case

 

Yeah. What cbr said. Really is a case of If it aint broke dont fix it.

 

Removing the hood gives you plenty of room to remove the head with studs .

I hope you have better luck then me I have never had good luck getting the timing cover to seal where it meets the head.

Could just be my bad luck

 

I hope I don't have that problem. Oil leak right?
I have some tubes of Toyota black fipg I've had for a while. I hope that takes care of any possible leaking.
I get my stuff Friday and I don't know how soon I'll be able to get to it. Soon I hope since I don't want to drive it with the noise up front before something happens

 

The PROPER way to remove the timing cover is to remove the head and oil pan first, but plenty of people remove just the timing cover to replace the chain and guides. The results are mixed with the worst case pretty much just being oil leaks since the head gasket and oil pan sealant aren't designed to have parts sliding during assembly. My 22RE head gasket went out at around 160,000 but plenty others last well over 200,000 without issue. It's obviously a gamble and it's your choice if you want to save a couple bucks and risk the leaks and possibility that the head gasket will go next year, or if you have the time and money to just remove the head now, and put a new gasket on.

If you do decide to pull the head, here's some tips. Don't get the ARP studs. They are a waste of money on anything that isn't seriously built. The head bolts have never been a cause for problems on stock engines. Save yourself the money getting the head checked out. You can clean, inspect, and freshen up the head at home for free. You'll need a valve spring compressor, valve stem seals, and valve grinding compound to redo the valves. Some gasoline, toothbrushes, and compressed air will get the head looking brand new. Check for cracks between the valve seats where they are closest, and between the coolant passages and the combustion chamber. If the truck didn't overheat there's likely no damage. You can't machine the head at home, but it's probably not necessary. When you put it together, buy whatever gasket set you like but make sure you buy the OEM Toyota head gasket.

 

I did a double row TC conversion w/o removing the head

It did "leak" a tiny bit afterwards.
Not more than any "average" engine, an annoyance on my "super tight super clean" engine
I also used synth oil , which creeps though the tiniest of gaps
Also - the paper gasket used with the dual row conversion cover, has the top bolt holes in the wrong spot - so I think the gasket tore when I put the bolts on the hole - which IMHO was a bigger cause of my leaks
If you have a decent paper hole punch, I suggest punching the hole in the proper spot.

FYI - I coat ALL my paper gaskets in Permatex Super 300 (its a brush on). I lay the gasket out on alum foil, brush one side, wait a few sec and then peel/flip and brush the other side and then place it on the surface to me gasket-ed
I did NOT coat the Head Gasket!!!!

I recall checking my head with a straight edge and thinking it was OK, but the machine shop made TWO passes with the milling machine (0.003" per pass if I recall).
Machine shop claimed it could take one more pass the next time around.

 

Not an issue with decking/not the head, but if you ever pull the block to do a rebuild and have the block decked you have to give them the timing cover too so they can grind an equal amount off the top of the cover. Otherwise you will fail HGs in no time from cyl #1.