clint

i am loosing coolant and i dont know where, i checked the dipstick and the oil was fine but when i removed the oil cap it had that milkshake residue inside so i am guessing that my head gasket is going any ideas? if i have to replace it is it difficult and about how long would it take and while i am there i will replace the water pump and timing chain does this sound like a good idea? do i need any special tools to do this and any other parts or gaskets to replace that should be done while i am doing this.oh to replace the timing chain can i do it with out having to remove the oil pan thank you very much and i appreciate anyone that can help me. 1986 4runner 22re 148000 km.

Elton

its not that hard http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf i would get all your parts from http://www.engnbldr.com/ may be get a cam ?

clint

thank you elton your help is greatly appreciated.i have a few more questions regarding the changing of the timing chain.the parts i am going to buy is a timing chain kit and gaskets, headgasket and head bolts, water pump and gaskets is there anything else i might be missing?do i need any kind of sealent?is it possible to do this without removing the diff and oil pan without any lift on the vehicle.do i need i crank pulley and is the pulley really hard to take off.thank you and i grateful for everyones input or who decides to reply have a nice day.

ovrrdrive

Definitely get the timing kit from engnbldr. He has the kit with the steel backed driver's side guide for not much more than you'll pay for a plastic kit.

Definitely. I used gray Permatex the first time I put it back together and had a pretty bad water leak into the oil. I asked around and got afew suggestions for the reseal, but didn't get anything definitive. I used the black Permatex this time as it says it is most resistant to oil. Hopefully I didn't screw it up this time and it will work ok.

I used the blue permatex on the water pump and bolts, and gray on the intake and throttle body.

I have a '95 4x4 truck so it may be different than yours but here goes. I didn't pull the head the first time but tried to do it the way I keep hearing about. We had a pretty bad time getting it back on and as I mentioned I had a leak and had to tear the whole thing back down again.

Lesson: pull head.

I didn't drop the front dif in my truck, but instead I unbolted the steering stablizer and swung it out of the way, and unbolted the engine mounts and jacked the engine up high enough to get the pan off. I also have a 3" body lift on my truck so this may or may not work for you.

In my pan there was a bunch of pieces of the broken plastic guide and several large metal chunks from the timing cover guide around the bottom gear where it shattered. Had I not dropped the pan and cleaned it out I would have probably ended up blowing the engine soon.

Lesson: Pull pan and clean it out. Try jacking up the engine to get clearance over the front diff.

I reused mine and it seemed like it wasn't leaking. The timing kit comes with a new front seal for the oil pump to help maintain seal integrity. Use it.

As for hard to take off I'm going to say mine wasn't but it was also off about 12k miles ago when the engine was rebuilt. I didn't use the breaker bar against the frame method for fear of breaking something. Just put the truck in gear (unless you have auto???) and use some muscle. If you have an auto you may have to do the breaker bar method to break it as the compression of the motor is no where enough back-pressure to hold it back. It is torqued to 116ft lbs so it's tight but not impossible. Can you lift 120 lbs?

As for the time needed to do the job, the service manual calls for 14.5 hours to do the chain and I think about 6 for the head. If you're handy you can probably actually do it in about 10-15 hours total for both.

First time I did it though I was still earning and figuring stuff out and also did the chain first, then the head. I didn't realize I needed a valve job until I tried to crank it after the timing job. So I had to go all the way back in and remove the head. Both jobs took me total about 30 hours of working under the hood and truck total.

This time has been much easier. Everything is clean already and I am more familiar with where everything fits. I had everything undone and apart in about 5 hours this time and expect the reassembly to go about the same if I can ever find the parts I need around here.

As the head gasket only has about 10 minutes running time on it, I just unbolted the head and am going to lift it up and exchange gaskets and retorque it. I wanted to get it out of the way of the timing cover to get a good seat, but I really don't think there will be any scraping or cleanup needed on the block or the head. I unbolted the exhaust downpipe ans a few lines and that's it. If it works the way I think it will I saved myself about 3 hours of work. We'll see...

If you just do the head, you can probably do it in 5 hours or so of labor. If you do the head and timing kit probably 15 or so. Unless you suck like I did the first time, then double those numbers.

ovrrdrive

Crap that was long... :pat:

Oh and btw, if you're doing preventative measures consider a new oil pump too.

And if your guides are broken and there is damage to the timing cover consider a new timing cover too.

ovrrdrive

And read these guides...


http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

clint

overrdrive i thank you for taking your time to write this all down for me this will help me greatly and i hope anyone else reading this thanks very much.i am not as scared to tear into this as i was before, this web site and the members here have given a vast amount of info to do this job so i am sure it will work out fine maybe just a little time consuming seeing that it is my first time.

ovrrdrive

You're welcome.

Keep in mind though that the above is just my own personal experiences and could be right or wrong. There are a bunch of people much more experienced and knowledgeable than I so don't take everything I said as gospel.

And keep in mind that I get a little long winded at times.



Good luck.

hirsche23

clint sounds like you and i are about to embark on very similar adventures,my 89 runner is diong the exact same thing and i have all the same questions as you,we should keep updating how things go and if any problems arise, let me know where you plan on buying your parts as i am only 1.5 hrs south of edm.go oilers go.

clint

hirsche23 we should definitely keep in touch i plan on doing this job in the next couple of weeks but first i am reading as much info as possible.as for the parts people here have suggested engnbldr.com but that is in the u.s.a. so it is not as practicle for myself with the exchange rate and good old canadian taxes so i have called around to few places and alot of prices very but i will let you know where i get them and i am always pass innisfail on hwy 2 to go fly fishing in rocky mountain house so if i do it first i would gladly help with what ever i can also you are right go oilers go.

ovrrdrive

Whatever you do, I highly suggest getting a set of steel-backed timing chain rails no matter what you have to do to get them.

My engine was rebuilt by a local engine shop 12k ago and my guide broke, jumped the time, and bent all 4 intake valves. I have spent about $700 so far and have done all the work by myself. At a shop it would have been a $2k repair bill.

There are several companies that sell them if you can't or don't get them from engnbldr. Look around and get a set. DOA racing sells them too but theirs are substantially more.

Look around.

clint

well i ordered the timing chain set with the steel rail and the full gasket set from engnbldr.com so it should arrive in about a week.i checked around locally and the prices were not much different including the exchange rate.but that is not the sole reason i ordered from them i wanted a product that has been used successfully and judging by the number of post about engnbldr.com i no doubt that these products will work the last thing i want is to buy a product and it be the for the wrong motor especially when you are putting it back together then you have to take it back what a pain.so with that being said i hope it works find out in a week

hirsche23

I agree with you,I think I'll order from engnbldr as well,and get the rest from toyota.So you flyfish too eh?Sounds like we may have more in common as flyfishing is one of my addictions. The runner was supposed to be my cheap fishin wagon to get me out to the ram every week,so it needs to be on the road soon.Maybe a fishin/4runner tour is in the future?GO OILERS GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

doug

i have a 1990 toyota 4runner with a 3.0 v-6 that i just did the head gaskets on and now it wont start it gets oil, gas, and spark any ideas ??

clint

doug i just finished my head gasket and timing chain but when i put everything back together i did not put one wire back on and it would not start there was spark and everything but no go so i found out on yotatech where that wire goes and it started no problem.the wire was grounded out on the intake so double check all your wires and make sure everything is hooked up in the right spot i hope this helps.

vmax84

Wow, great read here!!

vmax84

MyBlueToy

I will be tackling the HG project starting this weekend on my 86' 4Runner UT, maybe as early as Thursday. I have read a lot of great information on this site, a big thanks to the guys who have posted their handy work with pics and notes. I will try and start my own thread with pics and maybe some video.

budro

Doug: double then triple check your timing...